Duelund conversion to DIY Helix Geometry Cabling


I have been an avid user of the Duelund cabling for over two years now and have used them exclusively in my system with great results. I have built many for friends and have used a full loom of interconnects, speaker cables, power cords and an extensive wiring modification for a previously owned balanced power conditioner utilizing Duelund 600V PolyCast wiring which was transformative. My cabling desires can be a little addictive as I have owned and evaluated 40+ brands of cabling costing more than an entire stereo system!

Over the past six months I stumbled upon a thread here on Audiogon in regards to a Helix designed cabling and as you probably already know, I just had to look a little deeper into this cable design…After a month of studying and sourcing parts, I decided to reach out to the designer/architect, Williewonka who gave more insights and philosophy on how the cable came into existence.

That conversation got the ball rolling in converting one of my KLE Duelund interconnects to Steve’s Helix designed which only entailed replacing the neutral with a Mil-Spec 16 AWG silver-plated copper wire with the neural wire being 3 times longer than the signal wire and of course the “Coiling” of the neutral wire : )

After the modification was complete, I was not sure what to expect from the Helix cabling but I was quite shocked with the results with “ZERO” burn-in time…The sound stage became much wider/deeper with a much tighter/focused image and clarity/transparency is like nothing I have ever heard in any cabling regardless of cost. In fact, I just sold a full loom of a commercially designed Helix Cable that’s renowned around the world and has more direct sale than any cable manufacturer; these $200 DIY Helix Cables walked all over them…

I believe you will hear the same results as I have and have heard back from friends who have already modified their Duelunds with the same results; WOW! Remember the cables will need 200+ hours to burn-in and settle into your system. My system is now 90% DIY Helix to include IC, SC, PC and Coax with each cabling adding its beauty of an organic and natural presentation that draws you into the fabric of the music.

You can tailor the sound of your cables using Duelund, Mundorf silver/1% gold, the outstanding Vh Audio OCC Solid Copper or Silver with Airlok Insulation or your favorite wiring and you can change it at any time…

 

http://www.image99.net/blog/files/category-diy-cables.html

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/difference-in-sound-between-copper-and-silver-digital-cables

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/adding-shielding-to-existing-cables

 

Enjoy,

Wig


128x128wig

I eagerly await the report on the PC Triple C XLR Build that is imminently to be produced by @mbolek 

This is where my interest lies and it will be good to see the Pioneer Wire used for the Cable produced and put to service. 

The Ultimate Helix DIY Cable - Update - i.e. after 200 hours Break-in!

The two "Ultimate" cables were constructed much the same as the normal Helix Air cables with the following "variation"

  • Both cables used 2 x 20 gauge UP-OCC solid Silver wires, each wire inside Teflon tubes for the Signal conductor
  • The Double/Double cable had 2 x 18 gauge UP-OCC solid copper with each wire inside Teflon tubes for the neutral
    • and previouslty used Absolute Harmony RCA plugs
  • the Double/Single cable had 1 x 16 gauge UP-OCC solid copper with Teflon insulation for the neutral
    • and brand new Absolute Harmony RCA plugs

Even during initial listening sessions these cables sounded amazingly good and it was very hard to distinguish anything between them i.e. on my system.

They have now both had about 200 hours of use and I find it difficult to discern any improvements compared to their initial auditions.

  • Both cables are sounding amazingly detailed and airy.
  • Both cables sound identical

So breaking down their performance...

Dynmics

  • amazingly fast, with more textures being revealed with a fuller sound i.e. more "body"
  • percussion instruments, e.g. gongs, cymbals, glockenspeil, xylophone etc. have more details of the initial strike and far more textures in the decay
  • plucked instruments are especially more realistic as the string is being plucked

Image

  • a more expansive image (in every direction) that envelops the listening position and spreads through both width, depth and height
  • more easily discernible "layers" within the music that allows instruments and artists to be more easilty distinguished within the image
  • the image now provides that sense of grandeur that large venues posess
    • this is very apparent when playing pipe organ music recorded live in a church or cathedral

Clarity and details

  • not only are there more details within the image, but micro details like the fingernail plucking at the guitar or harp strings and the strings buzzing against the guitar fret board are easily heard
  • Voculs sound fuller and more complete - they have more body and the whispery aspect of a vocal is even more detailed and discernible.

These cables "persuaded me" to go through my albums searching out details never before heard

  • older albums circa 1960-1970 revealed deatils that were shockingly good for the time
  • newer albums sounded even more astounding
  • studio albums had a more life like aire to them
  • Live albums transport you right into the venue

These cables are well worth the expense of the 5N solid silver UP-OCC bare wire.

But as it turns out - the Double/Single, that uses 1 x 16 gauge UP-OCC wire with Teflon insulation for the neutral sounds every bit s good as the Double/Double, with  2 x 18 gauge wire (in Teflon tubes) - so it is more affordable and easier to construct.

  • But that is on my system and with my OLD EARS to gauge their performance
  • you might want to try the Double/Double if your system is highly resolving, because it might just reveal details that the Double/Single may omit.

That’s about it - give them a try - I don’t think you will dissapointed

Regards - Steve

Hi Steve,

For clarity, are you using the Neotech or the 5N 20 AWG wire? Cost of the latter is half of the Neotech. Don’t know what justifies it aside from the sleeving which will need to be stripped anyway.

Also, how’s the cable stiffness between the single and double neutral assembly?

Cheers

Daniel

 

@norco74 - these are the wires I used on the two Ultimate DIY Helix Cables

For the 1 x 16 gauge Neutral wire on the Double/Single cable:

For the 2 x 18 gauge neutral wire on the Double/Double cable:

For the 2 x 20 gauge Signal Wires on BOTH cables

Strangely, I had not noticed the price difference because I was always more focussed on other aspects of the build - so...

  • you could employ the same technique as used on the neutral wire of the Double/Double cable
    • i.e. of using 1 x 16 gauge bare wire in Teflon tube for the neutral of the Double/Single cable.in place of the Neotech insulated wire
  • it does require s little more care when winding the neutral coil
  • it will perform equally as well as the insulated wire.
  • Use a tube that has an internal diameter 25% - 30% larger than the diameter of the wire.

In listening test performed with an earlier cable,

  • I compared two signal wires...
    • the Neotech wire with the insulation removed inside a Teflon tube
    • the bare wire of identical gauge inside a Teflon tube
  • I found I preferred the Bare Wire
    • but the differences were miniscule

Hope that clarifies everyrthing

Regards - Steve

@norco74 - forgt to comment on

Also, how’s the cable stiffness between the single and double neutral assembly?

There is little difference in cable stiffness because you are not actually bending the wire in the neutral - The neutral is like a spring so flexes more easily

Doubling up on the neutral causes very little additional stiffness.

Regards - Steve