Brass door knobs as footers


I was just wondering what you guys think of the possibility of using brass door knobs as footers. My father in law was kind enough to construct a 2" thick oak platform for me, and decided to use the knobs rather than the footers from mapleshaderecords--they look really good. I'm sure the mass is not quite the same, but factoring in the price difference(20$ vs. 100+$) what do you think of the idea?
jmoog08

09-05-07: Ghosthouse
Hello JB53 -
...I've followed many of your posts and if I recall you are running a Denon (103?) with Sumiko headshell that you seem very happy with
You're close. I'm using a Denon, but it's the high output DL160 mounted on the Sumiko HS, tracking at 1.6g.

And I guess I have you to thank on the Dayton speaker cones tip. That $20 certainly improved the sound quality and musical enjoyment a couple of notches.
You are very welcome and glad to have contributed somemthing to someone on Audiogon. This has been a very helpful site to me.

re the vibration "evacuation" concept in practice - it's amazin', ain't it!

Hope we all continue to be able to enjoy the music.
Did any of you using this tweak have a problem with the fitting pulling out of the base of the TT? I was very excited when I read some of the posts on this, but tonight I pulled the fitting out of the TT. The two rear fittings that the studs screw into are loose and seem to pull out before the cone can get flush. Any thoughts? Should I get some shorter studs?
I read someone's post here who dislodged the threaded sleeves from an SL1200 base while screwing in the M6-threaded Mapleshade Heavyfeet. Having read his post, I screwed the Dayton cones in slowly and carefully, and didn't encounter the problem. The vulnerability is that the threaded sleeves are only anchored in the rubber bottom layer.
Hi Gonzo1- No, I did not encounter that problem. The Dayton cone studs were (by memory) shorter than the threaded legs of my stock TT footers. Compare lengths in your case. Are you using a Technics table? Make sure the studs that come with the cones are screwed into the cones as far as possible. My recollection is one one end of the stud is "slotted" for a screwdriver (might be wrong about that). If for some reason your studs are too long - shorter is the fix. People at Parts Express told me the cone stud thread was an "M6 coarse". Should be possible to reseat those fittings and use some kind of glue or perhaps silicone to hold them in place. Hope you get things working.