Klipsch Chorus II for $600, yes or no?


Who has these speakers and do you think this is a good price? I know they sound amazing but value wise, could I do better for $600?
They are in mint condition, cosmetically and apparently (haven't heard them yet) the speakers are also in very good condition for their age.

I'm quite keen on getting them, just need a nudge from a couple of people who may know them better than me.

I've had (and still own some) Boston Acoustics, Monitor Audio Gold 10s, B&W 683s and 602s, DBX SF-150s, Bose 301s and I've heard and like the Klipsch KG4s
mangist
Yes, $600.00 in good shape is a very good price.  As far as refreshing crossovers with new caps, make sure it is needed before purchasing new ones or even just new caps.  Previous owner may have already performed the update.

Bill
Going to pick them up tonight. Thank you very much for the advice. Will be looking into the crossover recap/rebuild. I am comfortable with soldering electronic components and reading schematics. Never tested a capacitor before so I'll need to lookup how to do that properly.
Mangist,
If you go to the Klipsch forum there is a member named Moray James. He has posted extensively on Klipsch mods. I did them all on my Forte I.

-Deaden horn bodies and woofer struts with dynamat or a substitute. A car renovation shop often will have a generic Dynamat that you can buy much cheaper, in a sheet. I used a 2”x2” piece on the inner and outer aspect of EACH strut on the Forte woofers. You’ll probably need 3”x3” or slightly larger on the 15” Chorus woofer struts. Fit one, precut the rest, and lay them out. Makes it quick and easy.

-On the outside chance you are in So Cal I can give you some spare Dynamat I have left over.

-On the horn bodies, leave about a 1/2” space b/t the front flange of the horn body and your matting so they fit back in properly. Otherwise the front cabinet baffle gets in the way.

-Brace cabinets with three 1”x3” wood struts going from front to back. Again, get a good first piece and them pre-cut the others. Some people screw them in to draw the cabinet together (not unlike Monitor Audio’s use of a single long screw going from the back of the cabinet to the center of the driver motor). You don’t have to do that. Just get a tight fit and use Gorilla Glue, which expands substantially as it dries. Put one brace centered between mid and tweeter (laid flat so it doesn’t get in way of horn bodies, and two-oriented upright on either side of the woofer-but spaced slightly wide between woofer and mid.
I used a small level and a rubber mallet to tap each piece into proper orientation.

-add a little weight to the back of the passive woofer, a 2oz washer on the Forte passive tunes it down even lower. Moray could advise on the Chorus.

-Get titanium replacement diaphragms from Bob Crites for the tweeters, smooths them out. 15 minute job and not costly.
-Bob also sells matched Sonicap capacitors for the crossover, again very affordable. I initially did a recap but a problem with one of them (I didn’t notice the original owner had mixed and matched Forte I and Forte II crossovers!) led me to buy the entire crossovers from Bob. Don’t even hassle with testing the old caps. Just get the ones from Bob. He’ll prematch them. Bob ships immediately and uses priority mail, so you would get the parts quickly. I’d order them today and have them by Saturday if I were you.

Go ahead and seal the rubber grill grommets with some silicon. You know you have a good seal if you can gently push on the front woofer and see a response on the passive.

As @Mahlman notes, there are a lot of easy mods. For probaly under $900 your modded Chorus will go toe-to-toe against $5-8k speakers. I’ve had my modded Forte in a shootout with the big boys, and it was usually a win, at worst a draw between comparably good but different “flavored” speakers.

All hail PWK.
@rmclain Thank you! I really appreciate you taking the time to write that out. I have been reading since I found the Chorus II and I think I will do all of those suggestions. I want to hear them "stock" first so I can make a good comparison of the before and after mods.

I'm pretty excited.
The only issue was when I CUT THE END OF MY THUMB OFF DIAGONALLY with a table saw when modding stands mounted on casters!

My wife was at a lady’s wine party across the street and I show up with my hand in a towel, blood splattered across my face, and a piece of thumb on my shirt. I didn’t know how I looked, but figured it wasn’t good when my neighbor, who is Chinese-American, actually got very pale and wobbled in her tracks.

So, I get to the ER, sure I’ll lose my thumb to the first knuckle. I was the 3rd or 4th guy in there with a home improvement hand injury at the same time. The crazy part: since I only went halfway through the bone, IT GREW BACK. Like a lizard tail.

The doctor says, “let’s stitch it up and see if it reestablishes itself.” I actually laughed.... I said, “reestablishes itself? You mean like a business?” I was really only worried in that I’m a pretty dedicated rock climber, and wondered how I might climb with half a thumb. That said, I only took two weeks off and climbed open-handed on four fingers and a hard thumb splint two weeks later. Tommy Caldwell, one of the best climbers in the world, cut off his index finger with a table saw....

The end of my thumb is about 1/4” shorter and mostly scar tissue, but it isn’t noticeable. However I cannot swipe a smart phone with that thumb as the screen doesn’t recognize it, and it doesn’t have much feeling.

Last, even if you are ‘only going to make a “quick and simple cut,” don’t get complacent!