Duelund conversion to DIY Helix Geometry Cabling


I have been an avid user of the Duelund cabling for over two years now and have used them exclusively in my system with great results. I have built many for friends and have used a full loom of interconnects, speaker cables, power cords and an extensive wiring modification for a previously owned balanced power conditioner utilizing Duelund 600V PolyCast wiring which was transformative. My cabling desires can be a little addictive as I have owned and evaluated 40+ brands of cabling costing more than an entire stereo system!

Over the past six months I stumbled upon a thread here on Audiogon in regards to a Helix designed cabling and as you probably already know, I just had to look a little deeper into this cable design…After a month of studying and sourcing parts, I decided to reach out to the designer/architect, Williewonka who gave more insights and philosophy on how the cable came into existence.

That conversation got the ball rolling in converting one of my KLE Duelund interconnects to Steve’s Helix designed which only entailed replacing the neutral with a Mil-Spec 16 AWG silver-plated copper wire with the neural wire being 3 times longer than the signal wire and of course the “Coiling” of the neutral wire : )

After the modification was complete, I was not sure what to expect from the Helix cabling but I was quite shocked with the results with “ZERO” burn-in time…The sound stage became much wider/deeper with a much tighter/focused image and clarity/transparency is like nothing I have ever heard in any cabling regardless of cost. In fact, I just sold a full loom of a commercially designed Helix Cable that’s renowned around the world and has more direct sale than any cable manufacturer; these $200 DIY Helix Cables walked all over them…

I believe you will hear the same results as I have and have heard back from friends who have already modified their Duelunds with the same results; WOW! Remember the cables will need 200+ hours to burn-in and settle into your system. My system is now 90% DIY Helix to include IC, SC, PC and Coax with each cabling adding its beauty of an organic and natural presentation that draws you into the fabric of the music.

You can tailor the sound of your cables using Duelund, Mundorf silver/1% gold, the outstanding Vh Audio OCC Solid Copper or Silver with Airlok Insulation or your favorite wiring and you can change it at any time…

 

http://www.image99.net/blog/files/category-diy-cables.html

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/difference-in-sound-between-copper-and-silver-digital-cables

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/adding-shielding-to-existing-cables

 

Enjoy,

Wig


128x128wig
HELIX IMAGE (Air) power cable update - from my earlier post dated 02-14-2021 8:05am above

So the wire arrived this week for my 2 x 16 gauge version of the Helix IMAGE (Air) power cable and I’ve had the cables in the system for a couple of days burning in but the improvements where noticeable from the first track.

The old cables had 1 x 12 gauge BARE Neotech UP=OCC solid copper inside Teflon tube with cotton sleeve.

The new cables have 2 x 16 gauge BARE Neotech UP=OCC solid copper twisted together inside Teflon tube with cotton sleeve. The Teflon tube was the same diameter as on the 1 x 12 gauge version
i.e.
PTFE 10 Tubing - Thin Wall Teflon Tubing In A Variety Of Gauges - (takefiveaudio.com)

Since I was just upgrading the existing cables the Neutral remain unchanged - 2 x 12 gauge silver plated mil-spec stranded copper

Well, the Schroeder Double Barrel approach has triumphed yet again !

The improved articulation of the music was the most noticeable, with a more expansive image, where the placement of the instruments just seemed to be very precise, with pinpoint accuracy. The old 1 x 12 power cables were very good, just not THIS good.

There now seems to be more layers I had not noticed before and on some tracks I now hear little things e.g. bell strikes that I had not noticed before - so clarity had improved also.

As I listened, there was a nice smoothness to the upper end, especially the violins. The mid’s had a nice natural fullness to them and the bass went deeper but again with even more textures than previous iterations of the cables.

By comparison, the older cables makes me think they were perhaps a little on the "Clinical" side, because I very much like this new warmth.

Will the 2 x 16 gauge version work for Amps?
  • right now, this appears to improve the low end a little
  • however, the improvements over the existing 1 x 12 gauge version were no where near as apparent as with the source components
  • I think I will move to a 2 x 14 gauge version for the amp to see if it yields any significant improvements.
The difference in findings between the source components and the amp is no real surprise.
Since my Bryston B135 amp has seperate transformers/power supplies for PRE-Amp and L & R channels. Whereas the power supplies in my source components are not of the same ablity.

I chose 2 x 16 gauge simply because it fit into this Teflon Tube that I had on hand

So why does 2 x 16 work better than 1 x 12 ???
Here’s an extract from the article in this link...
electricity - Do electrons jump from one wire to another if they are of different materials? - Physics Stack Exchange

If electrons were not able to flow between two different conductors in contact with one another, we would not be able to make any connections in an electrical circuit that feeds loads. So obviously they can flow between conductors in contact with one another (twisted,or otherwise).

The term "jump" invokes the wrong impression that electrons need to leap through the air from one conductor to another, although as explained below arcing is possible at the conductor interface.

Although electrons don’t have to "jump" between the conductors, it is more difficult for electrons to cross between two physically different conductors due to microscopic irregularities at the contact surfaces with points of contact and areas of non contact. Overall, this gives rise to what is referred to as contact resistance at the interface. Contact resistance, which is greater than the resistance of the conductor themselves,

So taking this into account, even IF the two wires ARE touching it is "almost as if" they were insulated from each other until they reach the ends, where the solder provide a better "path" for electrons to move across

So then, with two strands of wire twisted together - the impedance of the "conductor" is half that of a single wire.

But the conundrum here is - why aren’t 4 wires even better?

I have tried 4 x 18 gauge VH Audio UPP-OCC copper in AirLok insulation (effectively a 12 gauge cable) and it was not as good as the 1 x 12 gauge in Teflon, but of all the combinations tried 2 x 12 seems superior - strange ???

Getting the very best out of the Helix IMAGE (Air) Power cables is very much dependent on the components in the system.

You could opt for a single "architecture" e.g. 2 x 14 gauge Bare wire inside Teflon for all power cables.

You may opt to insert each wire inside it’s own teflon tube or twist them together inside a single tube

Personally - i am going to stick with the 2 x 16 gauge in a single tube for Source components.

And perhaps a 2 x 14 gauge bare wire twisted together inside this larger teflon tube
Convoluted Teflon Tubing - Convoluted Teflon Tubing Flexes Without Kinking - (takefiveaudio.com)

As always - I will keep you updated on the outcome

But try the Double Shotgun method - it works - REALLY WELL !!!

Cheers - Steve

@williewonka

Steve, just for clarification on these pc’s. You are using 2x16g wires in their own teflon tube for the hot/line and 2x16g wires in their own teflon tube for the neutral and 2x16g mil spec wires for the ground?

Thomas

Sorry, I just looked again at your image page and see what the design is. Trying to wrap my head around all the designs of each of the cables is a bit daunting at the moment but once I start building things will get clearer.
I have been meaning to make these cables (at least the speaker cables) for a long time. I have been following the thread. Steve and others have put so much work and time for everyone. THANK YOU.

I feel like things got confusing lately though when new cable options were talked about. I wonder if is there anyway to update the cable selection on your website Steve? I feel bad asking you this when you put too much effort already.
@celo - apart from this very latest update the web site is up to date - Including how to build the HELIX IMAGE (Air) variant.

1. HELIX IMAGE POWER CABLE:
GROUND CONDUCTOR is 12 gauge stranded wire from any hardware store

NEUTRAL CONDUCTOR is 2 x 12 gauge stranded silver plated Mil-Spec wire

the LIVE WIRE CAN BE ANY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING depending on your own preferences and in descending order of performance
  1. 1 x 12 gauge Neotech UP-OCC solid copper (i.e. the best perofrmance)
  2. 4 x 18 gauge VH Audio UP-OCC solid copper
  3. 1 x 12 gauge Duelund wire with the Polymer insulation (IF FLEXING IS AN ISSUE)
  4. 1 x 12 gauge Mil-spec stranded wire from Take Five audio - A LOW BUDGET VERSION  

2. HELIX IMAGE (Air) POWER CABLE
Ground wire is 12 gauge stranded wire from any hardware store

Neutral is 2 x 12 gauge stranded silver plated Mil-Spec wire

LIVE WIRE CAN BE ANY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING depending on your own preferences and in descending order of performance
  1. 2 x 16 gauge Neotech UP-OCC copper, BARE WIRE - twisted together inside a single Teflon Tube - EXCELLENT FOR SOURCE COMPONENTS
  2. 1 x 12 gauge  Neotech UP-OCC copper, BARE - inside a single Teflon Tube - EXCELLENT FOR HEAVIER DUTY APPLICATIONS like amps and power conditioners
Although I have not tried it to date I believe a 2 x 14 gauge  Neotech UP-OCC copper, BARE WIRE - inside a single Teflon Tube should prove to be slightly better than the 1 x 12 gauge version

IF you amp is over 600 watts I would probably consider using a   2 x 12 gauge Neotech UP-OCC copper, BARE WIRE - inside a single Teflon Tube

PLEASE NOTE: - these are my preferences to date.

Any other variants discussed in this thread are preferences of other members and I DO NOT track those because it would be very complex.

But I do try to incorporate some ideas discussed here - like the Double Shotgun approach

Hope that helps - Steve
@t_ramey -

For the HELIX IMAGE POWER CABLE and the HELIX IMAGE (Air) POWER CABLES
:
GROUND CONDUCTOR is 1x 12 gauge stranded wire from any hardware store

NEUTRAL CONDUCTOR is 2 x 12 gauge stranded silver plated Mil-Spec wire

The Live conductor is the only one that varies - please see previous post immediately above this one

Regards - Steve