Will I benefit from upgrading REL subwoofer pair


Hi Audiogoners,

I am only about 4 years into my quality audio journey. As a result, I bought elements of my set up at different times in the journey. Right now, I am using a Lumin T2 feeding a Hegel H390 amp which animate Focal Kanta 2 speakers. All cables upgraded. I also have duel REL Tx/7 subwoofers - which I thought were great until I upgraded my ethernet switch.

This small change lowered the noise floor in my largish (25' x 20') room and suddenly the subs started to sound a little flabby. So I upgraded their hi-level connection to the REL Bassline Blue cables. Much much better. 

But it led me to wonder if I should sell the duel Tx/7 subs and get a single REL S510 (and eventually 2 of the S510s). 

I *think* the speed of the Tx/7 s is sufficient but they may not be a match for the Kanta 2 speakers.... 

Does anyone have any experience with these components? Or advice?

Thanks Nadine

128x128atanarjuat99

I currently have (2) S510s in a smaller room..I thought I was done for some time but I plan on moving to Perlisten...as good or better than Rel reference.Check them out but for sure the T series is not good enough for those Focals in my opinion.

Those are very small subs and your room is large.  I would go for the largest pair of RELs possible.  As you go up their line the drivers actually get faster.  Perlisten get great press.

@atanarjuat99 

Hi Nadine,

You have a complex problem. The largest component of the problem is a large squarish room. The speaker system and room have to be considered as one. Do you sit in a listening position and focus completely on the music or are you using it mostly for background while you do other things? 

@vonhelmholtz 

A drivers "speed" is defined by it's frequency response and volume. Any two drivers of similar size playing the same frequency at the same volume are moving at the same average speed. Twice during a single cycle the driver is at a dead stop. "fast" is not a good way of describing a driver's performance. The terms "dynamic" and "detailed" are better. Muddy bass is usually not the fault of the driver. The three main protagonists are enclosure resonance, poor integration in terms of time alignment and phasing with the main speakers and finally room acoustics.