I bought the SL 1210 M5G to get the factory tonearm rewire. I was on a limited budget, so it was less up-front money to haggle an M5G at the local Guitar Center for $500 even. I have not compared it to the KAB Cardas upgrade, but I haven't felt compelled to change out the M5G wiring either, and I have premium (mostly Kimber and AQ) interconnects throughout my systems. I think if it wasn't up to snuff, I'd notice. You get a slight improvement by separating the R & L leads, and a little more quietness by twisting them together.
While we talk about where to put the money in upgrades, let's not forget you have to put this sucker on an isolation platform. So far, the recommendation is to replace the feet with compatibly threaded brass cones, set this on a thick wooden platform, and isolate the platform from the rack shelf with Mapleshade Isoblocks or Vibrapods.
At the cheap end, you can get 1.25"x1.5" Dayton Speaker threaded brass cones from Parts Express for $20/set of 4, set the coned turntable on a butcher block cutting board from Ikea for $25, and set all this on Vibrapods or Isoblocks for $24/set of 4.
At the higher end of the spectrum, use Mapleshade Threaded Heavyfeet ($160/set of 4) on his 4" maple platform ($250) set on his Isoblocks ($24/set of 4).
I have direct experience with different mats, the platforming as described, Sumiko headshell and azimuth alignment, and fluid damper. They're all worthwhile.
Based on posts here, Zaikesman in particular, the KAB outboard power supply should probably be the starting point. He got the fluid damper first and the outboard PSU later. He felt that the PSU had the most profound effect.
For a crash course in SL1200 performance and various A-goners upgrades, read the SL1200 thread in the Analog Reviews section.
Oh, yeah: I also highly recommend that any SL12x0 owner pony up the $4.95 and squirt a few drops of oil into the bearing. I noticed a significant improvement in quietness, smoothness, and speed consistency after I did that with a nearly new (7-mo-old) SL1210. You can't be sure that all shippers and handlers observed "This Side Up" throughout the shipping, storing, and schlepping stages. It's probably a good idea to dose it with fresh oil when you set it up in your home.
While we talk about where to put the money in upgrades, let's not forget you have to put this sucker on an isolation platform. So far, the recommendation is to replace the feet with compatibly threaded brass cones, set this on a thick wooden platform, and isolate the platform from the rack shelf with Mapleshade Isoblocks or Vibrapods.
At the cheap end, you can get 1.25"x1.5" Dayton Speaker threaded brass cones from Parts Express for $20/set of 4, set the coned turntable on a butcher block cutting board from Ikea for $25, and set all this on Vibrapods or Isoblocks for $24/set of 4.
At the higher end of the spectrum, use Mapleshade Threaded Heavyfeet ($160/set of 4) on his 4" maple platform ($250) set on his Isoblocks ($24/set of 4).
I have direct experience with different mats, the platforming as described, Sumiko headshell and azimuth alignment, and fluid damper. They're all worthwhile.
Based on posts here, Zaikesman in particular, the KAB outboard power supply should probably be the starting point. He got the fluid damper first and the outboard PSU later. He felt that the PSU had the most profound effect.
For a crash course in SL1200 performance and various A-goners upgrades, read the SL1200 thread in the Analog Reviews section.
Oh, yeah: I also highly recommend that any SL12x0 owner pony up the $4.95 and squirt a few drops of oil into the bearing. I noticed a significant improvement in quietness, smoothness, and speed consistency after I did that with a nearly new (7-mo-old) SL1210. You can't be sure that all shippers and handlers observed "This Side Up" throughout the shipping, storing, and schlepping stages. It's probably a good idea to dose it with fresh oil when you set it up in your home.