TECHNICS SL1200 MKII.......THE REAL FACTS


I have been a very active participant in this hobby for many years (going on 30). I have owned amplifiers by B&K, Marantz, Forte, VanAlstine, Accuphase, GAS, Onkyo Grand Integra, Musical Fidelity.....Speakers by Thiel, Energy, Genesis, Vandersteen, PSB, Definitive Tech, KEF, Mission, B&W....Turntables by Sota, Rega, Linn, AR, Thorens, Dual, and yes; Technics. I have a Technics SL1200 MKII which I have had for a few years now. It has been modified in the following ways (all mods based on trial and error and final listening results):
-TT Weights 454 record weight
-XPM1 Acrylic mat with 1/4" heavy Technics rubber mat underneath
-Steel plinth cover (chrome finish). I cannot explain why, but the background is more quiet and micro dynamics are better with this in place.
-Armtube stuffed loosely with cotton.
-Heat shrink tubing on outside of arm tube.
-Stock headshell replaced with Sumiko with Sumiko headshell wires (do NOT underestimate what headshell quality can do with these things).
-Plugs on the stock cables replaced with better plugs: Vampire OFC RCA plugs.
-Bearings adjusted for minimal play with minimal friction.
-KAB Power Supply added

Now, this is the scoop. I do not want a Technics turntable. I am an audio snob. I want only salon approved brands; period. That is why this situation sucks dog. Out of all the turntables I have owned. This Technics with this combination of mods has the blackest background, the best dynamics, the most detail, the clearest stage, the most pace and timing and overall just simply plays the song in the least-confused manner of ANY turntable I have ever owned. In many ways it makes every other turntable I have ever owned sound like Amateur Night in sonic comparisons. Facts are facts. The Technics SL1200 MKII, when properly tweeked, is one serious LP playback unit. At least the chrome plated steel plinth cover covers up the name.
audiomaster1967
Ok, not sure why I bother in this rather circular argument but I will add my 2 cents.

Every direct drive turntable I've read about and seen measured has lower wow & flutter and better rumble figures than most any belt drive unit. They also have in the magnitude of 10-100 times better speed stability. Now both properly made belt drive and direct drive turntables will have most/all sonic flaws be below general audibility. So we are talking for typically a debate only.

Direct drive turntables DO NOT have the motor in any direct contact with the platter. Any vibrations of the motor can only come through the bearing mount and the rest of the chassis. Engineers can reduce or mostly eliminate much of that. Since a direct drive motor turns 1:1 speed any first order vibrations will be at 33.3 or 45 rpm only. Well below what most of us will normally hear, at least as problematic.

Belt drive if engineered well can provide superb playback but all belt drive motors are coupled to the platter, yes a rubber belt acts as an isolator but it does attach the motor to the platter. On top of that most belt drive motors are 300 or 600rpm design. The vibrations they give in the first order will be at 300 and 600 rpm and if not filtered out/down well may be heard by normal human hearing.

This is why again pretty well any good direct drive turntable measures better W&F and lower rumble numbers.

I've owned both drives, both can sound great and can provide years of enjoyment but quite simply if engineered properly a direct drive turntable is a superior playback machine for all crucial specs, W&F, speed stability, affects due to temp. and humidity and rumble. It is not even a competition. To argue against such makes no sense to me.

This said as long as the engineering understands things, a belt drive turntable can provide a sonic pleasure that most any human can enjoy and will be generally incapable to hear any of the playback back ills we do not like such as W&F, speed stability problems and rumble issues. But belt drive requires more routine maintenance such as replace the of belts due to use, and age. Belt drivers do not like huge temp. and humidity ranges and many lack torque to deal with stylus drag in groove modulations. The question is can this stylus drag in groove modulation be heard? Well that is another rather circular argument, much like debating $2000 power cords vs the $5.00 ones.

I have a classic, high end, vintage, quartz locked, direct drive turntable. Impeccably engineered when the Made In Japan Corps had huge amounts of cash to R&D these behemoths. It's has impeccable speed stability, suffers from no cogging nonsense, has superior W&F measured less than .025% wrms/.04% Din. It has a measured rumble of >78db. It has a speed stability measure at <.002%. Set up properly and used properly it makes no audible room incursion noises, it's dead silent as a drive system on LP playback noise. It's near maintenance free and I will put it up against any other turntable made. I'm not saying it will equal or best all, but that it will not be embarrassed by any be they regular priced models or even uber high end ones.

Sorry folks I once began to fall in to this higher end, audiophile stuff (err, mucho crappola) and eventually realized too much of it is snake oil. I'm a hi-fi buff and anal about care and use of all my gear. I have very good hearing and I am a rather critical listener to music. I am human and not perfect so as such these flaws affect listening and pleasure of music. I put good money for value and I do not (sorry if this offends) delude myself in to a world of uber high end, too much audiophile snake oil. But if such works for others SO BE IT! IT'S YOUR MONEY!
I very much agree with your views on direct drive. I disagree with your view on the uber high end. Yes, it is expensive and probably overpriced. But some of it is actually really good stuff. It just depends on the manufacturer, the engineering, and the type of people that run the operations. Imo, the really good companies do not indulge in the snake oil business. It's true there's a lot of dubious marketing involved, but it's up to the consumer to see through that. And as you said, "it's your money." The point is to be happy and put together a system that brings forth a very satisfying musical experience!
As to high end, I totally understand why many may be enamored by it and as long as it's money one can afford to spend it's ok! I believe in the value to cost ideals though. I do not buy low end junk but I also do not see the value in the diminishing returns that uber high end gives in terms of performance over the multitude of quality gear at lower prices. Of course as audio jewelry of uber high end, well that's another discussion on said value or lack there may be.

The audiophoolery stuff though abounds in this hobby/adventure. I hate the snake oil crap that succeeds in taking money from otherwise regular peoples pockets. I have fallen even slightly for some of this snake oil crap. I've learned my lesson on it all.
05-23-14: Kiko65
The general rule is that a belt drive can be more stable and isolated than direct drive.

Belt drive should provide better isolation from the motor. It's also believed to filter out flutter by being elastic.

In theory, belt drive should have the lowest rumble of the two, with Direct having less wow and flutter.

These "rules" you generalized have been repeated ad nauseam in forums and they are shaky. Please reread Les_creative_edge's comments.

I know the term "magnetic drive" was used as a marketing ploy to deflect the bad reps direct drive garnered in the past but it is in fact an apt way to describe how it works. The interface between the motor and platter is not a belt nor idler wheel but a magnetic force. You cannot get any mechanically simpler than that as there is only ONE single moving part!

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As to high end, I totally understand why many may be enamored by it and as long as it's money one can afford to spend it's ok! I believe in the value to cost ideals though. I do not buy low end junk but I also do not see the value in the diminishing returns that uber high end gives in terms of performance over the multitude of quality gear at lower prices. Of course as audio jewelry of uber high end, well that's another discussion on said value or lack there may be.

The audiophoolery stuff though abounds in this hobby/adventure. I hate the snake oil crap that succeeds in taking money from otherwise regular peoples pockets. I have fallen even slightly for some of this snake oil crap. I've learned my lesson on it all.

I understand. Again, there's some of the uber high end that is head and shoulders sound wise above less expensive units. Not all of it falls into the diminishing returns camp. Is it still overpriced? Probably, but most of audio is that way, and the resale value isn't that great save a few select brands. But, you get what you pay for, imo. On the other hand, I am not adverse to good bang for the buck stuff. That certainly has its merits too. It all boils down to what you are looking for, and what can you get out of it to have a true satisfying emotional and musical experience.

I don't care for snake oil either. I'm not into crazy off the wall tweaks and such. However, I do believe that good quality cables make a difference. That has been a long running debate for at least 30 years now. I base my judgements by my experiments in my own system as well as others. I use excellent cables now, which were not cheap, and I use to have the dirt cheap stuff. And in my opinion, the current cables I now use succeed over the cheaper brands I formerly used. I did hear a noticeable difference; it wasn't subtle.