Maggies with a subwoofer system - optimization?

This sounds like what the OP is looking for. Video based on LRS but the basics apply

https://youtu.be/FvPmfhBZHWs 

Start at 23:28 

May I suggest  an 80-100 Hz crossover with the maggies? I used such on Model II, 1.7i, and LRS. Midrange clarity may improve if you have been playing it loud. Use music you normally listen to at a normal volume to adjust the volume level of the subwoofer. Enjoy!

I was unable to realize the full potential of my Magnepan 1.6QR until I bypassed the factory crossovers and replaced them with a Marchand tube electronic x-over in a bi-amplification arrangement using a Carver 275 and a pair of Carver 350 monoblocks.  To this I added one ML 800 sub with a plan to add three more.  The results, so far, have been amazing.

1.7i’s have a major peak at 70 hz, which is why people have a hard time matching subs to them.

The important thing here is to stop the bass going to your amp, something as simple as Harrison F Mods can do that inline, which are inexpensive, just like a preamp would with a small filter, and so your amp will not waste any energy throwing watts into to your speakers that they cannot reproduce in the first place, plus a little extra by adjusting that up to 80-100 hz.

You will find that it is much easier to integrate the subs smoothly by knocking off the 70 hz spike.

Yes, the mid bass and midrange will improve when the deformation of the diaphragm of the panels is not reproducing as much bass, since the membrane is not traveling as far on the bass notes away from the magnets, which causes distortion in the upper frequencies by trying to reproduce those with fluctuating Tesla units. 

What makes a ribbon and AMT drivers so accurate, the the surface of the sound source between magnets, a relatively constant magnetic field, makes panels so finicky, the surface in front of the magnets, creating a variable energy field. 

Mathematically this is significant, as the energy increases and losses are squared with distance from the magnets.

A First Watt B5 will fix the issue. External Crossover

It features a two pole (12 dB/oct) low pass filter variable from 20 to 300 Hz in 20 Hz steps, and a high pass filter with 1 or 2 poles (6 or 12 dB/oct) which is also variable from 20 to 300 Hz in 20 Hz steps.

The woofer channel also has a 2 pole high pass filter for the woofer with a 6 dB equalization “bump” at 20 Hz. This is useful for extracting a bit more output at the bottom of the audio range of any loudspeaker, particularly open baffles, and functions as a subsonic filter below 15 Hz.

The full range high pass channel offers choices of shelving equalization curve (also known as “baffle step correction”) for full range drivers, variable from 250 Hz to 2.5 Khz with shelving at 0, -2, -4, -6 and -8 dB.

The active circuits are JFET buffers, most of them simple source followers without feedback. The distortion and noise are quite low, and the bandwidth is very wide.

I have one. They are around. Pass quality, no frills or hair raising looks.

FULL of WiMa caps and Vishay copper resistors. Single ended input and output. Separate dinky doo PS. That one I haven't figured out yet. BUT it's very quiet and it's a Pass design.. There is a lot of quality there.

1 - 1500.00 used only. You can talk him into making you one though.

Cool thing is it dosen't mess with impedance on the passive xo. Adding anything on the speaker cable side "WILL" mess with the factory XO, you have to be careful there..

IF you want a great option.. FW B5, The B4 should work.. 3 way if I remember.

Regards