Who needs a Preamp??

There are three camps here concerning the use of preamps. The active, passive, and the no-preamp crowd. Who's right? There are no right or wrong answers here, strictly based on personal preferences, the type of gear involved and the speakers you are dealing with.  For myself and with the current set-up, I like an active preamp which gives me the ability to switch between multiple sources and provides the proper drive for my particular amp.

OCD HiFi Guy (youtube channel) recently did a preamp shootout, including a stock Freya II and one with lots of mods. It didn’t come close to the others compared

I have tried many passives over the decades, including autoformers. Most likely the biggest issue was impedance mismatch. My current amp (EVS 1200) was interfaced with a AA DPA-1 + PS 5. Recently, I bypassed the pre and came straight out of my Oppo 105 with upgrade LPM that has a large toroid and better parts than the OEM. PS. Sounds pretty darn good. Keep in mind Ric also has a Oppo, albeit a 205, meaning impedance is probably matched

I have a ~ 15 yo PS Audio GCC 250 the GC stands for Gain Cell, sort of a passive. Why isn’t that tech still around?

While this thread seems to have run its course, I’ll nonetheless ask for some guidance. I totally get the active vs passive discussion, having had placette and reference line one way back in the day and several actives since.
i now have the lumin x1 and it’s Much better w any active pre.  
I’m interested in the Townshend Allegri ref, but gotta wonder how that could improve on going direct using the dac’s volume control.  

My experience revealed that if one is going to be happy with an outboard dac it needs a high quality and beefy power supply. When I first got my Audio Alchemy DDOP-1 the seller did not have the PS 5 outboard power supply. It took about 8 months before I finally found one and the resultant improvement was definitely worth the $695
My Oppo 105's well known weak link is its OEM power supply. By chance I came across aftermarket LPMs on ebay for $200 and up. Even the ~ $200 ones had a very large toroid, and pretty decent board parts. I also upgraded the OEM IEC to a Furutech with attached silver wires to the board and ground and a bypass jumper for the 110/220 o/o switch. Best ~ $300 I've ever spent. No outboard dac can compete for the dollar value and extremely high sonics. This method also eliminates a power cord, interfacing cable, likely shelf space, and vibration control trinkets
for the last 2 days I have been cranking the gold remaster of Night Moves: very visceral and enjoyable.

Straight in is very nice indeed, however

I want remote volume and remote balance from listening position for EVERYTHING, so I use Chase Remote Line Controller RLC-1 in ANY system without hesitation, I never want to be without one.

sold, but info, they come up for sale now and again.

https://www.usaudiomart.com/details/649391586-chase-technologies-rlc1-remote-line-controller/images/1694269/

S/N 105db,, they say Absolutely No Noise and it is true.

It says via tape loop which can be done if using a preamp, however I go direct to the amp.

I’ve gone direct or thru Chase RLC-1 into my Tube Mono Blocks; into my McIntosh 2250 SS Amp; Integrated Cayin A88T Tube Amp; Carver SS Cube Amp. None of my audio friends nor I could ever hear any difference.

I/we listen for hours, back and forth, stereo/mono/various volume levels/mixes from various engineers, individual tracks benefitting from a minor balance tweak, ...

It is from the Quad Era, so it has two outputs, front and rear, they are identical, I used to send one to Tube Mono’s and one to MC2250, separate speaker wires to nice German banana plugs at speakers, easy to compare tubes to SS.

Absolutely need the remote, no panel switches.

I’m using two, and have a spare.

Low Volume ’Loudness’ (low volume bass boost) is built in

I am a fan of Fletcher Munson EQ for low level listening, the primary benefit for me is to boost the bass players in Jazz at low volumes, that difference keeps it involving when low. This unit has automatic ’loudness’ (low volume boost)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equal-loudness_contour

you can find threads about people disabeling that feature, however, they don’t know how to properly use the unit.

It starts with no boost, and you adjust your volume elsewhere to your lowest normal volume, and leave that alone. then boost RLC-1, no eq, just more volume. When you lower the volume below your default start, the RLC-1 will then automatically and progressively engage low volume boost, use it right it’s terrific.

low volume eq effects highs also, but that is not what restores involvement for me, it is keeping the bass player in the trio rather than losing him/her