How do you chose speakers based on room size?


I haven't seen a guide that discusses how to size speakers based on the room that they will be placed. What is the proper method to mate the two?
dave_newman
Saki70, you have very good questions. I'm going to avoid getting too specific here because I don't want my post to cross the line and become an "ad".

Driver integration is dependent on driver vertical spacing, crossover frequency & slope, and listening distance. Briefly, the ear is poor at resolving the height of a sound source below about 1 kHz, improves dramatically between 1 kHz and 4 kHz (where it peaks), and then actually decreases a bit at higher frequencies but remains pretty good. Steep-slope crossovers give better driver integration (less vertical smearing) at close range than shallow-slope crossovers. In my experience, having a suitably low crossover frequency is more beneficial to driver integration than is close inter-driver spacing. Perhaps Clio09 will post here, as he's the one who really opened my eyes (and ears) on this subject.

Saki70, you mentioned that in a larger room we want to crank it a bit but in a smaller room we want to turn the volume down. One factor that comes into play here is the thermal modulation characteristics of the drivers. Usually the tweeter is more efficient than the woofer so it's padded down, and it normally gets a lot less power anyway. So many speakers run into the problem of the woofer's voice coil heating up more than the tweeter's voice coil, so the woofer has more thermal compression as we turn the volume knob higher. This voice coil heating is virtually instantaneous; a 100-watt transient is like touching a 100-watt soldering iron to the voice coil. Anyway, if the woofer's voice coil is heating up faster than the tweeter's it will have more thermal compression at high input levels. The designer then has to choose an input level at which the drivers are balanced relative to one another, and he will probably choose a fairly high level, let's say 90 dB/1 meter for this example. If we go to 100 dB, the tweeter will get loud a bit faster than the woofer because its thermal compression is less, so the speaker will sound a bit bright on peaks. If we go down to 60 or 70 dB, now the tweeter is softer than the woofer so the speaker sounds a bit dull and lifeless. I think this phenomenon is behind the fact that many speakers do not really "come to life" until you crank 'em up a bit.

So to sum up the preceding paragraph, it's not uncommon for a speaker's tonal balance to change with the input power level, going from dull at low levels to "just right" (the Goldilocks zone) to too bright at very high levels. If a speaker is going to work well at a wide range of power levels, either the woofer and tweeter need to have very similar thermal compression characteristics or their departure from linearity should happen at higher input power levels than we're likely to see in the home.

On a related note, low thermal compression correlates with speakers that convey emotion well. Musicians use variations in loudness to convey emotion, and it's nice if the speakers can preserve those dynamic shadings. If a speaker is compressing the peaks by 2 or 3 dB, well then ou lose emotional impact.

So anyway in order to meet the requirement that a speaker work well at low levels in a small room and also at high levels in a large room, a lot of issues have to be addressed. I think it's easier to address them with prosound drivers, but won't claim that's the only feasible approach. But large-diameter prosound woofers and high quality constant-directivity horns & waveguides combine good directional control with the ability to move a lot of air should they be called upon to do so.

I don't think it's possible to design a speaker whose characteristics in the bass region do not change significantly as its position in the room (and/or the room itself) is changed, so I think the best we can do is build in a reasonable amount of adaptability that will hopefully cover most situations.

Duke
Wow Duke.

Thanks for that explanation about varying thermal compression of drivers.

It suddenly makes a whole lot of experiences I have had listening to speakers, understandable.

Regards
Henry
What about an L shaped 12Wx19Lx8 ft ceilings with an ajoining dining room WP 7s 8s or could you sqeeze Maxx 2s in there? I do have 1 pair 16"x 48" tube traps to use.
Thanks, Halcro. There can be other reasons for the perceived tonal balance to change with level, but I think differing thermal compression characteristics among drivers is usually the main one.

Heykay, even though your 12 by 19 foot room would probably be considered "medium sized", the fact that it's open into another large room means that it's in effect a "large" room as far as the bass region goes. My opinion would be, either go with speakers "voiced" for a large room or consider using a sub with the intention of adding a little bit more energy across the bass region (rather than merely filling in below the main speakers, which is the more common usage for a sub). In many cases an opening into an adjoining room acts as a huge bass trap and can actually be beneficial, provided you can get the bass level up enough to offset the loss of bass energy.

Duke
Duke, That explains alot and makes a good case for a midrange driver that covers as much frequency range as possible.