After market Motor + Belt drive for Verdier


I have been looking to upgrade my TT motor and belt drive for some time now. I use a Nouvelle Verdier and its only sore point is its motor and silk thread drive. It is not bad, it gets the job done. The sound is neat and in general non-offensive. However, when I used a 0.25 inch magnetic tape (reel to reel) to drive the platter the overall sound became more dynamic, voices sounded younger, instruments sounded happier. It was as if the pitch of all the instruments became more realistic. But then I also heard more of the irregularities of the motor rotation, the timing of instruments messed up a little. The background was no more as clean as the thread drive.

This told me two things:
1. Silk thread is good but it affects music in a way that makes the performance a bit sleepy.

2. The stock motor is not good enough to accommodate a tighter coupling with the platter.

So, I am now looking for after market motor and belt drive solution. I looked at Teres motor but for that to work they require a sensor to be placed under the platter but my TT doesnt have enough gap between the platter and plinth to place the sensor. I am looking for some viable suggestions here.

A friend of mine suggested me to consider a flywheel between the motor and the platter which will absorb the motor irregularities. I dont know if it is worth a try because I see many good TTs do not have a flywheel, that means a good motor is all I need I guess but I am open to the flywheel idea also.
pani

Showing 3 responses by salectric

Anyone using the stock Platine Verdier DC motor should look into replacing the wall-powered supply with a battery. There is at least one retailer in the UK who sells an after-market battery for the PV.

I have a Galibier Gavia in my system which uses a large battery to supply DC voltage to the motor controller. I have compared the battery a number of times to wall-powered supplies, and the battery always sounds better.
Ct0517, the voltage regulator is already in your PV motor controller. You will simply connect the battery in place of the wall-powered supply. Picture this---the PV motor runs on DC and the motor speed is controlled by the exact DC voltage fed to the motor. The controller is simply a voltage regulator that allows the user to change the DC voltage slightly in order to adjust the motor speed and then maintain it at a constant speed.

The controller needs to be fed an input DC voltage to function, i.e. it needs a voltage supply somewhat higher than the regulated output voltage being fed to the motor. That "raw" DC voltage can come from a wall-powered supply that includes a small transformer to reduce the AC line voltage to a lower AC voltage and a rectifier to change the AC to DC and some capacitors to smooth out the DC voltage. That is the approach in the PV---a small wall-powered DC supply that feeds the controller. However, you can easily duplicate the function of the wall-powered supply with a battery that has about about the same raw DC voltage as the wall-powered supply. The controller circuitry is not changed when you go to a battery supply.

I don't recall the exact voltages in the PV supply and motor. I actually have a Galibier Gavia which uses a similar arrangement. In my case, the motor runs on around 5vdc so that is the approximate output voltge of the Galibier controller. I use a big battery designed for jump-starting autos, and it puts out roughly 12 to 14 volts DC which is more than enough for the controller.

It's been several years since I heard a friend's PV that was rigged up so we could switch between a battery and the stock wall-powered supply, but as I recall he used a similar battery as mine.

The current drain on the battery is infinitessimal compared to its intended use with automobiles. Consequently, the battery can go long periods of time without recharging. I typically connect mine to the charger every month or two.
It sounds like your present power supply is in the same box as the controller. (It's been too long since I saw a PV for me to recall how it was laid out.) That will mean someone will have to open up the box and attach some leads that bypass the internal power supply so the battery can be connected directly to the controller/regulator circuitry. This is quite easy to do for someone who has some minimal experience in electronics.