Would you like to know about Dunlavy mods?

Actually the following mods would work to improve any speaker. Remove all the ferrous metals in and around the crossover these include all the steel hardware, screws mounting brackets etc. Replace these with brass.Replace the steel screws holding the drivers in place again with non-magnectic type such as brass. The 10 cent resistors in any crossover should be thrown away. They should be replaced with non inductive types such as Ohmite. Better yet would be resistor bridges made up of many Vishay bulk metal film resistors, these are very expensive but the improvement will bring tears of joy to your eyes. These improvements only enhance the already great attributes of Dunlavy speakers. Speed, soundstage width and height,inner detail focus and a much lower noise floor. I know these are all passive improvements. However they make the speakers more reactive to the music. I have also settled on the Sistrum speaker platforms from Star Sound. These effectivly again add a wealth of extra detail and speed. Dan if you are much more adventurous you can seal the inside of the cabinet with a latex based product that drys like concrete. This is available from Cascade Audio Engineering. When I first did this I only did the mid-range tweeter compartment of one speaker. Again the soundstage got wider and and more detailed. Of course it took many hours to complete this procedure. The increase in performance I felt made the pain in my back go away. You do not want to use to much of the Cascade product and measure it out the same for both speakers. Many of the caps I settled on as well as the 8 and 10 gauge inductors are can be bought thru North Creek Music Systems. I am at this time having an outboard crossover and new wiring harness being assembled. Some of these ideas are out of my realm of construction ability. If you like I can talk to you about this new wire technique as well as the construction and mounting of all the components in this outboard box. Oh I forgot the solid copper binding posts from Cardas also help. I know some of these changes are scary to do or to try. Most manufacturers use only the quality of parts needed to make there products sell for a certain price point. The parts and techniques I have selected would add thousands at retail.Oh ,the madness of HI-FI. Talk to you,Tom

No, I did neither of those mods.I feel that if you did those type of changes you would change the time alignment.I do not have the means to measure time offset.Actually the crossover upgrades and the removal of all the steel from the around the components really show how good the Vifa drivers can be.I have been told by a designer of amps and speakers that a .47mic film and foil cap across the output of the x-over to the 2- 10inwoofers will enhance the blend from bass to mids.

Ferrous materials around the magnetic structure (other than the pole piece} will interfere with the lines of flux.The difference I heard when I subsituted the brass machine screws was a smoother,quieter sound, less apparent hash, lower distotion,with more focus to the individual sound stage.The crossover is mounted with steel screws,and the back plate has an adhesive gasket.This assembly can be slid out of the back for inspection.Aaron, the back plate for the input terminal can be removed and a new one can be made to replace it.If you do so then you can change to the Cardas copper connectors and use any cables you want.Brass hardware can be found more easily at mom and pop hardware stores than at the big boys.Again you can buy many of the caps and resistors and inductors from North Creek Music Systems.Remember I changed the inductor wire gauge so this made the inductor much larger in size.This much, much larger size required me to mount the crossover external to the cabinet which allowed me to use any and all types of spkr. wire as well as to remove the components from the turbulence inside the cabinet.When you add up all of the minor to small to large changes that I made to these speakers over the last few years the difference I feel and to others that have witnessed them, is Huge. As time went on I became bolder and more confident in the changes I made .Some times I thought to myself "Tom don't screw up these great and expensive speskers".Remember I never changed the value of the components, only their physcial quality. I would not recomMend changing drivers.Thanks for listening ,Tom

Ferrous material in and around a circuit board can attract RFI.This is why one should use brass hardware which does not act as an antenna and also is less resonant
than the steel screws and mounting plates found in Dunlavy as well as other speakers.When I made hese upgrades in materials there an apparent improvement in clarity as cleaner upper mids and highs.

The Kentucky Derby is here in Louisville the first Saturday in May. Pack up your selves and your speakers and we will have a speaker modification party in the infield on Derby Day.Just being silly!! Anybody out there in the Ky. and Ind. area I could probably help you, or refer you to someone in one of those two states who could do these type of mods.....Tom

Tom

This is Tom speaking..send me an email thru Audiogon..and a phone number if you wish.

Tom