Aftermarket fuse to tame a bright system?

OP…I think by now it’s clear that fuses will not solve your bright system issues.

I also don’t think that breaking these cables in will completely eliminate this brightness.

Few things to resolve this -

1. All silver cables not a great idea. Try pure copper speaker cables first then go up the audio chain to replace the interconnects feeding the amp first. 
2. Room acoustics. Thick rug, treating first reflections if possible 

Address the items in the signal path first if room acoustics is not feasible to tackle. 
 

Reading thru this thread I find it entertaining that after introducing pure silver ICs and speaker cables, all in a signal path, that made the system bright, there are those who believe a fuse that’s not in a signal path can help reverse the effect. 
Analogy to this will be if you replaced the wheels on your car with super low profile wheel/tire combo and the ride became a lot rougher, you’d be hoping to smooth that out by replacing an air filter. 

Only way you can tame a bright system with fuses is if you wrap the fuses in cotton balls and insert them into your ears. Common guys…

@gavin1977 well yeah if you send garbage into the amp nothing will stop it from passing it on to the speakers. If the amp is transparent enough that is.

Power cables make a difference for sure. Driving factors are gauge, quality of conductor material, different dielectric, different lengths, connector material and plating, shielding…all make a difference to various degree and that depends on how good the power supply design is in the component. Power cables will also act as filters to reject noise going into the power supply and into the ac line.
The fuse on the other hand is a 1” long safety device with a hair thin piece of wire that melts when the amperage criteria is exceeded. Unless the caps are made out of 24k gold connected with unicorn pubes, the difference in sound quality this device can make is negligible at best and will never offset the shortcomings in a signal chain. I tried fuses long time ago and learned my lesson.
When it comes to power cords and signal cables I use the best I can afford.

Good luck!

@bolong I don’t doubt Paul heard a difference with an expensive fuse. I heard it too when I tried it in my amp about 15 years ago.

So I don’t doubt that fuses make a difference. The point I was trying to make in my earlier response is that no fuse change is capable of offsetting faults in a signal path that were introduced by cables or tubes. Or components.

@cleeds I do not know what is causing this phenomenon with the Furutech stuff.
But what I do know is that I installed two of these GTX-D NCF Rhodium outlets months apart and observed the same crazy break in these things go thru each time. Or to be more precise what these outlets put the listener thru while breaking in. The sound is gorgeous straight out of the box. 10+ hours in it starts. It goes thru several phases including almost all highs, glare in the mids, no bass; then veiled mids, all bass no highs, then everything there top to bottom but super harsh and lean basically unlistenable; then all fatiguing mids and after that it begins to even out. I’ve never experienced anything like this other than with Furutech DTX-D NCF outlets and AC connectors. Their power cords take forever to break in as well.

As to why outlets make a difference, I do not know. Just like Paul McGowan doesn’t know why fuses make a difference. Is it the alloy they use? The plating? Rhodium conductivity? Contact surface? Anything happening at molecular level? No clue.

You should order the furutech gtx-d NCF outlet and try it out. See how it works in your system. And may be have an actual option of your own based on experience rather than picking on my post in another thread.

This is my only response to you as apparently having a normal conversation without jabbing isn’t something you’re capable of.

@gavin1977 I owned Thunder, Tornado and Hurricane.

Here’s my free advice…take it for what it’s worth…

Start closest to the speakers and work your way up the audio chain. Going from the source down will be less effective. So…speaker cables, power cord on the amp, interconnects feeding the amp…those are the most critical cables and will make the most difference in your case…with emphasis on “your case”.

Brightest interconnect should be (if you have to have it) from source to preamp tamed by the equivalent quality copper from pre to amp - this always worked best in my system.

Placing the Hurricane on the amp will also help with your problem

@bolong $595 directional fuse…

Note:  If you are switching from an Orange or Purple fuse to a Master fuse, start by inserting the Master fuse in the same direction as the Master fuse being replaced.  If the Master fuse is not an immediate improvement, flip the Master fuse in the alternate direction

And if it’s still not an improvement - smoke a joint, wait 20 minutes and re-evaluate