Who needs a MM cartridge type when we have MC?


Dear friends: who really needs an MM type phono cartridge?, well I will try to share/explain with you what are my experiences about and I hope too that many of you could enrich the topic/subject with your own experiences.

For some years ( in this forum ) and time to time I posted that the MM type cartridge quality sound is better than we know or that we think and like four months ago I start a thread about: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1173550723&openusid&zzRauliruegas&4&5#Rauliruegas where we analyse some MM type cartridges.

Well, in the last 10-12 months I buy something like 30+ different MM type phono cartridges ( you can read in my virtual system which ones. ) and I’m still doing it. The purpose of this fact ( “ buy it “ ) is for one way to confirm or not if really those MM type cartridges are good for us ( music lovers ) and at the same time learn about MM vs MC cartridges, as a fact I learn many things other than MM/MC cartridge subject.

If we take a look to the Agon analog members at least 90% of them use ( only ) MC phono cartridges, if we take a look to the “ professional reviewers “ ( TAS, Stereophile, Positive Feedback, Enjoy the Music, etc, etc, ) 95% ( at least ) of them use only MC cartridges ( well I know that for example: REG and NG of TAS and RJR of Stereophile use only MM type cartridges!!!!!!!! ) , if we take a look to the phono cartridge manufacturers more than 90% of them build/design for MC cartridges and if you speak with audio dealers almost all will tell you that the MC cartridges is the way to go.

So, who are wrong/right, the few ( like me ) that speak that the MM type is a very good alternative or the “ whole “ cartridge industry that think and support the MC cartridge only valid alternative?

IMHO I think that both groups are not totally wrong/right and that the subject is not who is wrong/right but that the subject is : KNOW-HOW or NON KNOW-HOW about.

Many years ago when I was introduced to the “ high end “ the cartridges were almost MM type ones: Shure, Stanton, Pickering, Empire, etc, etc. In those time I remember that one dealer told me that if I really want to be nearest to the music I have to buy the Empire 4000 D ( they say for 4-channel reproduction as well. ) and this was truly my first encounter with a “ high end cartridge “, I buy the 4000D I for 70.00 dls ( I can’t pay 150.00 for the D III. ), btw the specs of these Empire cartridges were impressive even today, look: frequency response: 5-50,000Hz, channel separation: 35db, tracking force range: 0.25grs to 1.25grs!!!!!!!!, just impressive, but there are some cartridges which frequency response goes to 100,000Hz!!!!!!!!!!

I start to learn about and I follow to buying other MM type cartridges ( in those times I never imagine nothing about MC cartridges: I don’t imagine of its existence!!!. ) like AKG, Micro Acoustics, ADC, B&O, Audio Technica, Sonus, etc, etc.

Years latter the same dealer told me about the MC marvelous cartridges and he introduce me to the Denon-103 following with the 103-D and the Fulton High performance, so I start to buy and hear MC cartridges. I start to read audio magazines about either cartridge type: MM and Mc ones.

I have to make changes in my audio system ( because of the low output of the MC cartridges and because I was learning how to improve the performance of my audio system ) and I follow what the reviewers/audio dealers “ speak “ about, I was un-experienced !!!!!!!, I was learning ( well I’m yet. ).

I can tell you many good/bad histories about but I don’t want that the thread was/is boring for you, so please let me tell you what I learn and where I’m standing today about:

over the years I invested thousands of dollars on several top “ high end “ MC cartridges, from the Sumiko Celebration passing for Lyras, Koetsu, Van denHul, to Allaerts ones ( just name it and I can tell that I own or owned. ), what I already invest on MC cartridges represent almost 70-80% price of my audio system.

Suddenly I stop buying MC cartridges and decide to start again with some of the MM type cartridges that I already own and what I heard motivate me to start the search for more of those “ hidden jewels “ that are ( here and now ) the MM phono cartridges and learn why are so good and how to obtain its best quality sound reproduction ( as a fact I learn many things other than MM cartridge about. ).

I don’t start this “ finding “ like a contest between MC and MM type cartridges.
The MC cartridges are as good as we already know and this is not the subject here, the subject is about MM type quality performance and how achieve the best with those cartridges.

First than all I try to identify and understand the most important characteristics ( and what they “ means “. ) of the MM type cartridges ( something that in part I already have it because our phonolinepreamp design needs. ) and its differences with the MC ones.

Well, first than all is that are high output cartridges, very high compliance ones ( 50cu is not rare. ), low or very low tracking force ones, likes 47kOhms and up, susceptible to some capacitance changes, user stylus replacement, sometimes we can use a different replacement stylus making an improvement with out the necessity to buy the next top model in the cartridge line , low and very low weight cartridges, almost all of them are build of plastic material with aluminum cantilever and with eliptical or “ old “ line contact stylus ( shibata ) ( here we don’t find: Jade/Coral/Titanium/etc, bodies or sophisticated build material cantilevers and sophisticated stylus shape. ), very very… what I say? Extremely low prices from 40.00 to 300.00 dls!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, well one of my cartridges I buy it for 8.99 dls ( one month ago ): WOW!!!!!!, so any one of you can/could have/buy ten to twenty MM cartridges for the price of one of the MC cartridge you own today and the good notice is that is a chance that those 10-20 MM type cartridges even the quality performance of your MC cartridge or beat it.

Other characteristics is that the builders show how proud they were/are on its MM type cartridges design, almost all those cartridges comes with a first rate box, comes with charts/diagrams of its frequency response and cartridge channel separation ( where they tell us which test recording use it, with which VTF, at which temperature, etc, etc. ), comes with a very wide explanation of the why’s and how’s of its design and the usual explanation to mount the cartridge along with a very wide list of specifications ( that were the envy of any of today MC ones where sometimes we really don’t know nothing about. ), comes with a set of screws/nuts, comes with a stylus brush and even with stylus cleaning fluid!!!!!!!!!, my GOD. Well, there are cartridges like the Supex SM 100MK2 that comes with two different stylus!!!! One with spherical and one with elliptical/shibata shape and dear friends all those in the same low low price!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost all the cartridges I own you can find it through Ebay and Agon and through cartridge dealers and don’t worry if you loose/broke the stylus cartridge or you find the cartridge but with out stylus, you always can/could find the stylus replacement, no problem about there are some stylus and cartridge sources.

When I’m talking about MM type cartridges I’m refer to different types: moving magnet, moving iron, moving flux, electret, variable reluctance, induced magnet, etc, etc. ( here is not the place to explain the differences on all those MM type cartridges. Maybe on other future thread. ).

I made all my very long ( time consuming ) cartridge tests using four different TT’s: Acoustic Signature Analog One MK2, Micro Seiki RX-5000, Luxman PD 310 and Technics SP-10 MK2, I use only removable headshell S and J shape tonearms with 15mm on overhang, I use different material build/ shape design /weight headshells. I test each cartridge in at least three different tonearms and some times in 3-4 different headshells till I find the “ right “ match where the cartridge perform the best, no I’m not saying that I already finish or that I already find the “ perfect “ match: cartridge/headshell/tonearm but I think I’m near that ideal target.

Through my testing experience I learn/ confirm that trying to find the right tonearm/headshell for any cartridge is well worth the effort and more important that be changing the TT. When I switch from a TT to another different one the changes on the quality cartridge performance were/are minimal in comparison to a change in the tonearm/headshell, this fact was consistent with any of those cartridges including MC ones.

So after the Phonolinepreamplifier IMHO the tonearm/headshell match for any cartridge is the more important subject, it is so important and complex that in the same tonearm ( with the same headshell wires ) but with different headshell ( even when the headshell weight were the same ) shape or build material headshell the quality cartridge performance can/could be way different.

All those experiences told me that chances are that the cartridge that you own ( MC or MM ) is not performing at its best because chances are that the tonearm you own is not the best match for that cartridge!!!!!!, so imagine what do you can/could hear when your cartridge is or will be on the right tonearm???!!!!!!!!, IMHO there are ( till today ) no single ( any type at any price ) perfect universal tonearm. IMHO there is no “ the best tonearm “, what exist or could exist is a “ best tonearm match for “ that “ cartridge “, but that’s all. Of course that are “ lucky “ tonearms that are very good match for more than one cartridge but don’t for every single cartridge.

I posted several times that I’m not a tonearm collector, that I own all those tonearms to have alternatives for my cartridges and with removable headshells my 15 tonearms are really like 100+ tonearms : a very wide options/alternatives for almost any cartridge!!!!!!

You can find several of these MM type cartridges new brand or NOS like: Ortofon, Nagaoka, Audio Technica, Astatic, B&O, Rega, Empire, Sonus Reson,Goldring,Clearaudio, Grado, Shelter, Garrot, etc. and all of them second hand in very good operational condition. As a fact I buy two and even three cartridges of the same model in some of the cartridges ( so right now I have some samples that I think I don’t use any more. ) to prevent that one of them arrive in non operational condition but I’m glad to say that all them arrive in very fine conditions. I buy one or two of the cartridges with no stylus or with the stylus out of work but I don’t have any trouble because I could find the stylus replacement on different sources and in some case the original new replacement.

All these buy/find cartridges was very time consuming and we have to have a lot of patience and a little lucky to obtain what we are looking for but I can asure you that is worth of it.

Ok, I think it is time to share my performance cartridge findings:

first we have to have a Phonolinepreamplifier with a very good MM phono stage ( at least at the same level that the MC stage. ). I’m lucky because my Phonolinepreamplifier has two independent phono stages, one for the MM and one for MC: both were designed for the specifics needs of each cartridge type, MM or MC that have different needs.

we need a decent TT and decent tonearm.

we have to load the MM cartridges not at 47K but at 100K ( at least 75K not less. ).

I find that using 47K ( a standard manufacture recommendation ) prevent to obtain the best quality performance, 100K make the difference. I try this with all those MM type cartridges and in all of them I achieve the best performance with 100K load impedance.

I find too that using the manufacturer capacitance advise not always is for the better, till “ the end of the day “ I find that between 100-150pf ( total capacitance including cable capacitance. ) all the cartridges performs at its best.

I start to change the load impedance on MM cartridges like a synonymous that what many of us made with MC cartridges where we try with different load impedance values, latter I read on the Empire 4000 DIII that the precise load impedance must be 100kOhms and in a white paper of some Grace F9 tests the used impedance value was 100kOhms, the same that I read on other operational MM cartridge manual and my ears tell/told me that 100kOhms is “ the value “.

Before I go on I want to remember you that several of those MM type cartridges ( almost all ) were build more than 30+ years ago!!!!!!!! and today performs at the same top quality level than today MC/MM top quality cartridges!!!!!, any brand at any price and in some ways beat it.

I use 4-5 recordings that I know very well and that give me the right answers to know that any cartridge is performing at its best or near it. Many times what I heard through those recordings were fine: everything were on target however the music don’t come “ alive “ don’t “ tell me “ nothing, I was not feeling the emotion that the music can communicate. In those cartridge cases I have to try it in other tonearm and/or with a different headshell till the “ feelings comes “ and only when this was achieved I then was satisfied.

All the tests were made with a volume level ( SPL ) where the recording “ shines “ and comes alive like in a live event. Sometimes changing the volume level by 1-1.5 db fixed everything.

Of course that the people that in a regular manner attend to hear/heard live music it will be more easy to know when something is right or wrong.

Well, Raul go on!!: one characteristic on the MM cartridges set-up was that almost all them likes to ride with a positive ( little/small ) VTA only the Grace Ruby and F9E and Sonus Gold Blue likes a negative VTA , on the other hand with the Nagaoka MP 50 Super and the Ortofon’s I use a flat VTA.

Regarding the VTF I use the manufacturer advise and sometimes 0.1+grs.
Of course that I made fine tuning through moderate changes in the Azymuth and for anti-skate I use between half/third VTF value.

I use different material build headshells: aluminum, composite aluminum, magnesium, composite magnesium, ceramic, wood and non magnetic stainless steel, these cartridges comes from Audio Technica, Denon, SAEC, Technics, Fidelity Research, Belldream, Grace, Nagaoka, Koetsu, Dynavector and Audiocraft.
All of them but the wood made ( the wood does not likes to any cartridge. ) very good job . It is here where a cartridge could seems good or very good depending of the headshell where is mounted and the tonearm.
Example, I have hard time with some of those cartridge like the Audio Technica AT 20SS where its performance was on the bright sound that sometimes was harsh till I find that the ceramic headshell was/is the right match now this cartridge perform beautiful, something similar happen with the Nagaoka ( Jeweltone in Japan ), Shelter , Grace, Garrot , AKG and B&O but when were mounted in the right headshell/tonearm all them performs great.

Other things that you have to know: I use two different cooper headshell wires, both very neutral and with similar “ sound “ and I use three different phono cables, all three very neutral too with some differences on the sound performance but nothing that “ makes the difference “ on the quality sound of any of my cartridges, either MM or MC, btw I know extremely well those phono cables: Analysis Plus, Harmonic Technologies and Kimber Kable ( all three the silver models. ), finally and don’t less important is that those phono cables were wired in balanced way to take advantage of my Phonolinepreamp fully balanced design.

What do you note the first time you put your MM cartridge on the record?, well a total absence of noise/hum or the like that you have through your MC cartridges ( and that is not a cartridge problem but a Phonolinepreamp problem due to the low output of the MC cartridges. ), a dead silent black ( beautiful ) soundstage where appear the MUSIC performance, this experience alone is worth it.

The second and maybe the most important MM cartridge characteristic is that you hear/heard the MUSIC flow/run extremely “ easy “ with no distracting sound distortions/artifacts ( I can’t explain exactly this very important subject but it is wonderful ) even you can hear/heard “ sounds/notes “ that you never before heard it and you even don’t know exist on the recording: what a experience!!!!!!!!!!!

IMHO I think that the MUSIC run so easily through a MM cartridge due ( between other facts ) to its very high compliance characteristic on almost any MM cartridge.

This very high compliance permit ( between other things like be less sensitive to out-center hole records. ) to these cartridges stay always in contact with the groove and never loose that groove contact not even on the grooves that were recorded at very high velocity, something that a low/medium cartridge compliance can’t achieve, due to this low/medium compliance characteristic the MC cartridges loose ( time to time and depending of the recorded velocity ) groove contact ( minute extremely minute loose contact, but exist. ) and the quality sound performance suffer about and we can hear it, the same pass with the MC cartridges when are playing the inner grooves on a record instead the very high compliance MM cartridges because has better tracking drive perform better than the MC ones at inner record grooves and here too we can hear it.

Btw, some Agoners ask very worried ( on more than one Agon thread ) that its cartridge can’t track ( clean ) the cannons on the 1812 Telarc recording and usually the answers that different people posted were something like this: “””” don’t worry about other than that Telarc recording no other commercial recording comes recorded at that so high velocity, if you don’t have trouble with other of your LP’s then stay calm. “””””

Well, this standard answer have some “ sense “ but the people ( like me ) that already has/have the experience to hear/heard a MM or MC ( like the Ortofon MC 2000 or the Denon DS1, high compliance Mc cartridges. ) cartridge that pass easily the 1812 Telarc test can tell us that those cartridges make a huge difference in the quality sound reproduction of any “ normal “ recording, so it is more important that what we think to have a better cartridge tracking groove drive!!!!

There are many facts around the MM cartridge subject but till we try it in the right set-up it will be ( for some people ) difficult to understand “ those beauties “. Something that I admire on the MM cartridges is how ( almost all of them ) they handle the frequency extremes: the low bass with the right pitch/heft/tight/vivid with no colorations of the kind “ organic !!” that many non know-how people speak about, the highs neutral/open/transparent/airy believable like the live music, these frequency extremes handle make that the MUSIC flow in our minds to wake up our feelings/emotions that at “ the end of the day “ is all what a music lover is looking for.
These not means that these cartridges don’t shine on the midrange because they do too and they have very good soundstage but here is more system/room dependent.

Well we have a very good alternative on the ( very low price ) MM type cartridges to achieve that music target and I’m not saying that you change your MC cartridge for a MM one: NO, what I’m trying to tell you is that it is worth to have ( as many you can buy/find ) the MM type cartridges along your MC ones

I want to tell you that I can live happy with any of those MM cartridges and I’m not saying with this that all of them perform at the same quality level NO!! what I’m saying is that all of them are very good performers, all of them approach you nearest to the music.

If you ask me which one is the best I can tell you that this will be a very hard “ call “ an almost impossible to decide, I think that I can make a difference between the very good ones and the stellar ones where IMHO the next cartridges belongs to this group:

Audio Technica ATML 170 and 180 OCC, Grado The Amber Tribute, Grace Ruby, Garrot P77, Nagaoka MP-50 Super, B&O MMC2 and MMC20CL, AKG P8ES SuperNova, Reson Reca ,Astatic MF-100 and Stanton LZS 981.

There are other ones that are really near this group: ADC Astrion, Supex MF-100 MK2, Micro Acoustics MA630/830, Empire 750 LTD and 600LAC, Sonus Dimension 5, Astatic MF-200 and 300 and the Acutex 320III.

The other ones are very good too but less refined ones.
I try too ( owned or borrowed for a friend ) the Shure IV and VMR, Music maker 2-3 and Clearaudio Virtuoso/Maestro, from these I could recommended only the Clearaudios the Shure’s and Music Maker are almost mediocre ones performers.
I forgot I try to the B&O Soundsmith versions, well this cartridges are good but are different from the original B&O ( that I prefer. ) due that the Sounsmith ones use ruby cantilevers instead the original B&O sapphire ones that for what I tested sounds more natural and less hi-fi like the ruby ones.

What I learn other that the importance on the quality sound reproduction through MM type cartridges?, well that unfortunately the advance in the design looking for a better quality cartridge performers advance almost nothing either on MM and MC cartridges.

Yes, today we have different/advanced body cartridge materials, different cantilever build materials, different stylus shape/profile, different, different,,,,different, but the quality sound reproduction is almost the same with cartridges build 30+ years ago and this is a fact. The same occur with TT’s and tonearms. Is sad to speak in this way but it is what we have today. Please, I’m not saying that some cartridges designs don’t grow up because they did it, example: Koetsu they today Koetsu’s are better performers that the old ones but against other cartridges the Koetsu ones don’t advance and many old and today cartridges MM/MC beat them easily.

Where I think the audio industry grow-up for the better are in electronic audio items ( like the Phonolinepreamps ), speakers and room treatment, but this is only my HO.

I know that there are many things that I forgot and many other things that we have to think about but what you can read here is IMHO a good point to start.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.
Ag insider logo xs@2xrauliruegas

Showing 50 responses by lewm

A few responses re your questions to Raul:
(1) Is a rating of 5 better or worse than a rating of 6/7? I believe that Raul goes from low to high, so the FL would therefore be superior to the E in R's opinion. So why buy the E stylus?
(2) Clearaudio Virtuoso Wood may or may not be great. IMO, Clearaudio cartridges have a family sound. Maybe that's what you hear. It is not to my own personal liking. Anyway, this thread is heavily weighted toward vintage cartridges, which why you don't see much about the VW. Recently, Raul had some nice things to say about the Ortofon OM Black. Others have said good things about several of the current top line Grado MMs (or IMs) and the SoundSmith MI cartridges.
(3) The Azden is a P-mount that comes new with its own adapter. If you bought a used one, maybe you did not also get the adapter. On eBay you can buy P-mount adapters and they can be made to work with Azden, altho a little surgery to the adapter may be required.

Raul, You are right to indulge your grand-daughter, but clowns scare me, and I always worry that those trapeze artists will fall.
Dear Raul, Do you really like the sound of Clearaudio MC cartridges, or is it their "design" and construction? I ask because I have disliked the sound of every single Clearaudio MC that I ever heard, and this includes the Insider Gold (in a Walker Proscenium tt), etc. They all sound thin and steely to me. None portray the harmonics and richness of real music, IMO. Also, I think of their sound as the antithesis of what I like about these vintage MM and MI cartridges.
Dear Henry, Perhaps my language was a little too strong in describing my feelings about the Clearaudio, but suffice to say I would not buy one based on what I heard more than once in my friend's very expensive system, which includes an all-Walker front end, tube amplifiers, von Schweikert spkrs. But obviously ancillary components, no matter how expensive or carefully selected, can sometimes have a very large positive or negative effect on the "sound" we perceive to be inherent to a phono cartridge. I am still wondering about Raul's opinion.
Raul, Thanks for taking the time to respond. I agree with the logic. The whole system was brand new, including the Insider Gold, when I listened to it, surely that could have been a factor in the sound. However, Lloyd Walker himself came my friend's home to set everything up, so I doubt there was any issue around improper adjustments of the turntable or tonearm. Did not much care for those von Schweikert speakers, however. (They would now be 6-8 years old.) Every several years von Schweikert undergoes a sea change in their design philosophy, and this was not one of their better efforts. So what I was hearing that made my ears bleed could largely have been a function of the speakers per se. Still, "lush" is not a word that I have heard frequently as a descriptor of Clearaudio MCs.
I was wondering where this thread could go, now that we have perseverated over nearly every good MM/MI made during the "vintage" years. Now I know. We can start all over with current and recent production MM and MI cartridges.

Raul, I was a little surprised to note the ease with which you have let loose of your previous venerable gods in favor of this new god. One good thing is that there need not be a race to find these on eBay. They are all readily available from dealers all over the world. Perhaps I need to unlearn my bias against Clearaudio products. IMO that (Souther) linear tonearm is an abomination. What about all the higher end Grado IM cartridges, still being produced?
Raul, Don't misunderstand me; I do admire your honesty, and I know you've exposed yourself to criticism by changing your tune so dramatically. That takes some courage. If you read back among these more than 4000 posts, you will see that once in a while in the early phases I raised the specter of the current crop of MM and MI cartridges, not to say that I knew they would be good but only to say that I wondered out loud about how some of them could compare to the vintage ones. At that point, you already had good things to say about a few of them (Nagaoka, Grado Amber The Tribute, and at least one or two more), and you delegated some to second tier status (SoundSmith's lesser offerings). I was then and am still interested in the top line Grados. New generation Garrott Bros. cartridges may be of interest as well. Also, top line SoundSmith. But it costs a lot more to experiment with those.

Have you thought about building a special edition of your phonolinepreamp with MM-only gain that woould include selectable resistive and capacitative loading? I think there is a niche market for that, especially now.
It's a very romantic notion, to think that Peter Suchy sat around "tuning" this cartridge which he had made for his product line by AT, apparently. However, my guess is that there was a large dollop of luck involved, if the Virtuoso is as good as Raul says it is.

Dgriffiths, You were not with us from the beginning. (I don't think I was, either, but I came in a year or two before you.) In any case, and in contrast to what you write above, this thread HAS been about vintage MM and MI cartridges, on the premise that "they don't make them like they used to". So Raul's review of the Virtuoso is a bombshell of sorts, a teeny tiny bombshell perhaps.
Dear Raul,
I was mostly kidding. I have many cartridges still to audition for the first time, so I am not a buyer. I was just referring to the fact that this thread (and this group of Audiogon members) must be in large part responsible for the increase in value and rarity of the best vintage MM and MI cartridges. If this ship changes course, it is quite likely to have an economic effect. Travbrow made the same observation in a different way.

Anyway, is there a consensus among you and the others who have already heard the Virtuoso as to which version is "the one" to get? What is a Maestro with a non-wooden body? (I think Fleib brought that up.) Is it still called "Maestro"? I have seen no mention of such a product on websites that sell CA cartridges.
Thanks, Fleib. My brief search among a few US dealers' websites did not show those optional alu types. So did you say you like the alu Maestro best? Can you share any ideas about how it compares to a top line vintage MM or MI, for example the AT20SS?
If not already snapped up by one of us, there are two Virtuoso's for sale only a few clicks away on this website for $650; one of them seems to be NOS. But photos show that neither is sporting a "black" wood top, the wood is reddish brown. What's up with black wood? I don't mean to be flippant; if the wood is playing an important role in resonance control or damping, then the type of wood might be very important, and the difference in color might suggest that two different woods were used. Of course, the interaction of whatever headshell Raul is using against the wood contact area might be as important as anything else to his good results.
Dear David, You could say that at any frequency, impedance is the sum of DC resistance plus reactance. "Reactance" is a AC resistance due to inductance or capacitance and is usually a complex function of both. I know you must know this; I just wanted to clarify for others.
Allen Wright claimed in his "Tube Preamp Cookbook" that he or his listeners could hear a difference when his RTP3 preamp was configured so as to roll off at 750kHz, vs no roll-off! Go figure.

Raul, I cannot tell from what you wrote; does your own Phonolinepreamp incorporate the Neumann correction or not? A few years ago there was a fairly erudite article in Stereophile, complete with data, which suggested that the Neumann correction should not be done. I cannot recall the argument made against it.
Dear Raul,
I have no opinion on this Neumann issue, only curiosity. Many years ago, Ralph Karsten told me where to install a resistor in the RIAA section of my MP1 preamp so as to introduce the Neumann correction. I purchased a nude Vishay for the purpose, installed it where Ralph suggested, and never again thought about it. It's just one more thing that is worth re-examining.

By the way, what is the difference between "proper" and improper employment of the Neumann correction? I have never heard the DarTzeel, but what do you not like about it's Neumann correction circuit? I could install a switch to bypass that resistor and find out for myself.
Nandric, Since you are our resident philosopher and linguist, I am surprised to see that you define an atheist as one who does not belong to any church. We generally think of an atheist as one who does not believe in any god. Those are two different things. I believe (without checking) that if you look in an English dictionary my definition will be found there. Ergo, Henry can have several different types of turntables without being labelled an analog atheist. He may believe that one is better than all the others.
The Greeks and Romans had it right. They had a god for every situation. That's the way to do it. Polytheism. I recently moved from the Temple of Beltdriveus to worship at the Temples of Idleriae and Directdriveus. (Beltdriveus is the son of Idleriae and Directdriveus, but he hated his parents, got drunk on a 45 rpm LP and crashed their chariot, and so he is consigned to the nether world of Noplintheum.)
Thuchan, When you start to believe that your church is the "one true way", you will know you have a real church. Which is why I stay away from all of them.
This may have been said already.
IMO, Vishay nudes handily outperform the S102s.
Best sounding Caddock are the TF020 series with MK second, would use TF for phono load but not MK.
I also like Audio Note tantalum very much and would like to try these IRCs, if they are indeed tants.
I think this issue is more important for MCs, where one is likely to be using low value resistors to load down the cartridge.
Raul, It is possible that one would have different preferences for resistors used in tube circuits vs resistors used in transistor circuits, because one is high voltge and the other low voltage, as a rule. Since you and I operate respectively in those two different worlds, it is not surprising we might have different preferences. Believe me, in tube circuits the Caddock TF020 is more neutral, more "not there", than are the MK types. It's very easy to hear, and perhaps Dave Garretson will jump in here and support me on this. The TF020 is limited only in that it only comes in 1/3W rating. I think the absolutely most neutral resistors are the TX2575 nude Vishays. The AN tantalum resistors may or may not have a slight coloration, but it is entirely a euphonic one, and sometimes I like to stick them in here and there. If the cartridge tends to be a little "cold" sounding, the tants can add life without making everything mushy. (Please don't tell me that I "like" distortion; I can't take it.)
I have read elsewhere, on DIYaudio I think, that the Dueland resistors are naught but lead pencils dressed up to sell for a lot of money. It might be interesting to try to make some resistors using pencil lead.
I'm sure I've also tried 100R and 47K with the 980, and I don't recall hearing much difference, but I could be wrong.
Dear Raul, Following on Dave's comment about balanced attenuator, what Dave has done is analogous to what I learned as a way to build a balanced attenuator that will be truly balanced at all settings. That is to use a simple SE stereo attenuator with a single resistor to ground at each set point. Then use input resistors on both ends of the control, where the signal goes into that resistor and is taken out from the other end of that resistor; the stereo attenuator serves as a shunt to ground only. Typically, one chooses one's desired input impedance (the value of those input Rs) and then uses an attenuator that is double that in impedance. For example, in our tube preamps, Dave and I would use a "100K ohm" attenuator with 50K ohm input resistors for each half of the balanced signal. The circuit is difficult to describe in words; I can refer you to some on-line information, if you are interested. It's really quite simple. (Dave has gone astray from that formula by using LDRs, but he is happy with the results.) The downside is that this type of attenuator does not have a constant input impedance. I don't see this as a problem, as long as the minimum impedance is sufficiently high so as not to attenuate high frequencies. The upside is that you can have a very high quality attenuator that does not take up much room in a chassis, costs much less than a fancy balanced ladder attenuator, and is simple to construct, and can sound just as good or better than any resistive attenuator,
Dear Ecir, I am going to use a 100K single-ended stereo attenuator built by Khozmo to build the attenuators I described in my last post. I have them in my possession now but have not installed them. They seem to be very high quality. I can only say it took a long time and a lot of patience to get them, but the company is completely honorable. The 50K resistors that are in series with the signal will be nude Vishays. The Khozmo uses Dale/Vishay resistors that in my application will serve as shunt to ground only.
Henry, Did I miss something? Have you moved from TT81 to TT101? If so, congratulations. I have some degree of lust for one of those.
Dear Raul,
When it was "on-line" I had the Urushi or the Colibri in the Triplanar tonearm mounted on the DP80. Thus I never heard it with MM or MI. Technics SP10 Mk3 has now replaced the Denon DP80 in my shelf system; the DP80 sits idle in my basement. I have been listening to MM/MI on the Lenco in the DV505 with various headshells and/or the Kenwood L07D in the L07J tonearm/headshell. The Stanton 980LZS sounds so good on the Kenwood that I hate to break them up. It may be my favorite rig.
Fleib, I am running the 980LZS straight into my modified Atma-sphere MP1. I say "modified", because I replaced the all-tube phono input dual-differential cascode with a hybrid one, composed of an MAT02 transistor on the "bottom" of the cascode and an ECC99 triode on top. (The stock MP1 uses a pair of 12AT7 on bottom and a single 12AT7 on top.) The MAT02 has higher transconductance than any tube ever made, and this gives tremendous gain (almost too much in some cases) with dead silence. To reduce gain downstream and to reduce the output Z of the phono stage, I also replaced the 12AT7 at the output of the phono section with another ECC99.
Dear Fleib, Re your last post. I forgot to say that I load my 980LZS at 1000 ohms, typically. Also, you may know that the correct original stylus assembly is the Stanton D98, which is a stereohedron. The Pickering equivalent is the D7500S. So when you say you feel you are not getting max out of the cartridge, possibly you could upgrade with a higher level Pickering stylus assembly. The D98 has become unobtainium, but one can find the Pickering D4500S (which is also good and works with 980) and the D7500S, on the odd occasion and for big bucks (on the "buck" scale applicable to vintage MMs, cheap on the modern MC scale of spending). My D98 is of uncertain age but still sounds great. However, because I was so fond of the cartridge, I took the opportunities to purchase both a D4500 and a D7500, as well, both NOS. They are "around".
Since the LPM320STR III is one of my favorite cartridges, I hopped right over to Italian eBay and bought a 420. However, I am a little apprehensive since all they show is the box. Does anyone know whether "puntina" = cartridge? The word would seem to mean "small point", i.e., a stylus. If so, I bought a 420 stylus for 69 Euros, which is still OK because I have an LPM412. I can stick the 420 stylus on the 412 body. But can someone tell me the English translation of "puntina"? Thx
Dear Henry, You say you ordered silver leads from 2juki. The leads were poorly soldered to their cartridge pins. So you do have a legit complaint. But how does this make them "fake"? Fake would be a fair adjective, if the leads were made of something other than silver wire. Was that the case? If not, it is no wonder 2juki was offended.
Dear Dean, My first Acutex came with the Saturn headshell installed. When I foolishly tried to take them apart, the exterior frame of the cartridge body stayed inside the Saturn and the bare coils came out in my hand. It was instructive to say the least. Years of mating of the internal pins, probably made of dissimilar metals, had caused them to fuse together such that the bond was stronger than whatever glue holds the body together. I was not able to salvage even the Saturn, let alone the cartridge that resided within it. However, I later was able to acquire a second Saturn V, sans cartridge body. I now have the wherewithal to try the Saturn, but I have been happy with the 320 in a standard (albeit modified by me) Pmount adapter. Also, Raul said something negative about the Saturn a while ago.
So-o-o-o-o-ooooo, Raul, when are you going to name your latest passion?
Is it the Denon DL-S1?

You are of course entitled never to give up your personal search for perfection, but you must see that the past 3 or 4 years of your posts on this thread (your thread) and others have been consistently of one theme - the unappreciated and unique virtues of vintage MM and MI cartridges. And hundreds of us have joined your "church" after doing a little listening (hopefully), Now you have broken with your flock. There is a schism. It's OK. We still love you, but maybe we need a new thread called, "Raul's odyssey in the world of phono cartridges", or something like that.
But seriously, Raul, why are you withholding the identity of the LOMC cartridge that has you so fascinated? If you still don't want to reveal its identity, perhaps you can say why, at least.
Nicola, Sometimes I wonder whether the term "Balkan humor" may be an oxymoron. (Fun intended.) In this country the image of a very dour and pessimistic Eastern European is deeply ingrained. Anyway, Anna Netrebko is quite beautiful and sings quite beautifully. An opera buff friend of mine keeps her photo in his office. As for Ella, to hear her is to love her.
Dear Dlcockrum, Notwithstanding the truth of Timeltel's statements, the way you describe your problem, it would seem to me to have something to do with tonearm or turntable grounding, since you used the same cartridge in another turntable with no issues. But hey, anything goes I guess.
Hi guys, I have been away from here for awhile. I just reviewed all the emails that were posted since my last one, in hopes of finally finding out what MC cartridge has caught Raul's fancy. No luck.

Although I had successfully avoided for several months the purchase of yet another MM cartridge, I did buy that 420, because as you know I like the 320 so much. It arrived from Italy fairly promptly, within 2 weeks, I think. Raul, hope you get yours.

Dear Raul, I am in a way sorry that you have modified your phonolinepreamp recently. (Perhaps this is not the first time since 2008, the year of the birth of this thread, that you tinkered with the circuit?) Your system should ideally be held constant while you make these relative judgements among cartridges, for our sakes if not for yours. The alternative is to start all over to evaluate the same cartridges with your newly modified phono stage. That is not my idea of fun, so I would never blame you if you don't do it. Can you at least say WHY you cannot reveal the identity of the MC that has at least caught your fancy? I suspect it is because there is more than one among which you are trying to choose. Much as I like the MM/MI "alternative", there remain several MCs I want to try when I can afford them, including Transfig Orpheus, Lyra of some type, stone-bodied or Platinum Koetsu, maybe Ortofon A90. Used to own a Denon DL103 and that might be worth revisiting. I don't know what to expect from any of the foregoing cartridges, except that they will be "different" from what I have been listening to.
Dear ds, That is my impression too when I go back to some MCs compared to my fave MM/MI cartridges. The MC will seem to have a lean-ness that makes one feel there are empty spaces where once there was music. But I feel like my experience of MM/MI cartridges is now much broader than of MC cartridges. And because of the higher cost of MCs, I may never fill in the gaps. I will just have to select out a few of the supposedly great ones and audition them one at a time.
Dear Geoch, Interesting, your remark about the Condor. I owned a high output Colibri, and while I thought it was very very good, I decided maybe I should also audition a low output one. I forgot to put that one on my list. You think the Condor is superior to the Colibri, I take it. I am also guessing that when you wrote "Colibri Platinum" you really meant to write "Koetsu Platinum". I admit I have a weakness for Koetsu based only on the Urushi, which I still like while also recognizing its imperfections. I part company to some degree with Raul and his fetish for eliminating "distortions" (which in his parlance can mean whatever he wants it to mean). I have a feeling that the reproduction process is inherently flawed both in errors of omission and then errors of addition that occur in the making of the software. Therefore, it has occurred to me that serendipitous "distortions" can actually restore to the LP the sense that one is listening to real music played by real musicians, which is the sensation I seek, as opposed to lowest measurable distortion. This might be why I do not like record weights, for example.
Hi Raul,
As far as modifying your phonolinepreamp to improve performance, you know I cannot resist doing the same with mine from time to time, so go for it by all means, and I do agree that there is a certain baseline of performance that you can use to judge cartridges.

I own a used M series Acutex, but I think it is M312. Plus I stuck it away in a drawer when I got so taken by the LPM320. So I have no basis to compare to M320.

I am a bit confused by your recommendation of that B60 reproduction. It does look beautiful, but at $500 it costs nearly half what I paid for my FR64S. And I have yet to audition the tonearm. You are not a fan of the tonearm, so I am surprised that you call it to our attention. Anyway, if one is frequently changing VTA, I can see the advantage, but if you are setting up for one particular cartridge, it does not seem to me that you need the device so much. Can you tell me how it works in practice; does turning the black knob cause the tonearm to rise and fall? Thanks.
My own dear mother sang opera, and she was beautiful as well.
Be careful with those Ivan jokes, you are shattering the Balkan stereotype, because that was actually funny. (I have the vague feeling I have heard it once before, but that did not prevent me from laughiing.)
Hole in the middle? Just move your speakers closer together or angle them more to focus on the listening position. That should fill in any "hole in the middle" that is truly due to extreme channel separation.

Timeltel, Were you implying that praise of the 420 is a bit excessive? I was trying to read between the lines.

As I recall, Jimmie Stewart flew B47 bombers for the Strategic Air Command after the Korean War, in the early to mid-50s, whereafter he became a Brigadier General, but I would be surprised to learn that he ever served in the Vietnam era. In fact, he starred in the subsequent movie of the same name, "Strategic Air Command". But Timeltel knows his stuff, so I could be wrong.

Gregory Peck of course also served as a bomber commander, in England during WW II... Oh wait! That was the movie, "Twelve O'clock High". The plot revolved around trying to bomb the ball-bearing factory at Schweinfurt in broad daylight. But I think he got the Medal of Freedom, too.
Dear Timeltel, OK, as an observer, but he was almost certainly over 60 years old at that time. He did fly a B47 bomber for real, I think, in the early 50s, during the Cold War when we had bombers up in the air 24/7. carrying nuclear weapons. I have not heard my 420 yet, but most of your remarks apply to the 320 that I have been listening to. Switching back and forth between LPM320 and Stanton 980LZS, it is hard to imagine two cartridges that present the music so differently and yet both do it so wonderfully.

Tubed, I think the LPM series Acutex cartridges are pretty retro cool looking, actually. It is clear that they went for a space age look, since they named their optional headshell "Saturn V".
Dear Raul, To answer your question, I would have had to be present at the original performances. There would be a difference too in terms of where I was sitting in the concert hall or night club. I accept both cartridges as alternate facsimiles of reality. If you want the star performer in your face, you listen to the Acutex. If you want more room ambience and awareness of what each and every side man is doing, you listen to the Stanton.
Dear Griffithds, I believe there are one or two Grado MMs that do cost over a thousand dollars. However, in general you are correct, and even the most expensive Grado is not in the ballpark of the cost of the most expensive MCs.
Dear Rich (Rnadell), Please tell us what WAS inside your box that was supposed to be a 420. And what excuse did you get from the vendor, and what is he going to do about what should be HIS problem, not yours?
Dear Nandric, If you read my post, you can see where I clearly say that I own the 980LZS. (There is no such thing as a "991", as far as I know.) I have never heard the 980HZS. I know that Raul has stated here that he prefers the HZS. It's an academic argument, because either cartridge is so hard to find. By the way, I would be shocked if the stylus sold by LPGear is truly an OEM version of the D98S; they are rare as "hen's teeth" and usually cost several hundred dollars if you can find one. I also have an NOS 881S MkII, still in the box. And I did pick up a true original Pickering 7500S stylus assembly which is identical in stylus and cantilever to the D98S and does fit the 980 LZS, just in case I ever need it.

As I wrote earlier, I really like the 980LZS quite a bit. It and my Acutex LPM320 are my two faves right now. The LZS will sound even better when I finally re-wire my L07D tonearm so as to bypass the very old internal wiring and the DIN plug as well.
Dear Nicola, The prices you quote are for the whole cartridge with stylus, correct? The last OEM D98S stylus I ever saw for sale was from pickupnaalden. He wanted about $300 for it. While I digested the asking price, it got sold to someone else, and he told me it was his last. Since then I have not seen another for sale. The $100-stylus at LPGear is clearly not OEM. They don't even claim that it is and don't even refer to it as D98S. BUT it might sound good. Push comes to shove, one could ask "Alex" for repair. (Who the heck is Alex, anyway? I know that van den Hul does repairs in the Netherlands(?) and that Expert Stylus does repairs in the UK. Both have good reputations but are said to take forever. So who is Alex?)