Instead of a bigger Bryston get another 2.5B and vertically biamp. I did this to good effect when I had Revel 228 Be. Don’t run them mono, but use each channel of one amp to power the highs and lows of one speaker, or horizontally one amp the highs and one the lows. That said, while the sound may be cleaner and you have a bit more headroom, the difference may not be that huge. You are probably only using a small amount of watts from your existing amp. I found it beneficial overall though, and I don’t listen that loud either. Only issue is using a y-splitter for your preamp outputs if you don’t have one with two sets of outputs.
What Power Amplifier Should I Buy?
I am looking to increase my system power. I currently am using a Bryston 2.5B cubed, which is specified at 135 Watts/CH. I am using Revel f208 speakers crossed over at 120 Hz to a 15" HSU sub. The f208 speakers have 88.5 dB sensitivity (Amir measured 88-89dB SPL at 1W into 8 ohms). I sit about 7.5 feet away from the speakers and listen up to 92 dB SPL, but mostly stay between 80-90 dB SPL at my listenin g location.
I have not had power issues. I've never seen a clipping light. I just want more oomph. I've never had a power amp with more power than the 2.5B cubed.
My budget is about $5K. I have been looking at some used 4b cubed amps.
My preamp is a vintage ML No. 38s. Digital from Bryston BDP-3/BDA-3 combo. Analog using Koetsu RS and Shelter 901 cartridges into an SUT (20x) followed by a very vintage Paragon System E used as a phono preamp (I have fully repaired this preamp, particularly the power supply).
I like the sound of the 2.5B cubed. I had a Cary 120 tube amp for some time, but grew tired of the heat and the continuous maintenance, including the insane prices for tubes. I did not experince that great "tube sound" that others rave about. I sold the Cary and went back to the 2.5B cubed.
Will the 4B cubed disappoint?
What other amps should I consifder, new or used?
Thanks for your help!
Showing 5 responses by jimmy2615
By the way, the advice on looking at preamps may be good also if yours is truly a ‘softer’ sounding unit. I preferred the Bryston amps with a Bryston preamp, it provided a certain jump factor that was very much missing with other preamps I tried, including Primaluna, SPL, and DAC direct. I used a BP17. The only thing I didn’t like about it was that it was noisy. Also, I eventually settled on a NAD M23 amplifier. 1st class D amp I would recommend over something like a Bryston, and I’ve owned the different technologies over the years, Pascal, Ice, Hypex, etc. The NAD gives up just a little bit of bass slam to the Bryston (not much though) but is otherwise more refined and has a nicer midrange, and provides lots of clean power (200/400w in 8/4 ohms). It’s cheaper also, and IME was not a sideways move. Definite improvement for my tastes. |
The BP17 is great with the 2.5, best match I had with those amps. There is a brand synergy there for sure. I haven’t heard the BP19 or BR20. The Benchmark LA4 is one of the best preamps I’ve ever had, especially as far as neutrality goes. It is a gem and at its price a tremendous deal. But for synergy with Bryston amps I’d probably get a Bryston preamp, if it were me. Plus as you mentioned you get the dual outputs. Lastly, another option if you want to stick with Bryston and/or save some $$ and shelf space, the B135 integrated has preamp outs. So you could use that with your 2.5B to horizontally biamp. |
@kevemaher thats why I recommend not using them as monoblocks, which is what Bryston is talking about. In this case they are bridged and each amp becomes one channel and doubles the power into 8 ohms. Try to find specs though on what they put into 4 ohms when bridged. It’s not recommended for speakers like Revels. I don’t think you could go wrong with a 3B or a 4B, but I was looking at it from a price perspective. Probably cheaper to pick up a used 2.5. But also, from a power perspective, 2 smaller amps may be better than one larger. The 2.5 is conservatively spec’d. It’s basically a 150/300 w amp into 8/4 ohms. So biamping, at 4 ohms you’re getting 300 w/ch into the mid and tweeter, and 300 into the woofers, and each amp channel sees an easier impedance load. With something like a 4B you would get 500 w/ch into each speaker and it will see the combined load of the whole F208. |