Record is noisier after cleaning:

Get a static gun, the Milty Zerostat works for me.... it gets rid of almost all pops when I use it........ I thought all the pops were from dirt or dust, now I know static makes a big ugly sound.

If it is still making noise, use a strong record cleaner from Last, Nitty Gritty etc. to lift off the mold release. Then use Last Preservative. Clean again and stop the 16.5 after 1-2 revolutions or dry suction will create static problems. Get the gun as suggested, and don't use the brushes, they have dirt on them. Dirt on the record plus heat means you melt the dirt into the wall of the record....tick...tick..tick. Vinyl quality is an issue too. I have records I have used "Last" on, cleaner and preservative and used the 16.5 and they are still quiet after 50 plus plays. If your tracking force is too high, you are digging a hole into your record also. Most cartridges track about 1.5-2 grams. Also, too light will also damage your records....bouncing around.

Try vacuuming for more than one rotation after applying the fluid. You may be leaving behind some of the fluid that you have applied to the record surface. Let it go for three or four revolutions and see if this helps.

This will likely introduce more static onto the LP; so use a carbon fiber brush afterwards and before playing. Zerostat would be ideal.

In short, I would experiment with different methods of cleaning, but as the responses above suggest, there could be any number of explanations.

Not to hyjack the thread but, Freon (R-12) has been banned from being produced in USA for well over a decade. R-134a, the propellant called out on the spec sheet, was around before 1995. Both used in refrigeration and as a propellant in spray cans. R-134a is toxic and if too much is inhaled will do damage to your lungs. Probably won't be too much of an issue cleaning records but, I wouldn't use it.

Just my .02.

I am curious what the actual cleaning solvent is as the R-134a (the propellant of the solvent) will dissolve within seconds of leaving the can.

This solvent is as active as Freon and was not invented until 2000. I don't think your talking about the same compound. This stuff is EXCELLENT, and safe.

Here is a link to the PDF spec sheet:

http://www.smartdev.com/PS-Premier.pdf

Also the ad-testimonial at Music Direct

http://www.musicdirect.com/product/73874

And last, here is Dupont's page on the active ingredient in Premier, Vertrel CF

http://www2.dupont.com/Vertrel/en_US/

Sanjay,
As you're well aware, the VPI really does nothing as far as cleaning goes, other than offering a platform to place your record, and then a vacuum to revove fluids, and the suspended nasties. But you have jumped over the highest hurdle, buying the RCM, the rest is relatively easy.

The VPI Brush isn't a bad brush, and being Nylon, it will stand up to cleaners containing enzymes, an alcohols.

Brush Pads from Lloyd Walker, AIVS will be of better quality, and will perform better. Brush Pads from Disc Doctor-Mobile Fidelity work very well too, I'm happy with these, but some do note a larger quantity of fluids being used to initially prime them-wet them. Nice thing about these, the pads are replaceable.

Use one dedicated Brush for each step, and label them, to assure you don't mix cleaners with a certain brush.

Yes, if you've read between the lines, you've gathered I am suggesting a multi-step cleaning process, rather than a one step cleaner. A cleaning process such as AIVS 3-step, you first remove any really nasty dust with a CF Brush, place on Platter, begin with the first Enzyme Cleaner, with Platter Spinning apply evenly with brush that the entire surface is covered, but avoid the label area. Now stop the Platter, and let this product sit for 3-5 minutes on average, (don't ever let any product dry on an LP!). If due to dry weather conditions, and you notice evaporation, apply a little more, and this is easy to do with Platter spinning.

After a period of a few minutes, only then you begin scrubbing, cleaning the LP in a back, and forth motion 8-10 times per section, following the grooves, do 1/3rd of the LP, rotate Platter, to do the next 1/3rd, and so on, until the entire LP has been scrubbed. Only then activate vacuum to remove cleaners.

Remove product, and go onto the next step, with its own dedicated brush, and repeat.

Lastly, will be the Pure Water Rinse. Again, use a dedicated Brush, and some even go as far to insure the least amount of cross contamination, they use a entirely different dedicated Arm Wand, (About $60 from VPI) swapping it out, which takes two seconds, for the Pure Water rinse.

Minumum is one good rinse with ultra pure water, and another rinse per side will not hurt anything, and will insure all cleaning products are gone. Do inspect the LP surface after vacuuming. Two revolutions should get the LP virtually dry, more than this can build static, and less will not remove all the rinse with the 16.5 RCM.

Try keeping your Platter clean, when doing the flip side, insure that when done, no fluids have dribbled over onto the cleaned side. I usually use an unscented Kleenex, and hold to to outer bottom edge of LP while platter is rotating with the vacuuming process to insure no dribbles of fluids are left.

Inspect both sides, insure they are totally dry before inserting into Inner Sleeve. Practice makes perfect, but your machine will only work as well as the fluids, and brushes you use, and patient, sensible techniques.
Hope this helps, Mark