Bi-wire changes for non bi-wire speakers


Currently have speakers bi-wired from integrated amp. Four banana plugs at the amp, one for each of the two combined wires; four sets of banana plugs at each speaker.

I want to audition speakers that cannot accept bi-wiring. Any problem with just connecting two banana plugs at each of the speakers and leaving the other two disconnected?

Thanks.

  GAR
gareents
For quick audition purposes, so what; but if you've got cables that are internally bi-wired, you'll only be using half the cable if you only connect up one pair of plugs at the speaker.  Match the cable to the speaker, not the other way around.
Hello,
First, Do what FatDaddy said.

Second, you can have speaker cable re-terminated. Usually the amplifier end has either two spades or two bananas because usually amp speaker posts are running parallel or are the same unless they have an AB button. I still prefer to use just one set since it is technically one channel of amplification. On the speaker end it is Ok to have them split for the two sets of terminals. There is an issue of you are only using half the gauge of wire for each sets of termination. This is usually ok for the top end on speakers but ends up starving the bass woofer or bottom end. Spades really make the best connection but some bananas like Straightwire and Nordost make a lot of contact and are tight on their choice of bananas. If you are having them redone the do it this way but have all of the wire go as two and two and or two two four but have one set on the speaker side be banana and the other spades so you have more ways to connect regardless of the speaker since you can put the spades and the banana on at the same time. I prefer a single set to single set and get a jumper to go from the low binding posts to the high binding posts. This way you have maximum gauge going to the woofers and the jumpers go to the tweeters. 

Third, you can get adapters that convert bananas to spade or spade to banana. Monster and Cardas both make them. I say have someone who solders redo them for you in the way I said above. My choice of jumpers are the Nordost but they are $175 for a set but have used them on speakers all the way past $20,000. Get ones with spades on one end and banana on the other end for complete versatility as I said above. Sorry so long but gauge matters. If it didn’t we would all use telephone wire. 
If it reduces the resistance between the amp and speakers it can be useful. Get some silver jumpers for your current speakers or go full bi-amp with active crossover. You will notice a big improvement by eliminating the passive internal speaker crossovers.  
Bi-Wire is not senseless is done correctly. The idea of bi-wiring is to let you use ttwo or more different types of wire to let you have more versatility when wiring the top end of sound from the bottom end of sound. I.E using a 14 AWG on the top and using a 10 AWG on the bottom or bass end. Or maybe you want to add silver on the high but only straight copper on the bass or woofers. If you don’t believe and have a bi-wireable speaker try it. It does work because some cable manufacturers do this. Also, the range the size of the cable in the same sheath. We all have friends with different speaker cables or have an extra cable laying around. Try this, it does work for better or worse. I am doing this by using Nordost jumpers. The main copper cable goes to the woofers and I use the Nordost silver over copper jumpers to the top. The sound has strong bass, sweet mids, and highs that make everything sound real and sometimes even live. I shop at this local store in the Chicagoland area that lets you try before you buy. You can test this for yourself. https://holmaudio.com/
The cable co let’s you buy and then return.
Mike from 11stereo will go to your house with his veristar cables. https://www.11stereo.com/
Seriously, try this out.