Cat JL2 with blown board. Advice needed


This is an older non signature model. A tube went out and the resistors protecting the output transformers combusted taking out one of the boards.

Now the good news: an upgrade to a signature model won't cost anymore with the damage. The bad news: this is my only stereo. Ken Stevens himself advised that it's really not the intent of the amp to use it for amplifying football and CNN. His point is that he doesn't do that and he can get tubes a lot cheaper than I can.

I really liked the amp even in it's non signature form. I have a symphonic line tube pre amp and Eggleston Andra speakers. I have been told that the Symphonic Line Kraft 250 is even better than the JL2 however no one has told me definitively against the JL2 signature.

Given the speakers and how I am going to use the amp, do I get it fixed and keep it or move on?

What would the amp be worth as is? You can buy the amp, pay $5000 to upgrade it and have a factory certified JL2 signature. It should have value.

Or is the signature even better than the Kraft 250 or any other SS amp in the $8k used range? If the signature is the cat's meow in it's range I am leaning towards keeping it and dealing with buying a lot of tubes frequently. I probably use the amp 750 hours a year.
defender1844
I emailed Ken Stevens, made him aware of this thread and asked if he’d like to offer any advice. As he’s not a registered member, I volunteered to post his response and recommendations.
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Hi, Defender 1844. I think we talked about this over a year ago. I really advise people not to use ANY tube amplifier in A/V systems or for background music. As I mentioned last year, I use a cheap Denon receiver for my A/V and physically switch speaker wires to the CAT amps when getting serious about audio. That's also why our SL1 A/V bypass engages when the preamplifier is turned OFF - it's literally a passive pass-through at that point.

I recall that you were quite insistent about using the CAT JL2 in your A/V system. I believe I recommended biasing the tubes a bit low to begin with (and then never adjusting bias thereafter of course) Did you follow this recommendation? I'm not being critical of you, just wanted to know if you did this.(This is not a proven recommendation - just an idea I had that might help. We really don't get many people using the amps in A/V systems.) Obviously if you did as I suggested then I won't suggest that other people try it.

An upgrade is certainly not needed to get this amplifier up and running again. We would be glad the send your dealer replacement fuse resistors. For the past three months, we've been using new ones which are more predictable and less likely to flame up, however we won't really know if they solve any problems until one of them blows! As yet, they have not. BTW, the purpose of the fuse resistor is to prevent damage to the ultra-expensive output transformer should a tube short internally.

Finally, regarding the comment someone made about damping factor as an indicator of bass quality: I find that DF is no more a predictor of bass quality than THD is a predictor of transparency. The JL2 has bass which is handily superior to ALL other tube amplifiers and almost all SS amplifiers despite a modest damping factor. On the other hand, anyone who has listened to a Crown IC 150 (DF of 20,000) will tell you that high DF could well be accompanied by really mediocre bass. I'm not saying that high DF is a bad thing, in fact "all other things being equal" it’s probably a good thing. But all other things are never equal, and there are many things far more important than DF (or any other spec).

The JL3 monoblocks do have a higher DF than the JL2 and they do have better bass. In fact the JL3 probably has the best bass of any amplifier in the world, including even the Kraft 400 (the much better sounding big brother of the Kraft 250). Clearly, much more than the higher DF is responsible for the superior bass of the JL3.

BTW it is the Kraft 400 which I have recommended to some people who are insistent on SS power, NOT the Kraft 250. In fact recently I heard from George that the 250 sounds much more like the cheaper RG series than it sounds like the Kraft 400. He said it was decidedly lightweight and over-controlled, lacking the richness of the 400. (The 400 could also be described as somewhat lightweight, but much less so than the RG series or, according to George, the 250)

Ken Stevens
President
Convergent Audio Technology, Inc.

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Tfrumweiller,
good response from Ken himself. I tend to agree w/ him about DF being an indicator of bass response given that there is much interaction of the amp w/ the speaker to make just DF be the sole parameter.

Very interesting comments on the Symphonic Line Kraft 250 power amp! I DO NOT take any offence to them - just want to let all know for ample clarification.
At present I am using Ken's SL1 Signature preamp with my Kraft 300 (not 250) & I can confidently say that the combination does not lack bass. In fact I am very happy w/ the combination & The only change I'd make is to shell out some money to buy one of Ken's newer preamps like the Renaissance or the Legend. I believe the newer preamps throw an even wider, deeper & more life-like soundstage. If I only had some money......

I do not know which preamp George is using in his setup? I don't know why he is hearing a light-weight bass?
From Ken Stevens:
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I said the Kraft 250 was described by George as being lightweight and overcontrolled. This is completely different from saying it "lacks bass".

Ken Stevens
President
Convergent Audio Technology, Inc.

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>> I said the Kraft 250 was described by George as being
>> lightweight and overcontrolled. This is completely
>> different from saying it "lacks bass".

OK, thanx for the clarification & letting us know where Ken was coming from.
I interpret "overcontrolled" to mean more negative feedback?
"lightweight" to mean lacking midrange warmth?

Wish that George V would read this thread & post some info on what he was hearing w.r.t. the Kraft 250.......
Those of you that are prone to buying bridges from con artists, read the following: http://www.classic-audio.com/marantz/mdampingfactor.html

Bart