300b lovers


I have been an owner of Don Sachs gear since he began, and he modified all my HK Citation gear before he came out with his own creations.  I bought a Willsenton 300b integrated amp and was smitten with the sound of it, inexpensive as it is.  Don told me that he was designing a 300b amp with the legendary Lynn Olson and lo and behold, I got one of his early pair of pre-production mono-blocks recently, driving Spatial Audio M5 Triode Masters.  

Now with a week on the amp, I am eager to say that these 300b amps are simply sensational, creating a sound that brings the musicians right into my listening room with a palpable presence.  They create the most open vidid presentation to the music -- they are neither warm nor cool, just uncannily true to the source of the music.  They replace his excellent Kootai KT88 which I was dubious about being bettered by anything, but these amps are just outstanding.  Don is nearing production of a successor to his highly regard DS2 preamp, which also will have a  unique circuitry to mate with his 300b monos via XLR connections.  Don explained the sonic benefits of this design and it went over my head, but clearly these designs are well though out.. my ears confirm it. 

I have been an audiophile for nearly 50 years having had a boatload of electronics during that time, but I personally have never heard such a realistic presentation to my music as I am hearing with these 300b monos in my system.  300b tubes lend themselves to realistic music reproduction as my Willsenton 300b integrated amps informed me, but Don's 300b amps are in a entirely different realm.  Of course, 300b amps favor efficient speakers so carefully component matching is paramount.

Don is working out a business arrangement to have his electronics built by an American audio firm so they will soon be more widely available to the public.  Don will be attending the Seattle Audio Show in June in the Spatial Audio room where the speakers will be driven by his 300b monos and his preamp, with digital conversion with the outstanding Lampizator Pacific tube DAC.  I will be there to hear what I expect to be an outstanding sonic presentation.  

To allay any questions about the cost of Don's 300b mono, I do not have an answer. 

 

 

whitestix

I would suggest that this thread has planted a seed that has now become a seedling.

Between my last post and very recently I have become the owner of a SE 300b Power Amp.

I am yet to fire it Up as it was purchased without Tubes, but am very close to having the first experience.

A dual concentric Speaker is also a new addition at 96dB efficiency, these are superb driven by the PP 845's and know they are going to work with the 5W 300b just fine.

Within my Local HiFi Group there are Six Brands of 300b able to be tried inclusive of my recent purchases of Two Brands of 300b. What is very interesting is that there is a good selection of Driver Valves up to approx' 70 years vintage to be used in conjunction with 300b's. The anticipation being, but also founded from prior experiences had, something will connect as a more than perfect synergy and be a Super Combo.

A lot to look forward to, the mould is broken, the new outlook is quite different and removed from my long term maintained Audio Ideals, where I have been very very committed to maintaining my choices made.  

Don and I wanted to avoid unobtanium vacuum tubes, while leaving the option of "tube rolling" up to the owner. All we ask is the owner uses matched pairs, whether vintage or modern. This retains DC balance while keeping distortion low ... with typical matched pairs, the dynamic gain-match is usually within 3% of each other, which gives a 30 dB distortion reduction compared to an equivalent SET circuit. All without using either local or global feedback.

The high-power Class A balanced drive for the 300B grids is a big part of the Blackbird’s sound. This is a sharp departure from "Golden Age" practice of the 1950’s and 1960’s, which used low-current "concertina" drivers for the output tubes (Dynaco circuit, also widely used in vintage receivers), or a differential long-tail pair (Mullard circuit). These are (barely) acceptable for pentodes and beam-tetrode tubes, but not very good for triode output tubes.

The designers of the "Golden Age" amplifiers were struggling for every single watt, which is why Class AB was universal for these amps, to maximize power output and efficiency. Watts were very expensive back then, and power transistors were notoriously unreliable. (Partly due to lack of understanding of Secondary Breakdown and stability issues with full-power oscillation, and partly the devices themselves.)

This is why the transistor conversion, which began around 1964, took about five to ten years. Transistor amps didn’t really become reliable until the mid-Seventies, while they passed tubes in the watts-per-dollar competition a few years earlier. It wasn’t until the late Eighties and early Nineties when tubes started to ascend in the North American high-end market. By then, the tube factories in North America, the UK, and Western Europe had all closed ... but Russian, Czech, and Chinese tubes appeared on the market to replace them.

Hi @lynn_olson ,

I’m working on my DIY 300B SET amplifier, which has three stages coupled by transformers. The first stage uses 1/2 6sn7, and I’ve been experimenting with different driver tubes: 6f6, 6v6, and 5881. I’ve noticed that the more powerful the tube, the better the performance. My findings so far are that the 6f6 is the least impressive, sounding somewhat forward and harsh. The 6v6 offers a lush and warm tone, while the 5881 provides the largest soundstage and the best instrument separation in complex musical passages.

The interstage transformer I’m using between the driver and the 300B is a Hashimoto A-305, which I understand is based on the renowned Tango NC-20. The challenge with this transformer is its 40mA maximum idle current. Currently, I’m running the 5881 at 36mA, and it seems to be working well within this limitation.

My question is regarding potentially moving to even more powerful driver tubes such as the EL37, KT66, or KT88. What would you estimate to be the minimum idle current required for these tubes to perform well in single-ended (SE) mode?

I’m also aware that if I switch to a more powerful driver tube, I’ll need to upgrade the filament transformer from a 25VA Antek to a 50VA Antek, which isn’t a major concern. The main constraint seems to be the idle current limitation of the interstage SE transformer.

Any insights you could offer on the minimum idle current for the EL37, KT66, or KT88 in this context would be greatly appreciated.

 

Best,

Alex

@alexberger 

If I were you I'd be concerned about the current for a driver tube that must pass through the core of the interstage transformer. That current is DC and causes the core to be magnetized. That in turn leads to saturation which increases distortion.

To reduce distortion, a saw cut is made in the core of the transformer. This dramatically reduces inductance at low frequencies and such frequencies will result in a poor load for the tube because the load line becomes elliptical. 

If i were you I'd be looking for less current rather than more. All you really need is the ability to saturate the power tube. If you can do that with a 6SN7 you'll be in good shape. 

BTW this is one reason I really don't think interstage transformers are a good idea for SETs- its why I prefer to direct couple. 

BTW this elliptical load line thing is a problem for most SET's output transformers (excepting parafeed circuits). For this reason, if you're using an SET you really want to limit bass frequencies getting into it as they cause the amp to make a lot of distortion, and are also hard on the (sometimes expensive) power tube as the load impedance literally vanishes at lower frequencies due to the lack of inductance in the output transformer. 

If you want the most out of almost any SET, preventing bass signals getting into it is one of the major ways to do so. 

Hi Alex! Unfortunately, I think you are limited by the maximum DC current the interstage will accept. As Ralph mentions above, SET transformers, whether interstage or output, have air-gaps in the core so they can tolerate the DC offsets. This has the side effect of requiring much larger cores, since air-gapping the core reduces inductance several times. OK, so the IT grows in size. Unfortunately, there is another downside as the core gets larger ... stray capacitance between windings also gets larger, which is a fancy way of saying less bandwidth.

So the effective cost, assuming clean-sheet transformer design, is decreased bandwidth on both ends of the spectrum. But transformer designers are clever and now have access to computer modeling that wasn’t available in previous decades, so clever interleaving schemes, and analysis of flux density in different parts of the core, lets them "do the impossible" compared to 20 or 30 years ago. So I would suggest looking at Cinemag or Monolith if you want an exotic custom design, but I warn you that requiring 60 mA as well as wide bandwidth will push the transformer to the limits of what can be done. And it will not be cheap ... custom work never is.

Don and I are using both Cinemag and Monolith, and they are custom designed for us. They are not off-the-shelf parts, and we collaborated with the transformer designers over several iterations before we got to where we are now.

You are limited in scope as long as you are buying off-the-shelf transformers, whether IT or output types.

However, it isn't bad as it sounds. Even a massive tube like the KT88 works just fine at 36 mA. Conveniently enough, all of these family of beam-tetrode tubes have the same octal socket and the same pin wiring. So just twiddle the cathode resistor to run the tube at 36 mA, and off you go. And if it's a little guy like a 6V6, just run it around 25~30 mA, and compare your favorite types. Frankly, the choice of cathode bypass cap may be more audible than the tube you choose.