Romex and breaker switches


I did a search and have read previous posts, but I still have some questions. I had an electrician install dedicated lines in my listening room when we built our house 20 years ago. I bought simple hospital grade outlets from a big box store and did not specify the gauge of the romex or anything else. I need to clear out my dedicated listening room soon for new hardwood to be installed and figured now would be a good time to revisit and improve my dedicated lines. I have already bought a pair of Oyaide R1 duplexes and intend to have them installed side by side behind my equipment rack. My question is-is there a particular variation of 10 gauge romex that would be best? I have looked and there are quite a few variations including 10-2 and 10-3 and I have no idea what to buy or for that matter, if some other wire that would do the job and not be prohibitively expensive presents a better option. I will need a 20 foot run for each duplex. Also, can someone help me as to whether the breaker switch on my panel matters much and whether I should opt for 20A, 30A, or other? I now know that all runs from my duplexes to the panel should be to the same leg. I will make sure that happens. Any other recommendations or advice about romex/wire to use and breaker switches given my decision to go with Oyaide R1's would be most appreciated. 
128x128fsonicsmith
Why would anyone need 7 dedicated lines in one room? That is ridiculous!
I am asking out of ignorance and respectfully seeking advice from those with experience installing dedicated lines to improve sound performance. I warmly welcome constructive criticism, but telling me something is ridiculous doesn't help much without explaining why or suggesting what I should do instead.

I suspect the builder of our modest two-storey house probably installed the minimum number of circuits. So, for instance, on the single circuit for our living room, we're running a MicroSun floor lamp, the blower for the gas fireplace insert, a single 18" Velodyne subwoofer, a 65" Samsung plasma television, a Tivo DVR from our cable provider, an Onkyo receiver used as a surround preamp, a Muse Model 100 amp for the large Tannoy center channel speaker on which the TV sits, and an Acurus A150 for the two surround speakers (yet to be installed). In addition, the same circuit powers our current primary stereo: a Wadia 781 CD player, an Audio Research LS-15 (tubed line-level) preamp and a beefy Levinson 431 amp driving Genesis III full-range floor-standing speakers, which also serve as the main L/R for surround sound. We utilize a couple of power conditioners to protect and provide more outlets, one in the main stack and one one in the surround stack. When we hook up the surround L/R signal to the main system via the LS-15, is there any surprise that we pick up a low-level 60 Hz hum? The result is that we rarely use the surround system and utilize the primary stereo for listening only to music. We have about 2,000 CDs, roughly 95% of which are classical music.

The primary system sounds glorious, especially with well-recorded CDs. At an average cost to us of about $17 per CD over the past three decades of collecting, our goal has been to make them sound as good as possible. Our main system is sometimes too revealing of the original source, so we have a second system in our bedroom upstairs that is more forgiving: again, a Wadia CD, Audio Research preamp and a Levinson amp driving a pair of ProAc EBS speakers. The older British ProAcs provide no imaging at all but fill the room with beautiful music, no matter how limited the original recording. I suspect this is due to roll-off at higher frequencies, where 20- to 30-year old CDs can sometimes sound shrill and artificial.

Back on topic, if I have my house's wiring replaced (or even just add several new lines), I'd expect to get a new, much larger panel to accommodate the dedicated outlets, not only for the living room but possibly for two or three other rooms as well, as there is too much load on the existing circuits. Our old panel is getting rusty, and the breakers are available to anyone who walks up our driveway and around the corner of the garage. My main questions are whether it is legal and practical to run dedicated lines for the living room on the *outside* of the house (where there is no attic access), whether each outside line would require its own metal or PVC tubing from the new panel, and how many dedicated lines I actually need, given the above components and considerations. What should have its own dedicated line and why?

Thank you to everyone for your help and advice. I'm always amazed by and grateful for the depth of knowledge and generosity of the Audiogon community.

With kind regards,

Mark Hubbard
Thank you for your PM, Larry, and thanks as well to everyone for your suggestions!
The average home theater / stereo is going to need 1-2 dedicated circuits. These are usually 12 gauge with 20 amp outlets.

One each dedicated circuit, you can install several receptacles for equipment.

Each circuit run with Romex will have it's own dedicated ground and dedicated neutral as part of the Romex. Sharing neutrals / grounds is really not compliant with modern NEC...

If the power is wired correctly, there is no need for 7 dedicated circuits, 10 gauge wire...30 amp breakers...
This is all over the cliff, I mean seriously.

Are you listening to a stereo?...or...
are you arc welding?


Dear Forum;

I'm in the same process of adding a single dedicated line.  


I know there have been some posts on this subject, specific to Cryo treated Romex.   I understand there are some knowledge forum users on the subject of power and electrical wiring and I wanted to ask the forum a couple of things based on my extensive reading, because there were a couple of things I was not able to determine.

Objective:

The electrical line to my analog audio system, support several receptacles and powers several other items. My goal is to run a dedicated electrical line to my audio system to 1) reduce the load on this line and breaker, and 2) by running a dedicated line to my audio system and removing the connection to other receptacles, I can improve electrical noise (?) and improve sound quality.  

Consideration:

I have an electrician to do the work and will need to run a dedicated line from a arc protector type (upgraded) breaker – one slot left in box, approx.. 45 feet to a PS Audio Receptacle.   I currently have plugged into this receptacle, a Furman 15pfi power conditioner.

Questions:

Based on my extensive readings here and other forums, my understanding is that Cryo treated Romex inherently affects the sound quality (even after burn in), and there is much debate about this and it seems mostly about preferences. Some say it collapses the soundstage in favor of detail. Please, this post is not about the differences of Cryo treated Romex. I have made the decision to NOT install Cryo Romex, as I feel there are other areas to improve sound quality, staging, etc.. etc. and I have already done so. Again, the goal is to reduce the load on this single line/breaker and hopefully improve sound quality by isolating it.   

I cannot find any information on Synergistic Research website on their Romex.

My question is this: Is it better to run a 12/3 gauge Romex and use one of the sheathed or covered wires as the ground? From what I have read, this seems to be important. I read that it helps with noise and grounding. Or is it more important, or better, to use a 10/2 gauge Romex with the unsheathed or uncovered Ground wire? I may not be able to fit or run a 10/3 Romex with sheathed wire to be used as ground.

Also, should I be installing a 20 amp breaker? The PS Audio receptacle supports 15 or 20 amps. I believe I can still use the Furman 15pfi on this line, correct? This just improves the current flow?

Thank in advance for your input.