Who needs a MM cartridge type when we have MC?


Dear friends: who really needs an MM type phono cartridge?, well I will try to share/explain with you what are my experiences about and I hope too that many of you could enrich the topic/subject with your own experiences.

For some years ( in this forum ) and time to time I posted that the MM type cartridge quality sound is better than we know or that we think and like four months ago I start a thread about: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1173550723&openusid&zzRauliruegas&4&5#Rauliruegas where we analyse some MM type cartridges.

Well, in the last 10-12 months I buy something like 30+ different MM type phono cartridges ( you can read in my virtual system which ones. ) and I’m still doing it. The purpose of this fact ( “ buy it “ ) is for one way to confirm or not if really those MM type cartridges are good for us ( music lovers ) and at the same time learn about MM vs MC cartridges, as a fact I learn many things other than MM/MC cartridge subject.

If we take a look to the Agon analog members at least 90% of them use ( only ) MC phono cartridges, if we take a look to the “ professional reviewers “ ( TAS, Stereophile, Positive Feedback, Enjoy the Music, etc, etc, ) 95% ( at least ) of them use only MC cartridges ( well I know that for example: REG and NG of TAS and RJR of Stereophile use only MM type cartridges!!!!!!!! ) , if we take a look to the phono cartridge manufacturers more than 90% of them build/design for MC cartridges and if you speak with audio dealers almost all will tell you that the MC cartridges is the way to go.

So, who are wrong/right, the few ( like me ) that speak that the MM type is a very good alternative or the “ whole “ cartridge industry that think and support the MC cartridge only valid alternative?

IMHO I think that both groups are not totally wrong/right and that the subject is not who is wrong/right but that the subject is : KNOW-HOW or NON KNOW-HOW about.

Many years ago when I was introduced to the “ high end “ the cartridges were almost MM type ones: Shure, Stanton, Pickering, Empire, etc, etc. In those time I remember that one dealer told me that if I really want to be nearest to the music I have to buy the Empire 4000 D ( they say for 4-channel reproduction as well. ) and this was truly my first encounter with a “ high end cartridge “, I buy the 4000D I for 70.00 dls ( I can’t pay 150.00 for the D III. ), btw the specs of these Empire cartridges were impressive even today, look: frequency response: 5-50,000Hz, channel separation: 35db, tracking force range: 0.25grs to 1.25grs!!!!!!!!, just impressive, but there are some cartridges which frequency response goes to 100,000Hz!!!!!!!!!!

I start to learn about and I follow to buying other MM type cartridges ( in those times I never imagine nothing about MC cartridges: I don’t imagine of its existence!!!. ) like AKG, Micro Acoustics, ADC, B&O, Audio Technica, Sonus, etc, etc.

Years latter the same dealer told me about the MC marvelous cartridges and he introduce me to the Denon-103 following with the 103-D and the Fulton High performance, so I start to buy and hear MC cartridges. I start to read audio magazines about either cartridge type: MM and Mc ones.

I have to make changes in my audio system ( because of the low output of the MC cartridges and because I was learning how to improve the performance of my audio system ) and I follow what the reviewers/audio dealers “ speak “ about, I was un-experienced !!!!!!!, I was learning ( well I’m yet. ).

I can tell you many good/bad histories about but I don’t want that the thread was/is boring for you, so please let me tell you what I learn and where I’m standing today about:

over the years I invested thousands of dollars on several top “ high end “ MC cartridges, from the Sumiko Celebration passing for Lyras, Koetsu, Van denHul, to Allaerts ones ( just name it and I can tell that I own or owned. ), what I already invest on MC cartridges represent almost 70-80% price of my audio system.

Suddenly I stop buying MC cartridges and decide to start again with some of the MM type cartridges that I already own and what I heard motivate me to start the search for more of those “ hidden jewels “ that are ( here and now ) the MM phono cartridges and learn why are so good and how to obtain its best quality sound reproduction ( as a fact I learn many things other than MM cartridge about. ).

I don’t start this “ finding “ like a contest between MC and MM type cartridges.
The MC cartridges are as good as we already know and this is not the subject here, the subject is about MM type quality performance and how achieve the best with those cartridges.

First than all I try to identify and understand the most important characteristics ( and what they “ means “. ) of the MM type cartridges ( something that in part I already have it because our phonolinepreamp design needs. ) and its differences with the MC ones.

Well, first than all is that are high output cartridges, very high compliance ones ( 50cu is not rare. ), low or very low tracking force ones, likes 47kOhms and up, susceptible to some capacitance changes, user stylus replacement, sometimes we can use a different replacement stylus making an improvement with out the necessity to buy the next top model in the cartridge line , low and very low weight cartridges, almost all of them are build of plastic material with aluminum cantilever and with eliptical or “ old “ line contact stylus ( shibata ) ( here we don’t find: Jade/Coral/Titanium/etc, bodies or sophisticated build material cantilevers and sophisticated stylus shape. ), very very… what I say? Extremely low prices from 40.00 to 300.00 dls!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, well one of my cartridges I buy it for 8.99 dls ( one month ago ): WOW!!!!!!, so any one of you can/could have/buy ten to twenty MM cartridges for the price of one of the MC cartridge you own today and the good notice is that is a chance that those 10-20 MM type cartridges even the quality performance of your MC cartridge or beat it.

Other characteristics is that the builders show how proud they were/are on its MM type cartridges design, almost all those cartridges comes with a first rate box, comes with charts/diagrams of its frequency response and cartridge channel separation ( where they tell us which test recording use it, with which VTF, at which temperature, etc, etc. ), comes with a very wide explanation of the why’s and how’s of its design and the usual explanation to mount the cartridge along with a very wide list of specifications ( that were the envy of any of today MC ones where sometimes we really don’t know nothing about. ), comes with a set of screws/nuts, comes with a stylus brush and even with stylus cleaning fluid!!!!!!!!!, my GOD. Well, there are cartridges like the Supex SM 100MK2 that comes with two different stylus!!!! One with spherical and one with elliptical/shibata shape and dear friends all those in the same low low price!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost all the cartridges I own you can find it through Ebay and Agon and through cartridge dealers and don’t worry if you loose/broke the stylus cartridge or you find the cartridge but with out stylus, you always can/could find the stylus replacement, no problem about there are some stylus and cartridge sources.

When I’m talking about MM type cartridges I’m refer to different types: moving magnet, moving iron, moving flux, electret, variable reluctance, induced magnet, etc, etc. ( here is not the place to explain the differences on all those MM type cartridges. Maybe on other future thread. ).

I made all my very long ( time consuming ) cartridge tests using four different TT’s: Acoustic Signature Analog One MK2, Micro Seiki RX-5000, Luxman PD 310 and Technics SP-10 MK2, I use only removable headshell S and J shape tonearms with 15mm on overhang, I use different material build/ shape design /weight headshells. I test each cartridge in at least three different tonearms and some times in 3-4 different headshells till I find the “ right “ match where the cartridge perform the best, no I’m not saying that I already finish or that I already find the “ perfect “ match: cartridge/headshell/tonearm but I think I’m near that ideal target.

Through my testing experience I learn/ confirm that trying to find the right tonearm/headshell for any cartridge is well worth the effort and more important that be changing the TT. When I switch from a TT to another different one the changes on the quality cartridge performance were/are minimal in comparison to a change in the tonearm/headshell, this fact was consistent with any of those cartridges including MC ones.

So after the Phonolinepreamplifier IMHO the tonearm/headshell match for any cartridge is the more important subject, it is so important and complex that in the same tonearm ( with the same headshell wires ) but with different headshell ( even when the headshell weight were the same ) shape or build material headshell the quality cartridge performance can/could be way different.

All those experiences told me that chances are that the cartridge that you own ( MC or MM ) is not performing at its best because chances are that the tonearm you own is not the best match for that cartridge!!!!!!, so imagine what do you can/could hear when your cartridge is or will be on the right tonearm???!!!!!!!!, IMHO there are ( till today ) no single ( any type at any price ) perfect universal tonearm. IMHO there is no “ the best tonearm “, what exist or could exist is a “ best tonearm match for “ that “ cartridge “, but that’s all. Of course that are “ lucky “ tonearms that are very good match for more than one cartridge but don’t for every single cartridge.

I posted several times that I’m not a tonearm collector, that I own all those tonearms to have alternatives for my cartridges and with removable headshells my 15 tonearms are really like 100+ tonearms : a very wide options/alternatives for almost any cartridge!!!!!!

You can find several of these MM type cartridges new brand or NOS like: Ortofon, Nagaoka, Audio Technica, Astatic, B&O, Rega, Empire, Sonus Reson,Goldring,Clearaudio, Grado, Shelter, Garrot, etc. and all of them second hand in very good operational condition. As a fact I buy two and even three cartridges of the same model in some of the cartridges ( so right now I have some samples that I think I don’t use any more. ) to prevent that one of them arrive in non operational condition but I’m glad to say that all them arrive in very fine conditions. I buy one or two of the cartridges with no stylus or with the stylus out of work but I don’t have any trouble because I could find the stylus replacement on different sources and in some case the original new replacement.

All these buy/find cartridges was very time consuming and we have to have a lot of patience and a little lucky to obtain what we are looking for but I can asure you that is worth of it.

Ok, I think it is time to share my performance cartridge findings:

first we have to have a Phonolinepreamplifier with a very good MM phono stage ( at least at the same level that the MC stage. ). I’m lucky because my Phonolinepreamplifier has two independent phono stages, one for the MM and one for MC: both were designed for the specifics needs of each cartridge type, MM or MC that have different needs.

we need a decent TT and decent tonearm.

we have to load the MM cartridges not at 47K but at 100K ( at least 75K not less. ).

I find that using 47K ( a standard manufacture recommendation ) prevent to obtain the best quality performance, 100K make the difference. I try this with all those MM type cartridges and in all of them I achieve the best performance with 100K load impedance.

I find too that using the manufacturer capacitance advise not always is for the better, till “ the end of the day “ I find that between 100-150pf ( total capacitance including cable capacitance. ) all the cartridges performs at its best.

I start to change the load impedance on MM cartridges like a synonymous that what many of us made with MC cartridges where we try with different load impedance values, latter I read on the Empire 4000 DIII that the precise load impedance must be 100kOhms and in a white paper of some Grace F9 tests the used impedance value was 100kOhms, the same that I read on other operational MM cartridge manual and my ears tell/told me that 100kOhms is “ the value “.

Before I go on I want to remember you that several of those MM type cartridges ( almost all ) were build more than 30+ years ago!!!!!!!! and today performs at the same top quality level than today MC/MM top quality cartridges!!!!!, any brand at any price and in some ways beat it.

I use 4-5 recordings that I know very well and that give me the right answers to know that any cartridge is performing at its best or near it. Many times what I heard through those recordings were fine: everything were on target however the music don’t come “ alive “ don’t “ tell me “ nothing, I was not feeling the emotion that the music can communicate. In those cartridge cases I have to try it in other tonearm and/or with a different headshell till the “ feelings comes “ and only when this was achieved I then was satisfied.

All the tests were made with a volume level ( SPL ) where the recording “ shines “ and comes alive like in a live event. Sometimes changing the volume level by 1-1.5 db fixed everything.

Of course that the people that in a regular manner attend to hear/heard live music it will be more easy to know when something is right or wrong.

Well, Raul go on!!: one characteristic on the MM cartridges set-up was that almost all them likes to ride with a positive ( little/small ) VTA only the Grace Ruby and F9E and Sonus Gold Blue likes a negative VTA , on the other hand with the Nagaoka MP 50 Super and the Ortofon’s I use a flat VTA.

Regarding the VTF I use the manufacturer advise and sometimes 0.1+grs.
Of course that I made fine tuning through moderate changes in the Azymuth and for anti-skate I use between half/third VTF value.

I use different material build headshells: aluminum, composite aluminum, magnesium, composite magnesium, ceramic, wood and non magnetic stainless steel, these cartridges comes from Audio Technica, Denon, SAEC, Technics, Fidelity Research, Belldream, Grace, Nagaoka, Koetsu, Dynavector and Audiocraft.
All of them but the wood made ( the wood does not likes to any cartridge. ) very good job . It is here where a cartridge could seems good or very good depending of the headshell where is mounted and the tonearm.
Example, I have hard time with some of those cartridge like the Audio Technica AT 20SS where its performance was on the bright sound that sometimes was harsh till I find that the ceramic headshell was/is the right match now this cartridge perform beautiful, something similar happen with the Nagaoka ( Jeweltone in Japan ), Shelter , Grace, Garrot , AKG and B&O but when were mounted in the right headshell/tonearm all them performs great.

Other things that you have to know: I use two different cooper headshell wires, both very neutral and with similar “ sound “ and I use three different phono cables, all three very neutral too with some differences on the sound performance but nothing that “ makes the difference “ on the quality sound of any of my cartridges, either MM or MC, btw I know extremely well those phono cables: Analysis Plus, Harmonic Technologies and Kimber Kable ( all three the silver models. ), finally and don’t less important is that those phono cables were wired in balanced way to take advantage of my Phonolinepreamp fully balanced design.

What do you note the first time you put your MM cartridge on the record?, well a total absence of noise/hum or the like that you have through your MC cartridges ( and that is not a cartridge problem but a Phonolinepreamp problem due to the low output of the MC cartridges. ), a dead silent black ( beautiful ) soundstage where appear the MUSIC performance, this experience alone is worth it.

The second and maybe the most important MM cartridge characteristic is that you hear/heard the MUSIC flow/run extremely “ easy “ with no distracting sound distortions/artifacts ( I can’t explain exactly this very important subject but it is wonderful ) even you can hear/heard “ sounds/notes “ that you never before heard it and you even don’t know exist on the recording: what a experience!!!!!!!!!!!

IMHO I think that the MUSIC run so easily through a MM cartridge due ( between other facts ) to its very high compliance characteristic on almost any MM cartridge.

This very high compliance permit ( between other things like be less sensitive to out-center hole records. ) to these cartridges stay always in contact with the groove and never loose that groove contact not even on the grooves that were recorded at very high velocity, something that a low/medium cartridge compliance can’t achieve, due to this low/medium compliance characteristic the MC cartridges loose ( time to time and depending of the recorded velocity ) groove contact ( minute extremely minute loose contact, but exist. ) and the quality sound performance suffer about and we can hear it, the same pass with the MC cartridges when are playing the inner grooves on a record instead the very high compliance MM cartridges because has better tracking drive perform better than the MC ones at inner record grooves and here too we can hear it.

Btw, some Agoners ask very worried ( on more than one Agon thread ) that its cartridge can’t track ( clean ) the cannons on the 1812 Telarc recording and usually the answers that different people posted were something like this: “””” don’t worry about other than that Telarc recording no other commercial recording comes recorded at that so high velocity, if you don’t have trouble with other of your LP’s then stay calm. “””””

Well, this standard answer have some “ sense “ but the people ( like me ) that already has/have the experience to hear/heard a MM or MC ( like the Ortofon MC 2000 or the Denon DS1, high compliance Mc cartridges. ) cartridge that pass easily the 1812 Telarc test can tell us that those cartridges make a huge difference in the quality sound reproduction of any “ normal “ recording, so it is more important that what we think to have a better cartridge tracking groove drive!!!!

There are many facts around the MM cartridge subject but till we try it in the right set-up it will be ( for some people ) difficult to understand “ those beauties “. Something that I admire on the MM cartridges is how ( almost all of them ) they handle the frequency extremes: the low bass with the right pitch/heft/tight/vivid with no colorations of the kind “ organic !!” that many non know-how people speak about, the highs neutral/open/transparent/airy believable like the live music, these frequency extremes handle make that the MUSIC flow in our minds to wake up our feelings/emotions that at “ the end of the day “ is all what a music lover is looking for.
These not means that these cartridges don’t shine on the midrange because they do too and they have very good soundstage but here is more system/room dependent.

Well we have a very good alternative on the ( very low price ) MM type cartridges to achieve that music target and I’m not saying that you change your MC cartridge for a MM one: NO, what I’m trying to tell you is that it is worth to have ( as many you can buy/find ) the MM type cartridges along your MC ones

I want to tell you that I can live happy with any of those MM cartridges and I’m not saying with this that all of them perform at the same quality level NO!! what I’m saying is that all of them are very good performers, all of them approach you nearest to the music.

If you ask me which one is the best I can tell you that this will be a very hard “ call “ an almost impossible to decide, I think that I can make a difference between the very good ones and the stellar ones where IMHO the next cartridges belongs to this group:

Audio Technica ATML 170 and 180 OCC, Grado The Amber Tribute, Grace Ruby, Garrot P77, Nagaoka MP-50 Super, B&O MMC2 and MMC20CL, AKG P8ES SuperNova, Reson Reca ,Astatic MF-100 and Stanton LZS 981.

There are other ones that are really near this group: ADC Astrion, Supex MF-100 MK2, Micro Acoustics MA630/830, Empire 750 LTD and 600LAC, Sonus Dimension 5, Astatic MF-200 and 300 and the Acutex 320III.

The other ones are very good too but less refined ones.
I try too ( owned or borrowed for a friend ) the Shure IV and VMR, Music maker 2-3 and Clearaudio Virtuoso/Maestro, from these I could recommended only the Clearaudios the Shure’s and Music Maker are almost mediocre ones performers.
I forgot I try to the B&O Soundsmith versions, well this cartridges are good but are different from the original B&O ( that I prefer. ) due that the Sounsmith ones use ruby cantilevers instead the original B&O sapphire ones that for what I tested sounds more natural and less hi-fi like the ruby ones.

What I learn other that the importance on the quality sound reproduction through MM type cartridges?, well that unfortunately the advance in the design looking for a better quality cartridge performers advance almost nothing either on MM and MC cartridges.

Yes, today we have different/advanced body cartridge materials, different cantilever build materials, different stylus shape/profile, different, different,,,,different, but the quality sound reproduction is almost the same with cartridges build 30+ years ago and this is a fact. The same occur with TT’s and tonearms. Is sad to speak in this way but it is what we have today. Please, I’m not saying that some cartridges designs don’t grow up because they did it, example: Koetsu they today Koetsu’s are better performers that the old ones but against other cartridges the Koetsu ones don’t advance and many old and today cartridges MM/MC beat them easily.

Where I think the audio industry grow-up for the better are in electronic audio items ( like the Phonolinepreamps ), speakers and room treatment, but this is only my HO.

I know that there are many things that I forgot and many other things that we have to think about but what you can read here is IMHO a good point to start.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.
Ag insider logo xs@2xrauliruegas

Showing 50 responses by lewm

Pryso just condensed down all my more long-winded posts. I agree completely. One of the dichotomies of the internet is that it can be used as a tool to broaden our horizons or to fortify our prejudices. Lets choose the former.
Ray, I agree. I always read and heard great things about the Talisman and Virtuosos cartridges. I think that the ones I happened to buy and use, the Blue Point Special and the Glider in particular, were possibly not good examples of the type. The Glider did everything OK, but there was never any excitement (goose-bumps, if you will). I know there have been many revisions of it by Benz, so maybe the newest ones are better. The Esprit was actually not bad (better than the original Glider, IMO), but could not cut the mustard in comparison to my Koetsu Urushi, which succeeded it.
Axel, You might consider buying some shielding so you can audition the MP50 without interference. Michael Percy sells some stuff made by Texas Instruments (TI Shield) that should work fine. The TI shield blocks both RFI and EMI. Of course there are many other similar products that you may be able to buy locally. If you succeed in eliminating the EMI, I will be interested to hear your take on M20FL vs MP50.

By the way, I am using the solid-state Ayre phono stage for the MMs, but after that my system is all tubes all the way, so this business about MMs being for solid-state electronics and MCs being for tube systems does not hold water for me.
Rizl, Re Martin Colloms. Altho he is/was one of the most highly respected of British audio reviewers, was he not at one point associated with a mini-scandal where he was said to have been unduly "influenced" by certain manufacturers or his editor to give a favorable review? As I recall I stopped paying attention to his opinions at that point. If I am incorrect, my apologies to Mr. Colloms.

On the M20FL Super. I only have less than 10 hours on mine. After hour 2 or 3 it clearly got even better than it was initially. This is to be expected with any cartridge but especially with one that has been sitting in a box unused for many years. On some (good) recordings, I am hearing things in a way that I never heard them before. I can only imagine what might happen were I to cave in to my urge to "tweak" the Ayre P5Xe. Could use better coupling caps and could try 100K load. However, the only cartridge that I personally can say sounds better at 100K than at 47K, given no change in capacitance, is the Grado TLZ. Reluctant to mess with the Ayre for fear of violating the warranty.

Dgob, Was it you that made the remark about the AR phono stage vs the Atma-sphere? If so, I don't know where you got the ideas from me and Axel. First, I am not using the Atma for MM cartridges; as noted above, I am using the Ayre. And since Axel's and my systems are so different downstream from the phono stage, I would be reluctant to compare the two phono stages based on his and my separate and subjective impressions of them. Heck, I am not even sure how the Ayre would compare to my own Atma-sphere phono stage, which has been highly and extensively tweaked. I need to physically move the Atma closer to my Lenco so the tonearm leads will reach it and enable me to make such a comparison. Then too I would need to reduce the inherent gain of the Atma phono.
Thanks, Ross. Your comparing it to a Koetsu has meaning for me, since my former reference was an Urushi, which I still own and like. I guess it is unlikely that someone who already owns an original P77 would feel the need to buy the P77i just to make a comparison. Ross, what do you use for phono stage/amp/speakers?
Does anyone know whether the new Garrott P77 is a real attempt to recreate the original at a high level of quality, or is it merely an attempt to capitalize on the good name of the P77, i.e., a marketing gambit? I guess only end users among us can say. I wouldn't buy one without a testimonial from someone I trust.
Ray, My system is posted here. Sound Lab M1 spkrs, Atma-sphere MP1 preamp, Atma-sphere MA240 OTL amplifiers. The pre-amp and amps were highly tweaked by me over many years of ownership. I use any one of 3 turntables right now, but the MM/MI cartridges are being auditioned on a Lenco idler-drive tt mounted on a "PTP" (see Lenco Heaven for photos) on a slate plinth in a Dynavector DV505 tonearm. Photos are posted.
Ray, I was very frugal all my audio life about buying equipment but especially vinyl-related stuff. I bought my Triplanar about 20 years ago, used. I was a friend of Herb Papier, the designer and builder of the TP until shortly before he died. Herb used to upgrade my tonearm at his house while I waited. Until about 5 years ago, I was like you; I had never paid more than about $700 for a cartridge. But my son was then doing his junior year of college in Tokyo, so I took the opportunity to have him buy me a Urushi there, for $1600. That made me hold my breath for a while, but the world did not cave in. I also bought the MP1 and Sound Lab M1s used at very good prices. The MP1 had been badly abused and needed a lot of TLC to make it work well. The MA240s I built myself, after Atma-sphere sold me all the parts as a "kit" that was not really a kit. Then last year I started to realize that I am not getting younger and that I wanted to investigate idler and direct-drive vintage tts. The rest is (my) history. You can't take it with you.
Raul, It was the P100LE that I was curious about. When you found it you were excited and indicated here that it was top of the line, above the P8ES. I've got an NOS P8E stylus assembly, but the one that came on my used P8ES cartridge has a slightly deviated cantilever and looks to have a collapsed suspension. I wonder whether vdH could salvage the P8ES stylus assembly. It seems that the P8ES was a P8E selected for frequency response linearity and bandwidth. So in a sense they are all the same.
Axel, In addition to the Xono, you might consider the Ayre P5Xe. It's a true balanced design (the Xono is not) and sounds great in my system playing my MM and MI cartridges set at its lowest gain setting. But if you change a few settings internally it has all the gain needed for any possible cartridge. I picked mine up for very reasonable bucks on A'gon (way less than $2K). You can't go wrong. I think the Xono and Ayre must be regarded as being a level above the PS Audio and probably also the Graham Slee line, altho the latter products are probably also worth thinking about. (At least the Graham Slee Reflex is said by most to be superior to the PS Audio. It's all hearsay evidence, though.)

The conundrum will always be there: if an MM or MI cartridge sounds better than a LOMC one, it could always be due to differences in the phono circuitry made necessary by the very different amounts of gain required.
Dear Ray, Am I having deja vu, or did you not make a similar comment the first time I mentioned the TLZ on this thread a few months ago? I think you said that some guy on a Grado thread was adamant that the VTF had to be 1.62 or 1.65 gm for best results. (I consider such blanket statements to be ludicrous, since optimal VTF will vary from one tonearm to another for a given cartridge.) In fact, I am closer to agreeing with you, I found that VTF closer to 2 gm was better than VTF near 1.5 gm. And I do agree with you also that I need to try the TLZ again. It is still installed in its Dynavector headshell, so it will be a simple matter to get it back in action. It's just that right now I am enthralled with the Ortofon. I will let you know as soon as I get it back on-line. In the good old days, I had several "goose bump" moments with the TLZ.
OK. So what he is really saying is that in the "right" tonearm, there is one "right" VTF. What's the effective mass of the Linn Akito tonearm? One beauty of the Dynavector DV505 (or any tonearm with interchangeable headshells) is that one can control effective mass just by changing the headshell. Raul is really on to something in that regard. And with these high output cartridges, I don't think the addition of the extra set of contacts in the signal path is nearly as significant as it would be with a LOMC. The stock DV505 headshell weighs about 11.5 gm, and that's probably 90% of its effective mass, since the remainder is a 2" alu stub anterior to the vertical pivot. I had planned to buy a lighter headshell and a heavier one too, in order to play with effective mass a bit. In the DV505, the TLZ mistracked at VTF near 1.5 gm, but then too, it was just coming to life from 20 years of sitting in my closet. It seemed to track a lot better after break-in, but still not so good at 1.5 gm.
Pivot end up or "positive VTA" seems to be the common preference. How far up is a matter of listening, I guess. And one M20FL user (Siniy123) likes his flat, i.e., tonearm parallel to LP.
Do any of you SL1200 users know the effective mass of the supplied tonearm? That would be helpful. I am running my M20FL Super in my Dynavector DV505 tonearm. The headshell weighs about 11gm, as I think I wrote earlier. Since the "arm" is almost all headshell, I would guess that the DV505 with stock headshell has an effective mass in the 11-13gm range, making it "medium" mass. The compliance of the M20FL Super is also lower than that of most MMs and only a bit higher than that of a typical MC, placing it in the "medium" compliance category. Hence, I would have thought that explained the excellent result I am having. So I am surprsed that tonearms of high effective mass, like the SME3012 would also work well. I am also running a fair amount of "positive" VTA. I would be very interested to learn how Downunder feels about the M20FL vs the A90.
Axel et al, Re VTA with the M20FL, what happened to me was that I replaced the Grado TLZ with the M20FL without altering the height of the tonearm pivot. As Axel says, this serendipitously resulted in quite a bit of positive VTA, just because the M20FL has a lower profile than the TLZ. The immediate result was so terrific that I never even considered fiddling with VTA thereafter.

Axel, I think I can ask the question over on this thread without arousing any ire. When you changed the load resistor on your Windfield from 100R to 47R, you say the W is now much better. Does it now compete with the M20FL, in your opinion of course?
Dave, Perhaps I was wrong in categorizing the SME3012 as having very high effective mass. I must have read it somewhere. Plus it LOOKS to be a heavy tonearm. Anyway, your listening experience is all that counts.
Downunder, Cannot recall where I set VTF with M20FL, but 1.5 sounds right. I took the VTF from another post on this thread. Maybe the original poster will 'fess up.
Tonite I verified that I am at 1.5 in a Dynavector DV505 tonearm and tracking is superb.
Two versions of the M20FL Super? Both of mine are black with aluminum-colored lower body. Can someone post a photo of the copper/gold one?

Dear Raul, Thank you for giving me credit for noting the best VTA for the M20FL Super, but I think that someone else mentioned it first, and I did as he suggested. Either that or when I changed from the Grado TLZ to the M20FL super without changing the height of the pivot on my Dyna DV505, the natural result was a lot of positive VTA, because the TLZ rides so much higher than the M20FL. Anyway, positive VTA is the way to go in my system. Someone else reported that he is running his with the tonearm level. Perhaps that person is missing some of the magic.
Siniy123, I think you should try even more positive VTA before you make final judgement on the black/alu version of the M20FL Super. The tail end of my tonearm is up by an improbable amount for best performance. Then of course we have all the unknowable factors that figure into your evaluation - your personal listening biases, your speakers, your phono preamp, etc, etc. I don't find my sample to be hi-fi-ish at all.

Have you been listening on your L07D, with the L07D tonearm?

To all who are following this subject, I presume that all the M20FL Supers sold by William Thakker over the past several months are of one type, black/alu in color. Yes? Siniy123, where did you get your gold one? Thanks.
The tonearm per se does not have compliance. I think you mean to say that the SME3002 is a tonearm that works best with high compliance cartridges. Don't know about the VMS30, but the M30FL Super should probably be classified as "medium" compliance (somewhat higher than a typical LOMC cartridge but lower than a typical MM cartridge). I would not say that it would not work well with your SME, because the other guys here are using a wide variety of tonearms with success. Probably a tonearm of medium effective mass would be theoretically most ideal. I am using mine (happily) in a Dyna DV505 tonearm with a Dyna headshell that weighs 11.5gm, excluding the weight of cartridge and screws. Since the DV505 arm is virtually ALL headshell, I would estimate the effective mass at 12-14gm.
This is because Siniy123 is also one of those rare human beings who owns a Kenwood L07D, like me.

Dgob, The tenor of your posts suggests that you personally have heard the AKG P100LE and found it wanting. Is this the case? Is so, can you write a few words about your impressions?
Raul, I take as much credit for "discovering" the need for positive VTA with the M20FL as would Isaac Newton for describing the force of gravity after that apple fall on his head (except Newton WAS a genius and that story is apocryphal). Anyway, I note that both you and I are using Dynavector tonearms with the Ortofon (DV507 in your case, DV505 in my case). Could it be that there is some extreme synergy between these tonearms and the M20FL Super? Interesting to think about. We seem to like the cartridge more than most others, and I would describe the sound in terms similar to yours.
A cartridge, any cartridge, has no "ground" side, except whereas you connect it up via a single-ended input, where one phase of the cartridge output is connected to ground. Cartridges are inherently balanced output devices with floating ground. I guess this is my way of saying that the cartridge is unlikely to be the source of the problem. Check the wires that go between tonearm and phono stage; perhaps one of them has developed a short to ground. Is the tonearm grounded to the phono stage, or just the turntable? I suppose it is possible that your sample of the M20FL is defective. If you have an ohmmeter, you can check to see whether there is any resistance between the "hot" and "ground" pins of each channel. If there is continuity, then your cartridge does have a problem. (Should read 750 to 800 ohms, according to above posts.) Apropos of that, do you hear the hum in both channels? If possible, try listening in another rig. (Try the P10, if this is happening with the P3, for example.) Good luck.
It is really fascinating to read your report, Henry (Halcro). It confirms that I have not lost my mind (or my hearing), nor am I being subconsciously swayed by the herd mentality that this thread may engender. I am also interested to learn about Mike Lavigne's experience, assuming his M20FL has arrived from Thakker.

I am running my MM/MI cartridges thru the Ayre P5Xe set to its lowest gain. The Ayre is a minimalist design and does not afford adjustment of input capacitance. The options for load resistance are 100, 1000, and 47K ohms, so only the highest value makes sense for any MM/MI. One of these days I need to call Ayre to ask about the input capacitance, but by my examination of the circuit board, I see no capacitor per se in parallel with the input, so the capacitance is probably just that of the input transistor plus that of the wiring. (Transistors have significant input capacitance.) Anyway, I must be lucky, because with 47K load and the unknown capacitance, the M20FL Super is just great. I really feel no need to mess around with the load.
First the idler-drive crowd led me to listening to a Lenco. Then I listened to some direct-drive turntables. Now I have examples of both types and no belt-drive tt at all. Then you initiated this thread on MM/MI cartridges. So, in about 2 years of experimentation, I went from a guy who never owned more than one tt at a time and who ONLY ever owned belt-drive tts, to a guy with multiple idler- and belt-drive tts and one who has been completely diverted by MM/Mi cartridges. Since I had done so little experimentation in all my previous audio life and therefore had a small database, I have/had to constantly question what my own ears are telling me. If other guys with elaborate systems and well developed tastes are coming to similar conclusions, the whole thing makes more sense.
Dear Montepilot, Just wing it at 47K. Don't worry yet about other load resistances. And remember to use a bit to a lot of positive VTA. Add salt to taste. Cook to a golden brown.
Dear Raul, I have been so taken with the M20FL that I have yet to audition my NOS B&O MMC1. I also have an MM20CL, but not an MMC2. My purchase choices were somewhat based on your advice many months ago. For that matter, the Grado TLZ deserves a re-match. If you recall, I found after auditioning it that the stylus assembly was askew in the cartridge body. I then cleaned the contacts and re-installed the stylus, but I have not listened to it again. Further, I now recall that the TLZ sounded best in the good old days with positive VTA, and the tonearm was level this last time. Then there is the AKG p8E and the little praised these days but not forgotten Andante P76. Not to mention the AT20SS. I have miles to go before I sleep.
Halcro, Are you withdrawing your previous praise of the Orto M20FL Super? Sounds like you are.

I had inquired with Ayre regarding the input capacitance of their p5Xe phono stage. I received a courteous e-mail from Charlie Hansen in which he guesstimated the capacitance as "100 to 200 pF". He then went on to advise me that I should stop worrying about capacitance and get myself a good MC cartridge. Oh well.... (I did respond by telling him that I do own a Colibri, an Urushi, and an Ortofon MC7500. I dislike condescension.)
Halcro and Downunder, I agree with all that Halcro wrote about the fleeting and self-deceptive nature of our sense memories. That's one reason why, to the consternation of many of my "normal" friends who enter our living room, which is also my listening room, I now have three turntables set up across one wall. The MMs ride in the slate Lenco with Dynavector DV505 tonearm. So far, I have used only the stock headshells.

The Koetsu is in a drawer resting right now; I can mentally compare it to the Colibri which resides in the same tonearm/turntable where the Koetsu previously ran. The Colibri is faster, drier, can ferret out tiny details.

Anyway, I can play an LP with the M20FL and then pop it on to either of the other turntables for comparing cartridges, albeit as Raul would be quick to note the tonearms and turntables are not identical. (My wife, as you may imagine, is a saint She hasn't said a word about this craziness. I am wondering whether she has hired a hit man.) I like to think that I "know" what the different tables and arms contribute to the sound and can make some ballpark estimate as regards the cartridges, therefore. Right now, I have been comparing the two Ortofons, M20FL vs MC7500. There are some remarkable similarities between the two despite the very different technologies. The M20FL gives a bigger, juicier sound; I especially like the way it does the overtones of a piano or of the human voice. The MC7500 is a bit more clinical but not excessively so. It reveals more of the micro and maybe a little less of the macro. (This is what all of us have been saying all along this thread about the best of the MM/MI cartridges compared to good MCs. It must be true.) I need to mount a DV505 on the SP10 (one of the other two tables) so at least the tonearms will be the same on two of three tables.

Is anyone listening to the new Garrott p77i or its more expensive sibling (forgot the model name)?
I just read Montepilot's post. What is it that you guys are calling "RF"? Can you describe what you hear? Is it in both channels or only one? Thanks.
OK. I will listen to the MMC1 to see if I can agree. "3-4 steps down from the top" for the poor M20FL Super. That is really cruel, Raul. In a month or two, no one here will even recall that we discussed it as a possible best of show. I presume your re-evaluation is based on using lots of "positive VTA" and a 100K load resistance.
How much for the M20E stylus assembly alone? I hate to be a slave to fashion, but....

Raul, Is the AT20SS up there in your top tier these days? I bought a very used and very cheap AT15Sa and then an NOS ATN20SS stylus, several months ago but still have not put them together. I noticed you listed the whole series of Audio Technica's in the 160, 170, 180 series as being among the best.
Montepilot, As Pryso wrote, you do still have to make an internal modification to your preamp. You have to de-solder the stock 47K load resistor and replace it with a resistor of the highest value you can imagine wanting to try. For most of us 100K would suffice. THEN you can have any load resistance less than 100k by using the external jack with a suitable value resistor soldered from hot to ground. For example, to attain a 50K load (close enough to 47K that the diff does not matter) you would use another 100K in parallel with 100K. If you knew that already, forgive me for being repetitious.

Only one thing about this otherwise good idea: some say that paralleling dissimilar value resistors may cause some audible distortion because different amounts of current are shunted across the respective different value Rs. I doubt this matters at all for phono currents. Second thing is the possible "sound" of the RCA jack and the possibility that you could pick up RFI.
Dear Halcro, I completely agree with everything you say about switching back and forth between fine MC cartridges and one of the "better" MM/MI cartridges, in the form of the M20FL Super, in my case. I have had all the same feelings you describe.

I must comment on one other thing you wrote: the danger of RFI pick-up will be proportional to the amount of gain in your phono section, so one is more likely to pick up RFI when using an MC phono stage than when using an MM one, AFAIK. The voltage output of the cartridge itself does not engender RFI pick-up. If you are having true RFI with your MM cartridge, there is something odd going on such that the cartridge itself or the mounting is acting as an antenna. This is based on my understanding of the phenomenon, which is not perfect.

Raul, you have put a whole freakin' raft of cartridges up ahead of the M20FL Super, which suggests that you have done an impossible amount of auditioning in only the last week or two. How can you be so certain so quickly that all the cartridges in your first paragraph/list are superior to the Ortofon? Or have I misunderstood your post? I have not even had time to revert to the Grado TLZ, due to a full schedule over last weekend and two nights in a row out on the town. Going out yet again tonight. I am a social butterfly.
The important thing is not to fall off the performance ladder. You could hurt yourself.

Can you help me by describing the set-up you used to make your comparisons? Is there any consistent element, or did you use different headshells, tonearms, tables, phono load resistances, VTA? (Obviously, if these elements were all different for each cartridge, that would make for a too long response; you could just give a general answer.) I am using the Orto and the TLZ in the DV505 headshell, which weighs ~11.2gm by itself (without cartridge or hardware), positive VTA, 47K load (until I finally change those load resistors). I ordered one of the headshells you recommended; it too seems to weigh about 11 gm. Both headshells would give a "medium effective mass".
Yep, that's RFI. Sometimes shielding helps, but one needs to experiment with the shield. Mike Percy sells some Texas Instruments sheet material that is very good for RFI and EMI. The product is called "TI Shield". Since it is flexible, you can fold or bend it around the element you want to shield. I use it to shield the phono cartridge from EMI that may emanate from the motor in my direct-drive turntables.
Not necessarily. There may be some special voodoo at play when you hook to the Allnic that is not the fault of the Allnic. Try some shielding around the Allnic. You can wrap it in that TI Shield from Mike Percy. There are other sources of flexible RFI shielding, as well. Not only can you probably eliminate the problem, but you will also identify the source in the process.
We don't have a decently powerful radio station anywhere near where I live, along the Potomac River just outside of Washington, DC, to be any significant source of RFI. Nor do we have any heavy industry at all in this area. I've never had a problem with RFI. I can run unshielded cables with no sweat, altho I do shield my phono cables just for the heck of it.

Good luck with the TI Shield; I have read reports that it really does work well.
�Sorry guys, and with all due and real respect, Raul, I cannot buy this ranking of cartridges on a 1 to 10 scale. There are SO many variables involved that I think the best one could hope for in this type of discussion, among individuals who are scattered around the globe and who own such disparate audio systems, is "bad, OK, good, better, best". And we would argue all day even about those fuzzy distinctions. Not only does Downunder make a good point, but also this leaves the Empire 1000 as the finest sounding cartridge that Raul has ever heard in his system. (It's the only one that got a rank of 9, far as I can recall.) Perhaps this is the case.

By the way, what does the "ZE/X" mean at the end of the Empire model designation?
Thank you Siniy, but if you read above you will see that I have been using the M20FL Super for most of my listening for at least the past month. I like it too and would agree with your verbal description. Perhaps you are suggesting I should try it in the L07D, and I do plan to do that when I finally get my motor and power supply back from Howard. I just had the platter buffed out, because there were some slight corrosion marks in the anodizing around the rim, and it looks like new. I have a secondary armboard for the L07D, from Vantage Audio, and cannot decide whether to mount a DV505 or my Triplanar on it. All my listening to the M20FL Super so far has been in the DV505 with factory headshell and mounted on my slate-plinth Lenco. It has been said that the factory tonearm weakens the L07D performance. Not that it is bad per se but just that it is not up to snuff with the rest of the package. What do you think? (Sorry, I do tend to wander OT.)
Addendum: Sorry, I should also have mentioned that I just bought an Empire off ebay that is also said to be a "1000ZE", NOS in its original box. The seller never has responded to my query regarding the "X" designation. So now I have two questions: Where does the X come from? How does the X designation relate to the discussion of factory original vs replacement styli that was initiated I think by Royj above? When I googled "1000ZE" all I could find were references to the 1000ZE/X. Moreover, the Empire factory manual available on Vinyl Engine, which shows all their products as of the late 1960s (I think), makes no mention at all of a 1000ZE; only the 1000ZE/X is shown. And finally, the cartridge I bought looks exactly like photos of the 1000ZE/X on VE, color scheme and all. The proof will be in the pudding when I finally receive the thing so I can look to see whether the X is engraved on the stylus assembly.
All this discussion of VTA jogged my memory of the old days when my Grado TLZ was my one and only cartridge. In addition to my serendipitous discovery back then that the thing sounded better with a 100K load vs 47K (because I inadvertently soldered in the "wrong" resistor in my phono stage), I also recall that the Grado was exquisitely sensitive to VTA. And the sweet spot was somewhere in the positive domain (pivot UP). It always sounded "good", but when VTA was exactly right, then and only then did it give goose bumps. Thus there was LP to LP variation, depending upon thickness of the LP. It seems these inexpensive MM/MI cartridges are even more finicky than the megabuck MC ones.
Dear Tim, I think EQ is a separate issue that definitely does play into one's listening impressions. The potential value of a phono pre with an adjustable EQ cannot be understated, especially vis a vis my collection, which includes many many early to mid-50s jazz items. I have an original EMI mono pressing of "Ella and Louis" that should be sublime but sounds odd because of its tonal balance, which I am sure is due to the fact that it was probably not cut with RIAA EQ. And obviously thickness of the LP, as I too mentioned, will affect VTA/SRA in different ways for LPs of different thicknesses. At least this latter factor is easily compensated for by readjusting tonearm height. But unless one is lucky enough to own one of the few phono pres with adjustable EQ, one is stuck with RIAA only. Insofar as VTA does tilt the frequency response a bit, although in a homogeneous way, I guess there is some salvation available by that route.
You can find a lot of information on tonearm geometry by searching on the VA site. It was also discussed on one or two Agon threads. And there are whole websites devoted to the subject. But mainly the choice of the various alignment methods has to do with the particular tonearm you are using, rather than the cartridge. In other words, in a given tonearm, the correct alignment of an MM/MI cartridge would be identical to that for an MC one. I own both a Denneson protractor, which is a single point type that is lately frowned upon, and a Turntable Basics protractor, which is the one I tend to use and gives a 2-point alignment (in other words, two points on the same arc). The TB product is very inexpensive and easy to use. The latest craze however appears to be any one of many arc protractors. Feickert and some smaller entrepreneurs seem to make them. Mint LP makes arc protractors different for each and every type and brand of tonearm. This is justified in part by the fact that different tonearms are designed for any one of two or three geometrys, determined mostly by the offset angle of the headshell. To me, it is most important to have the cartridge in the right front to rear position, so the stylus and cantilever are always at the correct orientation with respect to the arc. Any good protractor, two-point or arc type, can get you there. If you are concerned about this, find out the geometry of your tonearm (Baerwald, Stevenson, and Lofgren A and B are examples of the variants). Then select a protractor that conforms to that particular geometry. It isn't REALLY required, because you can twist the cartridge in the headshell (as viewed from above) to conform to the geometry of almost any protractor. For example, the TB protractor is designed for a geometry that is different from that of my Dynavector tonearm, so the cartridge ends up being very slightly askew with respect to the edges of the headshell, when aligned with the TB. This does not bother the cartridge one bit, as far as i can tell.
I think the Empire cartridge I just bought is going to be a true "1000ZE", without the "X", based on a communication with the seller. I need help with two questions:
(1) Do I need to find an "X" type stylus assembly (whatever that means) to get the best out of this cartridge? (What is the bloody difference between a 1000ZE and a ZE/X?)
(2) If I do need an X type stylus, where do I buy an NOS one? I find the stylus available on the internet from three different vendors at prices ranging from about $30 to $166. I think the cheaper ones are NOT original Empire styli. Probably one wants a factory original one, but maybe not. I need advice. Thanks.
Dear Raul, I am a bit confused by your reply, but thank you just the same. You seem to be suggesting that I should listen to the 1000ZE first, before buying any stylus, and that I should post photos of the stylus/cantilever here before spending any more money. But then you say that $166 is not too much to spend. I presume you mean that, IF it is worthwhile to spend the extra money for the Empire factory replacement ZE/X stylus, the company selling them for $166 is the only one that has the true product. Correctamundo?
Dear DU, I actually thought you might be joking. I enjoy dry Aussie humor and dry British humor as well. But there is a core to your remarks that is of course true, and I said as much myself a week or two ago. Anyway, we are on the same page. Meantime, it is summer for you, and we here in Maryland are having the mother of all snowstorms. I grew up in New England, and this is worse or at least as bad as anything I recall from my childhood. As much as 30 inches is expected.
Downunder, Relax. This is fun. There is no need to take it seriously. I am still happy with my M20FL Super. Just the other night it was going head to head with my van den Hul Colibri and doing quite well in the comparison. So for a few more bucks, I am going to try the Empire. I've got about 5 of these cartridges now, but I cannot seem to get off the M20FL Super in order to try one of the others. The way I look at it, Raul is doing the work for all of us. I think he would agree that in the end he is only giving his subjective opinion. We are free to take it or leave it. I do know that without his enthusiasm for this project and his willingness to stick his neck out, I would know a lot less about what is possible in LP reproduction from my own system.

Raul, I am not sure what you mean in your post above, but anyway I think I need the URL for the website where you or someone else got those photos of the alternative 1000ZE/X styli, in order to post it here. But I could be wrong.