Wiring an Isolation Transformer


I found a pristine, never been used, Topaz (Square D Company) 91018-31 1.8 KVA Ultra Isolator Line Noise Suppressor for $40. Other markings include .0005pF, 50/60 Hz, 120/240, Indoor Type 1, Enclosure Class 1-80 Insulation. However, it has no receptacle or chord.

My first question to the forum, is how to wire it? Could I just take a short extension cord, cut in half, wire the male end to the output side and the female end to the input side? Should I use bare wire under the screw terminals, or should I crimp/solder on spades? What wires go on what screw terminals? Some suggest balanced is the way to go. But some suggest this cuts the power in half, some suggest it doesn’t. Here is an example I found of balanced wiring:

Input:
Neutral (white) to H1
Hot (black) to H4
Ground to chassis

Output:
Hot 1 (white) to X1
Hot 2 (black) to X4
X2/X3 center tap connected to chassis ground and outlet ground.

Is this all there is to it? I am a complete newb when it comes to electrical work. Is this something I can do myself, or should I hire an electrician? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
cpalcott
I have a friend who is an electrician coming over tomorrow. He has some experience with wiring isolation transformers. But I need to be able to tell what I want. So, if I am understanding this correctly, some are suggesting wiring this as 240v in 240v out even though it will be on a 120v circuit to help keep it cool. Is this correct? Will this work? It seems consenus that if I have it wired balanced, it will half the kva rating. If I do that, will .9 kva be enough to run the digital part of my system (Apple TV, Monarchy DIP, Tube Audio Designs TADAC Tube Pre/DAC, AV Switcher, and perhaps a Tivo)?
Check the print on the back of the units or the manuals for the equipment's maximum amp draw.

V (voltage) times A (amps) = VA = watts

Rule of thumb for audio is that xformer should be at least double the combined draw. 80% is the "industrial" rule.

As far as the rest, wow, leave it to the electrician. You started off good.
So does the following seem like a practical approach? Will this get me balanced isolation? Are their any safety concerns with this setup? Can I just use a good extension cord, cut in half, and wired in the manner described below?

Input:
Neutral (white) to H1
Hot (black) to H4
Ground to chassis
Jumper H2 to H3
Add appropriate inline Fuse/Holder

Output:
Hot 1 (white) to X1
Hot 2 (black) to X4
X2/X3 center tap connected to chassis ground and outlet ground.
LOL

Haven't worked on a Topaz 120/240, but that looks right. Check it with a meter. You can get GFCI cords.
Today I had the unit wired as described above. The electrician checked it with a multi-meter and got stable correct voltage. Just for giggles, I decided to hook up one of those cheap Home Depot plug-in testers to the unit, and it is showing an open ground. Is this a misread from the tester or is there something wrong with the wiring? Any help?