Wiring an Isolation Transformer


I found a pristine, never been used, Topaz (Square D Company) 91018-31 1.8 KVA Ultra Isolator Line Noise Suppressor for $40. Other markings include .0005pF, 50/60 Hz, 120/240, Indoor Type 1, Enclosure Class 1-80 Insulation. However, it has no receptacle or chord.

My first question to the forum, is how to wire it? Could I just take a short extension cord, cut in half, wire the male end to the output side and the female end to the input side? Should I use bare wire under the screw terminals, or should I crimp/solder on spades? What wires go on what screw terminals? Some suggest balanced is the way to go. But some suggest this cuts the power in half, some suggest it doesn’t. Here is an example I found of balanced wiring:

Input:
Neutral (white) to H1
Hot (black) to H4
Ground to chassis

Output:
Hot 1 (white) to X1
Hot 2 (black) to X4
X2/X3 center tap connected to chassis ground and outlet ground.

Is this all there is to it? I am a complete newb when it comes to electrical work. Is this something I can do myself, or should I hire an electrician? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
cpalcott

Showing 1 response by dmatt200

Herman,

I think Jea48 is talking about these sentences from the Bryston link:

"If the 240 Volt version is used then the Torus Powerline
Conditioners are BALANCED at the INPUT."

then ...

"The advantage of operating a Balanced Input or a Balanced Output is noise reduction as a result of the balanced line common mode noise rejection."

finally ...

"On some larger models Torus uses a 240 Volt Balanced Input because of the noise reduction advantages
in the typically long wire runs from the hydro panel to the Torus unit."

So I guess they are saying if running the dual primaries in series (0-240V) can be considered "balanced" at the input, and balanced can reduce noise through common mode rejection, then a 240V primary should reject more noise than a 120V primary.

But I am not an EE, so I am just making educated guesses.

Cheers.

David