What to replace Nordost speaker cable?

Even though I have the Frey's I think the Heimdall is the best value in the Nordost lineup. I had to really 'squint' to hear a difference between the Heimdalls and Freys. Where the differences between the blue havens, red dawns and baldurs was quickly heard and didn't have to squint. Short version of a long story for me is over the years I looked at price more and at a later time said what if I spent a little more then would I be looking now?

Tyr's and Vahalla's are too far out of my price range so I never demoed them at all.

Maybe consider 3m Heimdall's. If you like the 'Nordost' sound the heimdall's a are big step up in my opinion.

Hi Gherrera1
Sorry for the late response for I just saw the question. I would say again the Heimdall is probably the best value. Tonality I think they sound the same BUT there is just 1/2 hair more air between the vocals and instruments with the Frey's. I really think I could have lived with the Heimdall's and knowing I saved $1,000 would be nice. I had the opportunity to have a Nordost dealer demo case for 6 weeks. Personally I thought the Blue havens and Red dawns were too bright but good considering the price. The Baldur seemed to tame the brightness. The Heimdall and Frey took it to another level for me. Improving on the mids and high end. I think it is the micro monofiliment technology. 85% of the wire is suspended in air. Seems to bring out more separation/air between the vocals and instruments. With the dual monofiliment 90% of the wire is suspended in air. The Spm is more like a Baldur construction but more toward the Vahalla wires. I never heard those.

Reviews state the Frey is 90% of the Vahalla but I would say the Heimdalls are 88.5% in my opinion. Again you do have to really 'squint' to hear the differences. Since I bought my cables new from a dealer they are getting my 1st year re-burn in from the Vidar. I hope to get them back soon because I am using a demo pair. I'll be real curious to hear any differences. That was 1 reason I bought new is my dealer gives me yearly burn in service.

These are just my opinions and to give you my system it is Meridian G08 cdp with a Bryston B100 int amp and Dynaudio C1 speakers w/Rel B3 sub. Interconnects and power cords are Fusion Audio.

Hope it helps and good luck whatever you decide.

What will be interesting is after you have a couple of hundred hrs on the heimdalls to put the red dawns back in and then give us your impression.

Gherreal - According to Nordost 4m (or multiples) lengths are the most ideal. Not sure if that is for their profit but when in the Norse series and up the meters are actually longer. I just happen to need 4m myself.

Since my original post I did trade in my Bryston for an Octave tube integrated and my C1's for C1 signatures. Huge difference!! Still have the Frey SC and IC's.

Gherreral - I had a Bryston B100sst and thought it was quite good. It wasn't until my local dealer brought to my home an Octave V70SE for me to demo. Even before the tubes warmed up the Octave just destroyed the Bryston in every way. Since then I have been tube rolling to get even better sound from it. Better sound stage and imaging. I can't say enough good things about it.

I used to have a rack that made swapping anything but cd's a royal pain. I now have a pARTicular Full suspension rack. Really cool looking with great isolation. Due to its design it does wobble if bumped but it's supposed to. I will admit this rack isn't for everyone but it works just perfect for me. Swapping components is a breeze now.

Have you thought of adding a sub? I have a Rel B3 and it really adds to overall presentation of sound. Not just deeper bass notes. Another major upgrade for the sub was to replace the stock Rel cable with a custom (Rel spec) Nordost Baseline cable. I heard attack and decay I never knew existed.

As far as power (at least with my 85db dyns) they need current. My Octave is 70w @4ohm where my Bryston was 180w @4ohm. The Octave has a world more control than the Bryston. For Solid State the Naim XS @60W is also much better than the Bryston. Watts can be deceiving.

As far as a sub - when set up properly it will add to the mid range and sound stage. Oh and it does add that last octave or 2 on the low end when it's there. Not all music goes that low.