@mijostyn it does go low. The difference is the proper tuned cabinet and good cloth surround efficient speakers make for yummy bass without all that excursion that tends to add distortion also. Bass seems to be enjoyed by most in two flavors. One is crisp and clean sound like what you would hear in person. The other is a sort of club thump that is not as accurate but appeals to many. It makes my ears hurt just thinking about what you describe and that is not what I am seeking at all.
You Cant Buy It but you Can Build It
One of the things, well the primary audio thing that fascinates and pleases me to no end is superlative hand built systems. Not from boutique vendors but from audiophiles who want something they can't find on a shelf or buy.
I am a minimalist and figure the fewer devices needed to get to great fidelity the better. I am in the camp that feels if you have to have a lot of devices or fancy exotic things in your audio stream then you began with the wrong speakers.
My system consists of a Dell Workstation PC with the hi def Realtek driver installed. 1/8" jack out to XLR to either a Xilica XP3060 if the speakers need DSP and bi-amping or straight to the amp. From the Crown XLI800 amps to the speakers and that is it. 12gage zip cord from amps to speakers and crimp fork end connectors.
The speakers are two way and consist of the following. A Klipsch K-402 horn with Klipsch 1132 drivers with the latest version phase plugs is the HF side of things. crossover point is 650 and 12db Linkwitz Riley with four PEQ's and gain set in the Xilica. Driver is full output to just over 18khz which is past where most of us can hear anyway.
The LF bass bin is a horn derived from the Klipsch MCM 1900 MWM single fold bass bin. This bin was altered to have a 60" depth and 60" mouth (minus 17" in the middle for the woofer plenum) and 18" chamber ht ID and to have a true 108" throat depth. Constructed out of 25mm Baltic Birch. Has a single K-43-K Klipsch woofer in there and goes down to 27hz before serious drop off starts. I have not figured out the exact DB efficiency of this system but figure it is somewhere north of 105db. There are four PEQ's and gain setting from the xilica for this bass bin also.
What started this whole thing was I wanted to hear Bach Pipe Organ music like I was right there and the same for Cello chamber music. Or Japanese Fireworks or any thing else I could find of high fidelity that interested me. I have grown to like most things recorded well that I can find. Key here was life like reproduction as close as I could get using things I have heard in person as reference points. If the fireworks would impact me in person with a felt boom along with sound I wanted that. If the 32' pipe made things move around on table tops I wanted that. Now I rarely play at those volumes but if I want to I can. But I also wanted the true to life definition that would have accompanied this just like real life. I did not want someones idea of signature sound I wanted realism. Once the PEQ's are set I do not fiddle with PC EQ and leave it flat all the time.
As a pure all horn system sound reproduction is effortless and the headroom creates superb sound at 75db as well as 105db and up if you care to go there. The Crown XLI800's are solid state and 200 watts per channel. I leave them up half way and adjust the rest with the PC sound card control which rarely goes above 50%.
Total cost to build using todays prices and all new components would be about $7400. Frugal shopping for electronics will save you off that. My actual cost after hunting for a year of so was under $4000.
Now a word about tube amps and DACs and all that stuff. The Xilica has the ability to basically tailor sound for almost any effect, if you take the time to learn to do so. Along the way you end up having to get Room Equalizer Wizard, or REW, which is free software for analyzing sound using your laptop and a calibrated UMike. These active DSP systems are NOT plug and play.
Not all PC's will give you great fidelity. My Dell happens to be one of those fortunately. If you go this route make sure you download the latest Hi-Def driver for your sound card. If I was not happy with the sound card, or suspected it to not be good, I would get an aftermarket one.
Peer validation is always nice and the stream of repeat visitors I have lets me know the pieces to this puzzle worked out well. I quit my search for better when I got these dialed in.
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I have been a long time advocate of DIY with regards to speakers. There are so many great, very high end level speaker kits available, by well respected designers. The end results are almost guaranteed to best the sound of commercially available speakers that would cost at least 5 times as much. Designers such as: (the late) Jeff Bagby, Jim Holtz and Curt Campbell, Troel Graveson, Javad Shadzi, Paul Carmody, and quite a few more, have various kits, that easily rival high end speakers. I am currently using a pair of Jeff Bagby’s "Auricle" speakers (RAAL tweeter, 6" SB Acoustics Sartori mid), sitting on a pair of Jeff’s woofer modules (10" SB Acoustics Sartori woofer). And a DIY powered sub. I have about $2100 spent on the speakers (without sub) for the kits, the wood, the veneer, and miscellaneous parts. I have heard enough $10,000 speakers, to know, that my speakers sound as good. I also lined the inside of the enclosures with mass loaded vinyl, and the front baffle is built using simple but effective constrained layer damping. |
@simonmoon That is my experience too although I designed and built the box for my double 12" woofer + horn speaker. 25MM Baltic Birch box + drivers and for a bit over 1G I have something that beats the doo doo out of 24G speakers I hear at the Nashville fancy speaker store. I used acoustic foam in my box as I was more concerned about standing waves and not box resonance. |
I believe the OP asked which Dell computer I had problems with. It is a XPS 8030, custom configured. I replaced the chintzy 370 watt power supply that Dell put in a $2700.00+ computer with a state of the art 800 watt power supply. I had lots of trouble when I was running a few programs and the computer would run out of power, causing it to reboot many times and then it didn't any more. I had paid $400.00 extra for their best soundcard and it still sounded like junk. I will never, ever buy another Dell. |
@mahlman -- "If pure sound quality was the metric they use I can only think they have not heard such a system. I suspect however that there is a lot of snobery involved and it is just "not possible" that serious hobbiests can build better than the high end audio store offerings." "High-end" audio is a genre, even; it is as much defined by character and limitations as it cultivates certain virtues in reproduction, while not least being overly expensive. Our "playground" would seem to challenge the narrative of audiophiles-at-large that it’s moved outside their field of interest. Indeed, one can only do so much to get them to assess with an open mind, if they ever meet up. I have about lost interest in 15" woofers which just don’t sound as tight to me as a good 12". Impacts on percussion are sharper and realistic acoustic string resonance is more defined for example." My preferred surround types are cloth and foam. Foam is very low loss and more modern foams last up to about 25 years. Cloth is also very good, lasts longer, but is usually best at limited excursion (as in your case). Rubber I try to avoid, and has for some time now. @mijostyn -- "... use a USB DAC or a USB to SPDIF converter to a DAC." There are other ways, equally well or better sounding to my ears. |
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