Why does the VPI motor thump

I mute my phono pre before turning on the TT, so I have no idea if my TT would "thump" if my phono pre was not muted.

More importantly, ... I have no intention of "testing" my set up to see what would happen if I didn't mute the phono pre. Why would I want to take a chance of damaging a speaker or downstream component because of a TT thump or transient or accidental tone arm drop??

So what if the TT thumps when switched on. What's the issue?? Who cares? Why is this even a question?

But Zavato ... why aren't folks using the mute button to protect their systems from such transients??

You're so right Liz. I just tossed my turntable in the trash.

Ok ... I pulled my VPI Classic out of the trash and against my better judgment turned on the TT with the rig set at full volume -- no mute -- to see if there was a thump on turn-on. No thump. Oh well ... guess I'll keep this pile of junk for a little while longer. I know it plays great music, but I can let thump-free great performance get in the way of the "unfav" comments above. :)

Correction: double checked thump on turn ON. No thump. However, slight pop on turn off, but not a thump.

But really. Who cares? The TT runs dead quiet as best I can tell and my Lyra Kleos tracks beautifully on the Classic 3 arm. Sorry guys, I think this is a lot of nitpicking.

VPI Tweak News: Just installed a 300 rpm motor and new larger on/off bypass cap. To be clear, the 300 rpm motor comes with a slightly larger sized cap than the 600 rpm motor. But I had to ask VPI to send me the larger on/off bypass cap. Absolutely no thumps. The motor is dead quiet. And the TT works just fine.

FYI for other DIY'ers: My version of the earlier Classic plinth has a circular metal disc which is hot glued into the plinth structure directly underneath the 600 rpm motor. Dunno if its the depth of the 300 rpm motor, or just the way the early version Classic plinths were made ... but the metal disc in my plinth had to be pried out or the new motor would not lay flush with the top of the plinth.

Removal required a flat-head screw driver. I just jiggled the metal disc out with the flat-head screw driver. VPI has a round rubber sticky that goes on the bottom of the 300 rpm motor. As best I can tell, the metal disc serves no purpose and the rubber sticky works just fine. Bottom line: no motor vibration or noise. Everything seems to work well.

Btw, this is a good time to clean and relube the main platter bearing with white lithium grease. Not sure I needed to put a tiny drop of oil into the new motor ... but did. Just a very tiny drop.

So ... for those who have a Classic TT with the 600 rpm motor looking to switch to the 300 rpm version, be sure to ask VPI to send along the larger on/off bypass cap and the rubber sticky thingy in the kit.

At this point, the only other tweak to turn my TT into the Classic 3 is the plinth. All other components are Classic 3.

Per Mat Weisfeld, there's not much more I can do to tweak the TT, except maybe for better feet, like Bear Paws. I have a DIY idea which may obviate the need for new feet.

Been thinking about building a sand box sub-base. I would cover the sand with a piece of thin rubber to prevent sand from getting into the TT. On top of the rubber covered sand sub-base goes my 35 pound 2" thick maple slab TT base, which I already own. On top of the maple slab sub-base goes the TT.

P.S. When my wife first saw the maple slab, she didn't get angry because I spent more money on my rig. Instead, she tried to take the slab for the kitchen Fortunately, it weighs 35 pounds and she gave up. :)

P.S.S. -- You may ask, does the new motor effect any improvement. Not sure. If there's an improvement, it's subtle. The main reason for doing it was boredom. Also, I'm sure it will make Stan (Stringreen) happy. :) LOL

Post Script to Stan (Stringreen): Stan, what are your thoughts if I paint my plinth with a shiny garnet black lacquer? It still won't be a Classic 3, but it may look like one. LOL

BIF

@Stan (Stringreen) -- does your Classic 3 motor get very warm to the touch? Been playing my TT. It occurs to me that the new 300 rpm motor gets pretty warm to the touch, actually quite warm. The old 600 rpm motor, while warm, did not get as warm as the 300 rpm motor.

I'm trying not to use the word "hot", but the motor almost feels hot after use.

Any thoughts or comments??

Thanks

@Moryoga ...check my posts above re my Classic TT upgrades which includes, in part, changing out the on/off bypass cap. Ok ... so the dumb stock bypass cap may not work 100% of the time for everyone. BFD.

The fix requires a screwdriver to open up the access port on the underside of the table. It's takes a few minutes to unscrew the 2 wire nuts that connect the bypass cap. Out with the old and in with the new. Screw the access plate back on. All done! And no soldiering.

If it take more than 15 minutes beginning to end ... the owner has all thumbs and no fingers.

IMO, the Classic is a fine sounding table. With a little practice, setting up the cartridge/uni-pivot arm is a snap, ... with a little help from the SoundSmith Intuit gizmo. I can do the set-up in less than 15 minutes in my sleep.

Just a quibble on my part. I think VPI has attracted an unfair number of swipes from a number of fellow A'gon members ... undeservedly in my view. The table is built like a tank and the arm works with most cartridges. It's easy to upgrade. I've changed out the entire uni-pivot assembly to the Classic 3 base and arm; the new bypass cap; plus, a 300rpm motor.

And the VPI folks (Harry, Mat, Mike, Jack and Jason) are always there to help if there's a problem. I always get through on the phone and turn-around with parts is same day or next day.

I just don't get it. I really don't. VPI is an All-American Classic (pun intended). And Stan (Stringreen) likes VPI tables too. :)