SME 30/2 Controller


Looking to get some questions answered regarding a 2004 30/2 turntable. The controller has the knob instead of push buttons and I believe it to be the 2nd generation as the box is longer format. Does the latest controller work with the existing motor?

 The O-Rings are original and the table has been in the box unused since 2009. Is a belt and new rings needed because of age?

 The platter is the mustard/green color but it seems that it was not a change other than color.

 If anyone knows pricing please enlighten me!

 Thanks for any help.

hifipf

Surprising you have the newer grey/black platter color on a unit with original power supply form. Maybe someone changed out the platter?

Even filling one tower will require the entire subchassis come off. You’ll see how clever the damping fluid design is, you have the inverted cup with a normally unseen inner part sitting in the fluid that is held by the upright cup, if you see what I mean. You can’t see any of this with an assembled unit. This is one nice side-effect of having to strip the unit down, I learned something in the process.

What I still don’t quite understand is how the manual states that raising the sub-chassis increases isolation. i would have thought with less material in the fluid, that would gives rise to less damping/isolation. Anyone enlighten me there?

I think Koetsu cartridges are of a height that requires a 1/4in shim between headshell and cartridge. I know Analogue Seduction in the UK sell it, 34 UKP I think. US dealers can likely get it too, Acoustic Sounds prob best bet.

I for one would be very interested in your experience with a Koetsu on the 30/V.  I have thought about getting one myself, but am now erring on the side of moving up the Dynavector range to an XX2.  I run the Dynavector 200 SUT, so staying with their carts makes sense to me.

 

 

I’ve run many Koetsu models on the 9” Magnesium SME tonearms with no issues or spacers required, although the heavier stone bodies prefer the heavier counterweight instead of the lighter original hanging way out away from the pivot. If a headshell spacer is required then its likely to be a case of the cueing cylinder not being set low enough at its lowered position. If the fluid damper is available (Series IV.Vi & Series V), some cases call for just a delicate “dip of the toe” of the paddle tip into the fluid for solidifying the image without over damping.

Dynavector, is also an excellent choice, especially when going above their first two models.

 I tend to agree with your turntable suspension damping thought about increasing the gap provides less suspension damping.

I have already taken the sub-chassis apart to see where the fluid came from. I think I can get enough gap with a syringe and a rubber hose end to add to my dash pot. 
Regarding height and isolation no clue! I’ll just set it to the spacer level. 
 The mystery for me is the effect a new controller would have presented.SME will not sell controllers so it’s a mute point. Personally not allowing end users updates or upgrades is insane.  
 It’s SME’s decision but giving up revenue stream seems to be a poor decision.  Not only does it cost them on bottom line but, I think end users will begin to jump ship. 

Fluid damper of the tonearms is of course different from the turntable suspension dashpots.

Reading the 30/2 manual makes it obvious that the turntable’s dashpot damping increases rigidity. Less damping by their “up to 2mm” recommendation will make the upper subchassis less rigid, providing for an increase in isolation for severe situations.

More critical thinking reveals that damping does not equate to isolation here.