Anybody have an actively multi-amplified system?

In my own case, I just never did, at the time I was considering the idea, get past the extra cost and complexity (especially since I use a DAC, which have required an extra A-to-D and D-to-A conversion). And I'd be curious to know what kind of volume-control solution you came up with...I feel I eventually would likely have found one, but for me I knew it would neither be easy nor cheap...especially if resistor-based solutions (or better) were the goal, which they were for me. In the end I managed to get around some the performance disadvantages (actually in some quite unorthodox ways, as it turned out) of sticking to passive crossovers and a single amp per channel, but of course not completely so, as I'm sure you can imagine. Another thing, by way of the Behringer DCX that I was considering, was being able to digitally time align the drivers in my 3-way towers (no sub). I actually may still, at some point, rebuild my speaker cabinets so as to be able to do this physically, when I have the money and have figured out the last of the of the how-to's. But, after some point of looking into the idea of multi amping before your post, I did reach the realization that the potential for performance gain is unquestionably a real and valid thing. And I also can't say why it hasn't been discussed more than it has either, but I agree with you that just because manufacturers have dropped the ball on embracing the concept doesn't mean the rest of us have to - so kudos for being willing to help mark the trail and for starting this thread and I hope for everyone's sake others will join in. Good post. Regards. John

Hi John!

Great to see a reply so soon after posting. Yes it is more complex, and costly, so it's not for everyone. But not really...if for example (and I know this isn't a good one) people are buying $100,000 speakers to be driven by a $50,000 monster power amp, it makes far more sense to not buy the crossover assembly within the cabinet (there's a lot of expense there), but to buy 2 or 3 smaller amplifiers and an electronic crossover, as long as the quality is on par with what you're giving up. And yes you need more cabling. But the sound will be NIGHT AND DAY better. Not having a bunch of coils, capacitors and resistors between the output of the amplifier and the driver itself, it HAS to be better.

I have the Esoteric stack, P-01/2x D-01/G-0Rb. It has a variable output and it drives the crossover directly, no preamp at all. Not all DACs can do that, and some people swear by a preamp. My philosophy is if the DAC has a proper drive stage to begin with, you don't need one, unless you need input switching or a volume control. If you do need a volume control and/or input switching, Goldpoint makes what I consider the best passive preamp available, and it's cheap($500)! I have the SA-1X balanced version, and it's so simple, yet sounds so transparent, it's like there's nothing there (not using it at the moment). And yes it's a stepped attenuator, just what you're looking for. They sell them direct, and the RCA version will be even less, like $300. OK, back to crossovers. I used an Audio Control Richter Scale for a while when I was just starting, and the Behringer is along similar lines. It will certainly get you into the world of active, and it's worth trying just to see what active does, but honestly, you won't be happy with it in the long run. It's cheap, so you won't lose much if you resell it, but it's pretty low-end. The question of course, is what do you buy that's better? Bryston has one, never tried it. There's just not much around. Accuphase makes one, but they're all digital now, and pretty expensive. My crossover runs in the analog domain, so there's no extra A/D and D/A conversion, but they haven't built them since 2001! There's just no demand. As far as time-aligning goes, I have quite a bit of experience with that. You are FAR better off to physically move the drivers so they're time aligned, than trying digital delay. It sounds WAY better if you can build the speakers time-aligned in the first place. I've found over the years, that digital anything - crossovers, delays, filters, equalisation...just doesn't sound nearly as good for some reason, as doing it in the analog domain. And thanks, I really wanted to start this thread as it's something that CAN be done, in the real world, with real budgets. The only people that I know of that have ever done anything like this in the consumer world is Linn. It's okay, it has quite the cult following, but it's not my cup of tea. Keep writing, as you make progress. Thanks John!

I'm currently working on a JBL fully active system. I'm building a pair of 4345 but with 2206 mid-bass, and 2441/2309/2310 mid-range. I have 3 Acoustat TNT200 amps and one TNT120. I will use 2 of them in mono for bass, 1 for mid-bass and the 120 for the 2441s. I'll need another one for the 2405s. I'm about to have the cabs built by a reputable builder. I'm thinking of building in a qick-change capability to use the 2441s in reverse as direct radiators with just the 2310 in front. That way I can use these monsters in a medium size room. A couple of DCX2496 should do the trick but I'm wondering about a Marchand 4-way or maybe Mini-DSP. I'm leaning toward the Marchand analog vs. digital, though. What are your thoughts or experience in this regard?

Okay, looks like you just answered my question.

After using actively multi-amped systems for years(pro); I started doing it at home, in 1981. By then: I had my own shoppe building, modding and repairing pro and home audio speaker systems and electronics. My first home system used KEF drivers and Rogers LS3-5A crossovers(all matched) in the mains, an active X-over, built with DeCoursey Lab boards, and KEF B-139's, in sealed enclosures. Being a Hafler dealer; I used all highly modded Hafler(SS) gear, at the time. Sold that system, and built some 10" driver(Nestorovics), 8' tapered, folded transmission-line woofers, bought a Dahlquist DQ-LP1 filter and a pair of Acoustat Mod III's. Again- using heavily modded Hafler gear for power. Still have the same TL bottom end(now housing SEAS L26ROY
D1001's), a modded Hafler TransNova 9505, but using a modded TacT RCS 2.2X, Magnepan MG12qr's and Modded Cary SLM-100's. I'd love to go bigger on the mains, BUT- a costly divorce lost me a lot of listening area(in SQ FT).