What makes an amp sound more direct ?


In our hifi journey we have probably all heard amps with different topologies and implementation. Most of these amps would have an implementation which is a combination of one of these:

1. Single Ended
2. Push-pull
3. Balanced
4. Differentially Balanced
5. Class A, A/B, D
6. High/Low Damping factor
7. Zero Negative Feedback (global & local)
8. Low/Medium/High Negative feedback
9. 2/3/4/multiple gain stages

There will be more such items that can be added to the list. My curiosity arises from the fact that some amplifiers (or even preamplifiers) sound much more direct than others. The ones that does this trick generally seems to do the "they are here" trick very well. While the components which sound relatively indirect cast a sound scape which gives the perspective of "we are there".

Just from my observation, single ended and zero feedback designs sound much more direct than balanced designs especially ones with high negative feedback. Is this a coincidence or is there a valid reason behind this ? 
pani
I’m not sure what "direct" sounding means....

I have a Musical Fidelity M6si. I previously looked for information on the manufacturers site as to its design type and couldn’t seem to find the data. At one point I asked the dealer who replied "Class A/B". Some questions:

- Is the M6si class a/b?
- can an amp be a combination of designs mentioned (1-9)?
- If reply is M6si is not class a/b, then what is it?
- How can a lay person know what the design type of their amp is unless the data is provided? 

Thanks.

Mapman, Thanks for your comments!

I think the goal should be to have the illusion of the performance being in the "room" with the listener. Realistically, this is best achieved with dynamic, high current capable speakers hooked to fully balanced push-pull high current/high powered amp(s). Class A or A/B sound best to my ear. All aspects of a system contribute to the overall gestalt of course, but flea watt amps will not pressurize a room and deliver the dynamic control necessary to give you the excitement of being in the presence of live musicians. Wilson, Krell, Dynaudio etc...can deliver full scale music without constraint (upper end models). None of this matters if you do not have the right cables, power cords, preamp and source(s). This does not mean that there aren't any other number of ways to get beautiful, lively and engaging music in the home...there are a myriad of ways for sure, but "live" sounding, unconstrained dynamic and accurate reproduction of the source requires a wide bandwidth power amp with lot's of headroom. I left out horn systems and super high efficiency designs because I have not heard any that could do what I required of them to put me in the presence of the performers, especially at realistic volume levels while maintaining accurate tone and soundstaging. Of course...IMHO!

I find that a better model for what a stereo should do it that it can graft the room onto the particular musical event as it is happening.

'High current' as stated above is not needed though. What is needed is the combination of power and efficiency such that the system does not have to strain to present the music at a life-like level. Horns have no troubles doing accurate tone and soundstaging; they can do that in spades. So as long as you have the headroom its all good. I use the same rule of thumb for almost any amplifier- don't run it much past about 20% of full power for best results. This usually means the speaker has to have some efficiency.

Now its also an interesting phenomena that if you want a system to sound more like real music, its to your advantage to run a loudspeaker of higher impedance; 8 ohms being better than 4 and 16 being better than 8. This is because nearly all amplifiers have lower distortion into higher impedances and that can be heard as smoother and more detailed. Because of this simple fact (which you can see in almost all amplifier spec sheets BTW) 'high current' is not essential as you don't need high current for 16 ohms.

There is always some debate by what is meant by high current. To sort out a lot of the marketing hype I use the Power formula. It turns out that for most speakers you need a lot less current than is usually thought. For example to do 500 watts into a 4 ohm load you only need 7.9 amps.

apparently you've never heard a good OTL

That would be incorrect because most solid state amps are OTL. I also owned the Tenor 75 OTL.
Lotta ways to skin a cat in audio...as long as it does it for you!  The only way to compare system outcomes is to experience them firsthand.  Each of our individual biases and expectations can put us at opposite ends of the audio spectrum.  I remember listening to an audio associates system($100k Avalon/OTL/Walker etc).  He liked playing it at a very low volume level and the system used cabling that produced a hum that was clearly audible through the music.  Very quirky and frustrating to me....but he liked it!  I want to be immersed in the space of the event with all the dynamics and atmosphere intact.  Most "serious" audiophiles may be a little to anal for me...I like to turn it to 11 for both jazz and classical!!  Play on