Von scheikert VR4jr what are you using ?

So far very happy with the way the JR's are sounding. The advice I received from the factory was on the money.
Got them on the spikes yesterday, no lead shot, not sure I really need it. They have about 50 hrs. on them so far and are opening up nicely.
I'm still curious about the Nuforce and CI amp, we'll see.
Thanks for listening

Jeff

Need shot? Try your local "Trap & skeet" club (s).

I use what I've got, and not done much experimenting with other amp & preamp combos. I run a pair of BATs... VK500 w/BP, and a VK5i preamp with different tubes than stock. I keep my secondary tweeter down to almost off. 'cept for once in while. My drivers are right at 50" off the rear wall, and right at 30" OC from the side walls... putting them just under eight ft apart. No shot in mine currently, but do have the larger spikes. Two sets of bi wires... Alpha Quad active on just the bass driver, (both sets of leads), and a set of Signature 10 active x2 bi wires doing the mid bass and top modules... it's close to the best sound I've heard coming from Jr's... over 50% for sure... now that I've added all the other cabling...

But the best sound I've ever heard on JR's, was a Thor setup... using the little 30wpc monos, and the TA1000 thor preamp.... and I believe Audience speaker cables... Shanlin Tube SACD... can't say about the IC's... or power cords. Matter of fact that event was the best, most natural sound I've yet heard... though the audition was brief... and followed listeing to a less expensive front end on the VR4 GEN III's. same cd but 220 wpc less, & SS powered. Go figure.

The note about the supporting the floor joists sure is interesting.... my floor is hollow too... w/16" OC joists. I have been told that using another form of base under the plinths is a good idea in that regard..... wood box filled with sand, some sort of stone... I'm thinkning to do both.. build a box and insert some pavers, and fill out the balance with sand.... but firm footing does seem to be indicated with JR's.

Blindjim,
Are you saying that you have cables hooked up the all 3 pairs of posts on each speaker?
I find the manual very poorly written as far as wiring goes, especially considering the numerous options.
I think the upper set on the bass module is only for connection to the data link. So that if biwiring, you only would connect to the lowest pair on the bass module and the pair on the M/T module, without using the jumper. Is this correct?
Thanks

Mfsoa ...yes. All three sets of binding posts have speaker cables attached to them... the Signature 10 bi-wire set is attached to the mid bass, and upper module binding posts... low pass on the mid bass, and high pass on the upper module. the single low bass driver has a set of Alpha Quad bi-wire active x, (not the x2, like the Sig's, but still 'biwires'), and I used a pair of banana adapters with both plug in and pressure fittings to connect both high and low to the pair of posts... itworks best that way vs. just using the low pass pair.

Of course the brass plates connecting the two drivers in the bass module has been removed. No 'data link is or has been used in my system.

Primarily the reason for this is that in this fashion better reproduction of the low end is available, IMO. i SAW THIS HOOK UP AT A DEALER. He used other speaker cables however. I use what I got. Needing 15ft isn't gonna give a person a lot of options unless they are willing to go off for some big money speaker wires. and as they only go down to the mid to low 30's anyhow... these I think are fine... till I can afford another better bass cable option.

also, this hook up is due to the fact the speaker cables I got were one owners previously... and the 'span' of the bi wires was not sufficient to traverse the total distavnce from the lowest binding posts to the top most ones all by their lonesome. You need about a 20 inch spread or better to make that jump... Most bi-wires, are 16 or less... having but two legs of 6 to 8 inches. Sure makes it tough...

But these were built to have bi amped anyhow. so in that instance, one biwire set and one dedicated normal set does the deal....

do remember to remove the brass plates connecting the two lower drivers before doing what I did. You're only overcoming one crossover this way... not both. I seem to get more impact on the lower portion of the scale like I have it... and I did try a couple ways of hooking them up.. and with a few different wires.. nothing spectacular in regard to the type of wires.. just run of the mill cables.

The seamlessness and/or cohesiveness of the lower end registers sound was more the noticed aspect. Wether it's the fashion of the 'hook up' or the same brand, yet different models accounting for it, nonetheless, it's there. there's simply a better blending.

Although preceeding the Sig 10's the Alpha Quad x active were the main cables, and an ole set of Monster biwires were at the spot they maintain now... the Monster 1.4's actually had more 'jump', but the Alpha's join better with the Sig 10's... that's all either way it's an improvment over the brass plates... actually just cutting out some romex vs. the paltes was an improvemnt. Copper is better than brass... and solid wires on the bottom is best too. IMO... for these speakers. "RMV".

oF COURSE, IF YOU HAVE A 20 - 24 INCH SPAN OF BI WIRES OR ORDER SOME THAT WAY... JUST HOOK TO THE BOTTOM POSTS AND UPPER MODULE AS THE MANUAL SAYS.

Hope that answers your quesiton

I am now using a 10 watt (20 at 4 ohm) amp whose power supply is a 12V battery. Drives the JR's no problem to moderate listening levels. That said I have come to the conclusion that the JR's are just too big for my room. The overall dimensions of my room are fine for the JR's but given where I have to put them they just do not have enough room to breathe. I have begun to look for smaller speakers and will be selling my pair. While I have had JR's for 2 years now, I have only had this pair for 2 months (recent production - zip 48067).