Advice for a new Oracle Delphi Owner


Calling all Oracle Delphi owners, I recently bought a nice condition MK III and have a couple of questions for existing or previous owners of this fine turntable.

My questions are.

1) Do you always switch off the platter each time you change the record over or try to unclamp, flip over, re clamp whilst the platter is spinning. If the answer is yes I assume the motor is robust enough for the constant switching on and off?

2) Do you ever play with an alternative platter mat without the clamp. If so what brand.

I really like this turntable and it sounds excellent with no issues evident at the moment. My only thoughts are that it is a little more time consuming to use due to the constant power off, unclamp, place record, reclamp, power on and play routine for every side of play. 

Look forward to any input.

Thanks.
ateal

Showing 9 responses by ateal

Thanks all. It is good to know that I am following the same routine as others. I wasn't sure as it seemed that switching on and off every 20 mins would overly burden the switch and motor. I guess, conversely, trying to change a record whilst the platter is moving is also going to put additional stress on the motor when trying to tighten up the clamp.

Thanks for all your feedback.
Hi Harold, with regards to the suspension tuning / balancing is there anything other than ensuring the distance between the plinth and the underside of the suspension housing on each pillar is equal to the "B" point of the suspension gauge (21mm). And also making sure the correct spring is used in each location.

Is there a further check that needs to be done. I heard there was a bounce check but i don’t know what that is. What would you advise to ensure perfect suspension tuning.

Also what are the effects on either side of the ideal setting. Does the bass get flabby with looser suspension or does the treble rise with a stiffer setting.

Any observations you may have would be most welcome.

Thanks
Hi Cleeds, that's easy, I'm always excited when playing vinyl:). On a serious note though, thanks for that info, I will perform the test tonight and make any necessary adjustments as per your advice.

 
After getting great advice here, I went home and did the bounce test. I gave it a little tap on the top of the clamp and watched the bounce. The results seemed good - the bounce remained completely vertical just like a piston, I didn't notice any lateral movement. The actual bounce from a single light tap seemed to go on for at least 15 to 20 cycles which seemed higher than I have read elsewhere on the web. Not sure if that is too much bounce? 

Also the bounce came to a gentle stop with very tiny movement towards the end. This indicates to me that there is nothing hindering the bounce.

Any comments from current or previous owners more than welcome.

Thanks for the feedback oldears.

Thanks Harold, what exactly is the GROOVE ISOLATOR, is it a mat. The mat I have is the Audioquest sorbatane mat and it appears to be in good condition and not too sticky. Did you ever have this mat? Should I keep my eye out for an alternative?

Also does anyone know what happens to the sound, the firmer you make the suspension.

I have learnt that the current location of my springs in relation to the suspension housing is at the limit recommended in the manual, i.e. when i lift the sub platter my springs are flush with the suspension housing and no excess springs are showing underneath. This setting places the suspension housing 18mm (not 21mm) above the acrylic base.

I think this is why my suspension is quite springy and gives me plenty of bounce cycles. What I may do is re-do the suspension making sure I am 21mm from the acrylic base and in turn this will keep a little of the spring showing under the suspension housing and slightly firm up the suspension.

The manual states that after adjustment to 21mm the springs should either be flush or up to 3 spring wires showing below the suspension housing. If you are in this range and all springs are even then I guess you have the correct springs.

What a great learning curve this is on such a beautiful looking and sounding table.

I have the Oracle SME 345 tonearm on mine and I just got the SRA spot on last night while listening to the 45rpm version of "Jacintha - Jacintha is Her Name" album. Man, that "Willow Weep for Me" was sublime and intoxicating. The fine detail that was revealed and the the tone of her voice and saxophone was as real as I have ever heard. 

Thanks again.
Thanks Cleeds and Harold for the advice on the suspension.

Harold, can you clarify that problem you had with your MK III and how it adversely affected the tuning. Do you mean the 3 holes in the aluminum sub chassis did not correspond with the 3 holes in the acrylic deck. I guess that would mean one or more of the towers were skewed in the vertical plane.

If that is the case then that must have been a poor factory quality control issue and I agree such a shame.  
oldears, thanks for the tip re. the Herbies mat, I may give that a try. As for the belt ride height I checked last night and it sits square in the middle of the inner rim, so I have some room to maneuver up or down if I need to.  

Also it sounds like we both have our suspension set exactly the same at 18mm with similar bounces. That's good to know.

With regards to the bearing I am not sure if I have a 2 piece or 1 piece. I do know that I can remove the bottom of the bearing and flip over or replace the thrust pad. How do I tell if I have 1 or 2 piece bearing?

Thanks again.
Thanks for the clarification oldears and harold.

I fitted my Fidelity Research FR1 MK3F LOMC cartridge this weekend and even though it is considered a low compliance cart (10cm @  10Hz ) it matched perfectly with the low mass Oracle SME 345 tonearm.

I now feel I have my reference TT / Arm / Cart combo.