What's the deal with idler turntables and do they have a place in modern HiFi?


After going through a complete overhaul of an AR XA I've been tempted to take a step further back in history and restore an old Rek-O-Kut idler turntable. Can't remember the particular model number from Craigslist, but it seems like it may be an interesting project and far more customizable than the XA, especially when it come to the tonearm. The one I'm looking at comes with the original tonearm, but my guess is that it's even more garbage than the stock XA 'arm and I'd certainly replace it!

However, I don't generally become invested in something if it doesn't pay off. So if the sound is going to be dreadful because it's an idler, then I'll steer clear. But if the sound is bitchin' then I'll jump on the opportunity!
128x128mjperry96

Showing 1 response by bruceofcleveland

Okay, here's another version of the question...

I have a VPI TNT IV, which came with a single idler flywheel, (not the extra three you sometimes see around the edge; apparently, there are quite a few versions of TNT). The base has three holes for the weird three-point idler mechanism but mine doesn't have it. The motor drives the idler flywheel, which is very heavy and has a larger diameter pulley than the motor, then another belt from the flywheel idler drives the platter round and round. I'm sure the idler flywheel is designed to both separate the motor from the platter, and with its weight, damp any transferred motor vibration and speed variation.

Since VPI got rid of the idler flywheel for later models, I've been toying around and did that, too..

So what happened? Did the world fall apart?

Honestly, I can't tell the difference. And without the idler flywheel, the whole turntable "package" makes a much smaller footprint. With and without the idler flywheel, I've been using the odd but yes-it-works-great piece of dental floss to drive the turntable platter. And the VPI SDS speed controller in both cases (the only way to get 45 RPM), so the only A/B difference is eliminating the flywheel idler.

The base it sits on is very heavy and damped, and it's using the stock VPI spring-loaded isolation/leveling feet which supposedly aren't the cat's meow but seem to work fine for me. The stock 12.5 tonearm with a Shelter 90X cart.

Anyone's thoughts? Has anyone else tried just simplifying the drive that way? It certainly looks more steampunk with the extra belt and idler gizmo, but simplicity is appealing. What intrigues me is this is essentially what VPI did in later models.