Ohm Walsh Micro Talls: who's actually heard 'em?


Hi,

I'd love to hear the impressions of people who've actually spent some time with these speakers to share their sense of their plusses and minuses. Mapman here on Audiogon is a big fan, and has shared lots on them, but I'm wondering who else might be familiar with them.
rebbi
Finally got the time to install the upgraded 2.2000 drivers in my Walsh 1 cabinets. The install was straight forward, but did require some finesse to install the drivers in the top of the cabinet. I'm not a wood guy so I had to pay attention to removing all the old particle board/glue residue before re-gluing the new board in place.

Once assembled and when the glue had set up, I had the chance to try the speakers out. The volume was kept at a sane level for a couple of CDs and then I started to increase the sound level.

The result was a definite increase in the bass response (expected) and a good clean, balanced sound through the range. The new drivers are smooth and consistant. The old drivers (both the OW1 and OW2) had some holes in the frequency range where the the volume fall-off was obvious.

I am aware that some time has to pass for the break-in period. My plan is to just play them without being too critical until a couple of months have passed.

As is, they are better by far than the old drivers and I am happy. I shouldn't need to do much to my current system except enjoy it for now.

To review, I'm running a B&K Reference 5 S2 preamp into a Parasound HCA1500A amp. My source is a Yamaha CD-S300 player connected by standard RCA cable to the B&K preamp. I have a set of Marrow MA1 interconnects from the preamp to the amp. The speaker connection is 14GA bare-ended standard type wire. Speaker placement is about 6' apart and a foot from the back wall.

I have no illusions about being an audiophile, I just want good sound. Any suggestions are welcome.

I would be interested in how the old board is removed and new one installed. Curious, but as I said in my above posts, John continues to work on things and tries to make the upgrades easier to install, all the while bringing added refinement to the sound.

As to suggestions, I would say leave well enough alone, listen and enjoy your music through the Ohms. Music isn't about being an audiophile! Have fun!

Frazeur1, the old board was removed with a hammer and is destroyed in the process. The new board has the driver already mounted and fits into the existing space after all the old glue/board remains are removed. I used a file to help smooth things out.

The directions talked about using wood glue and no mention was made of "hot-glue" as some have talked about on this thread.

The new cross-over was screwed into the bottom of the cabinet and can be removed if necessary as it has a contour switch on it (low/medium/high) that, I believe, affects the bass response.

As I didn't have any grills before, I don't have a reference as to whether the new grills are different than the originals due to the new drivers. They fit equally as well on both.

It is too bad that this site doesn't allow photo posting on the threads as I could show you better what I'm talking about.

I think I get what you are talking about. Some of the early versions just had a mounting board with new driver, you pulled off the old driver and just placed this new mounting board/driver directly over the existing hole and screwed it in place with four wood screws. This was my version anyway.

As to the crossovers, mine were all in the can itself and did not come with any controls. So the old crossover/controls were removed and a new plain terminal block/board was mounted in place-hence the hot glue.

So sounds as if some things have changed. The main thing is how they sound though, and hopefully you will enjoy them! Thanks for the response!

FYI, as I understand it, there is no actual crossover in the x000 Walsh line.  Just a resister to protect the tweeter below about 7 kHz.  The Walsh driver rolls off naturally at around 7-8 kHz.