200-amp Breaker Panel Question

Thanks John and Jea48, I will simply leave the 20-amp breakers in that I did install for the amps and return the 30-amp breakers that I ordered.

Bob, have a good trip, talk to you soon.

Fmpnd,
sounds like you are doing the right thing. The only thing I would change is the 30 amp breakers. 10 Ga wire is correct for 30 amps, but that is a lot of power required to trigger that 30 amp breaker. Your amp could be on fire, and pulling less than the 30 amps, so it would not trip. I would insert a 20 amp breaker in its place. And as you mentioned try to keep your audio circuits all on one phase, while the noiser stuff goes on the other phase. Just be sure you have a balance between the two phases.

Hi Frank,

Sorry that I am just getting back to you here. You are welcome to give me a call as it would be great to catch up and also share the additional information that I have found out. As always, there are some good aspects and not so good aspects depending on your point of view.

It will be best to call me next Tuesday or after as I am leaving for London this evening. Tally-ho...or something like that! Regards,

The purpose of the branch circuit overcurrent device, in this case a breaker, is to protect the branch circuit wire and electrical outlet, the receptacle, from being overloaded.

It is not designed to protect your audio equipment. Your equipment is protected internally by fuse or circuit breaker protection.

The wattgate receptacle is rated for 20 amps , 125 volts .

Modern day breakers, as found in homes, should have more than enough built-in lag time to power up your Amps.

Jea48,

Thanks. Actually, an audio equipment distributor is the one who told me to use the 30-amp breaker with the Wattgate or FIM recptacles that I have that my Lamm monos are plugged into. I assume then that there could be damage to my equipment if I use the 30-amp breaker on the WattGates or FIMs?

Frank

I didn't put my amps on 30 amp breakers yet as I only had 2-pole 30-amp breakers which would then mean they would be on both phases (since the 2-pole breaker is twice as wide). I am going to pick up two single-pole 30-amp breakers tonight........

When you go to buy the breakers check out the price on single pole 15 and 20 amp breakers. You should find they are exactly the same price as the single pole 30 amp breaker.

The contacts are exactly the same in the 15 and 20 amp breakers as the 30 amp..... Only the trip unit is different for each breaker.

If you are using NEMA 5-15R duplex/s or NEMA 5-20R receptacles the largest breaker you should feed the receptacle with is 20 amp. (20 amp recept/s shall be fed by a 20 amp breaker.)

Your licensed electrician you hired should have informed you of that fact.

Thanks everyone. The electrician worked 5 hours on Saturday and 12 hours on Sunday to get the panel in (my house is ALWAYS the house from "HELL" whenever anyone works on it so it didn't suprise me when it took him three times as long as he thought it would).

It also turns out I already had 200 amp service to the house so I didn't have to call the electric company to upgrade the service.

I didn't put my amps on 30 amp breakers yet as I only had 2-pole 30-amp breakers which would then mean they would be on both phases (since the 2-pole breaker is twice as wide). I am going to pick up two single-pole 30-amp breakers tonight and will treat them (sparingly) with SST.

Even without any after market wire (although I do have heavy 10 gauge solid-core wire in Greenfield conduit for my lines and very good outlets), the difference was much more noticable than I thought it would be given that I already had six dedicated lines. The biggest differences I heard immediately (you would literally have to be hearing impaired NOT to have heard this difference), was a pronounced improvement in bass articulation and transient attack as well as increased dynamics.

I was not in any way dissatisfied with my system or my sound prior to this change. I was changing the panel because my entire house would dim any time my AC (whether the central AC or my stereo room thru-wall extra AC), the fridge or the dishwasher went on. Now, the lights weren't phased at all when I kicked in the AC last night so, mission accomplished! The fact that the music sounds better and more lively too is just icing on the cake!. I only had about 35-40 minutes to audition last night so I am still assessing.

Fmpnd, it sounds like you've got your ducks in a row.

About the only things remaining to consider might be:

o An industrial grade service panel (perhaps silver bus).

o Cryo-treated dedicated lines (I had Cryo-Nebraska double-cryo 500 ft. of 10 gauge).

BTW, proper line conditioning should negate any concern for noisy AC appliances being on the same or opposing leg/phase.

Most important consideration may be protecting your components from bi-directional digital noise induced through the AC lines by cdps, DACs, computers, digital amps, etc.. This digital noise will make its way back from the source to the service panel and then into your dedicated lines. The only way I know to treat this is proper line conditioning that includes bi-directional filtering (which also keeps digital noise from going back into the wall and inducing sonic harm elsewhere).

-IMO

If you want an upgrade consider a sub panel of 'balanced power'units from Equitech. Or more economically buy a couple of their "blowout sale" slightly noisy transformers in a box and use them as subpanels. I did and have been very satisfied with the improvements to my Spectra/MIT system. Good luck. Pete

Hi Mr F- One of the best things about silver is that it's oxide doesn't affect electrical transfer the way copper's does. It wouldn't hurt to re-apply it now and then. But- it shouldn't be necessary. Actually- removing breakers is a very simple task, and the application of the SST should be quite easy. Apply it(sparingly of course) to the breaker contact with a pipe cleaner(the one that grips the main), and to the wire/breaker connection.

A separate 50 amp panel would be awesome if you can pull it off?
I'd also suggest a whole house surge protector. It will fit inside your new panel and will stop major surges (ie lightning). It won't eliminate the need for smaller units throughout your house. It will protect them from getting fried when doing their jobs.
Should be $300-$400

Tweak1,

I have also heard that and I was considering having a second "mains" panel (not a sub-panel) but certain logistical problems prevent me from doing so.

Thanks.

I read somewhere to actually get a separate panel for your A/V system(s)

Hey Bob! How's your system these days. I will look into the AP cable, especially since they are very close to my home. I still have your phone number so I may give you a call if that's ok.

Rodman, I actually have the Walker Extreme SST but have always been a bit cautious on where I put it - I did put it on my tube pins but have yet to try it on electrical plugs (but this may be the time to do so). My buddy Rushton is a big believer in the SST and sings its praises. I know to use it sparingly but I never thought about it in the panel box. Are you suggesting I use ith there? Is there any potential problem with it deteriorating with age and needing to be cleaned and re-applied? If so, I would think treating the copper bus on the breaker panel would not be a very convenient connection to do so. Thanks for the imput on the phase question.

Hi Frank, It has been a long time and glad to see you are still making improvements. I am still tweaking also and am currently comparing Analysis Plus power cable vs. Romex 10/2. It is a huge difference and posted some comments on another thread. The cable is not cheap but I found the difference totally worth it. If you want to know more just let me know. Regards, Bob

One of these products on every electrical connection: (http://www.walkeraudio.com/sst.htm) Do place the system on the opposite phase. You'll avoid any voltage drops when the appliances are starting/running, if nothing else(you'll still have the same neutral).