What is your recommendation on upgrading a Linn LP


Here is what I own. A 1984-1985 Linn with BASIK PLUS ARM and no Valhalla. Other wise it is stock. What is my best course? 1) Buy a new component (Linn)and add upgrades I like. 2) Buy parts as they become available on Audiogon and build a top grade player with my old once as a starting point 3. Buy a used player that meets my needs and wishes.

I look forward to your help
schatzman

Showing 12 responses by moonglum

Actually many Users who can remember back to early 1980s models find that the Valhalla version has much to recommend it.
(The Valhalla is no longer supported by Linn so you can't buy one now BTW)
One way to get close to (or better) that performance is to buy the Hercules II AC PSU. It is an external supply so fairly easy to implement.

The only thing I would say about the Hercules is that it can be sluggish on startup and you should give the platter an assist to get it up to stable speed more quickly. Once it's running of course there is no need to switch off the motor - just flip LPs while the engine is running.
It's an art best perfected without a felt mat (use a Ringmat instead because it doesn't stick to the LP) ;^)
Long before reading his comments, I invested in one of those "superior" turntables that Arthur Salvatore bangs on about, equipped it with a Phantom mkII. Yes it does do all the details, dynamics, stability and realism that one would expect from such combinations.
Despite this I still love the LP12 and wouldn't mind buying another 1980s example equipped with a Linn Ittok. Running a well set up LP12 on an Audiotech table mounted on a concrete floor through a substantial amplifier and a pair of electrostats permits a level of clarity that would even have woken up old Arthur ;^)

(Not to mention the wraparound surround capability - from only 2 channels - and the bringing of performers into the living space right next to your listening chair in 6ft tall tangible corporeal realism! Show me another turntable that pulls this trick off as effectively and cheaply as a 1980s Linn and I'll buy it!) :)

Ironically (and this will upset Arthur in his capacity as a former top VPI salesman) the worst T/T demo I've ever had was a VPI Classic/JMW Memorial 12" arm/Transfiguration cart. It was my worst nightmare. Constant (every second or 2!!) ear shattering pops & clicks from new vinyl despite multiple washes and even replacing the discs with other freshly washed examples (VPI 17.5).
I had 2 hours of it and it's not an experience I'll easily forget. By contrast I don't think I remember any surface noise at all from the old Linn Sondek on nearly all of my material over a period of a quarter of a century. Nor indeed do I feel the setup was fussy after it was done. The turntable went for 17 straight years without further setup and behaved as flawlessly as on day 1.

Not saying VPI is a poor T/T manufacturer, just recalling that particular demo. Was it the discs? MRA? The cleaning process, the T/T itself or a combination of several factors? Who knows. Listening through the noise the general standard of SQ left me cold. A bit CD like, not especially involving and nothing to get excited about.
Dear SG,
I can appreciate your confusion. It's good to hear your VPI is working properly ;^)
I'm certain many VPI owners would echo your sentiments.

To make matters worse in this example it used all the standard gadgets (clamp, periphery ring etc) intended to advance its performance so it looked like a million dollars but sounded like $1.

As a rule I would tend to blame the LPs themselves, but if this is the true explanation they must be the worst examples of new vinyl on the planet.
The thought did occur to me that the periphery ring might have been acting as a circumferential "lightning rod" for static but the noise was persistent from beginning to end of each side.
I dismissed that explanation but I admit I've never heard anything like it...
Well, since the OPs 3 preferred options are all Linn-based I'm going to stick with that question and keep it relevant. ;^)

The LP12 has the distinction of being the (only?) turntable that can be built from scratch using readily available non-Linn parts. Not only that but there could be massive number of permutations possible through alternate combinations!

Lets look at some options -
- Origin Live motor kit (highly regarded vs more expensive options)
- "Hercules II" (mentioned earlier).
- Cetech sub-chassis (again very popular & relatively inexpensive. Not sure if this is available now but Linn are countering the aftermarket sub-chassis suppliers with their Majik (£300) & Kore (£750). Both are way cheaper than a Keel.
- RubiKon = aftermarket competition for the Kore.
- There is also the TigerPaw Khan top plate upgrade. Bit pricey so I'm not sure I'd entertain that one. I'd consider a "BooPlinth" first.

Speaking of the "BooPlinth" (a continuously NC machined bamboo variant) which the former editor of HiFi+ Roy Gregory was ecstatic with. Roy, you may remember, spent a fair bit of time in that capacity doing VTA "roadshows" to illustrate the benefits of accurate VTA (during a time when very few arms had this capability) using a VPI with Tri-planar. In fact Roy said in a recent issue of HiFi+, "It's been 30 years since I last owned an LP12 but all of a sudden I'm taking the idea seriously again..." such was the impression the BooPlinth made on him.
His review is an interesting read and he is convinced it is a real game-changer.

The BooPlinth is not the sort of thing you'll see heavily advertised as the 2 guys who created it barely managed to scrape together enough money to get them manufactured(!) - so not much profit in it (and certainly not enough for "payola").
It's not cheap at £1650 so some serious decision making required there... (but I know one or two folk keen on buying it already)

Finally there is the question of implementation. Getting a franchised dealer to upgrade the T/T with aftermarket parts on your behalf might prove difficult but there are plenty of skilled amateurs/pros, I'm sure, in your neighbourhood who might offer to help if required?
All the best, whatever you decide.
Firstly, that depends on your subjective definition of "better".

Secondly, turntable design is not as straightforward as ya might think so ya may be astonished to know that your "better" (insert as applicable) design has flaws.
(This also means that the LP12 has its own flaws).
If we're referring to VPI(?), until recently, their "engineering solution" to the problem of anti-skate was to twist the tonearm wires if required...
It's great when a manufacturer can omit a moderately costly engineering feature then advertise this absence as a "strength" thereby saving himself money but charging you more for the end product because it's "stronger". It's a win-win.

Thirdly, I'll leave it to the Schatzman to decide whether your advice is relevant or not.

Fourthly, if you are a particular turntable dealer or manufacturer who has infiltrated a Forum I am sure it's entirely relevant.
Mission, being a small-town guy clearly didn't stop you doing all the updates you mention on your LP12 did it? ;^)
What a fool I've been! Now I get it!

"Current standards" must be the reason people are still listening to (and sometimes investing serious $$$ in) classic Direct Drives, Garrard 301s, 401s and Technics SL-1200 etc (not to mention the countless classic MM carts listed in the biggest thread in human history.)

We thank you for such an enlightened view ;^)
I already own an expensive, "current standards", "neutral", massive, unsuspended turntable fitted with a Graham Phantom MkII which IMO beats, hands down, any of the alternatives mentioned above and I personally would be more than happy to own a 2nd hand Linn LP12 and tweak it. ;^)

Just my opinion....
Excellent point, Davey. Rumours of the "Death of the LP12" are greatly exaggerated... ;^)
One thing I would say to the OP is to get the ideal support in the form of an AudioTech, Mana, or Sound Organisation table properly levelled - and not micro-rocking - on a solid composition floor (or a very rigid wall shelf with a loosely coupled spiked top board). That is one area of pandering that shouldn't be compromised.

The reason that all 3 are so good is that they were specifically designed with the LP12 in mind. Moreover the Audiotech doubles as a setup mounting jig if you are feeling DIY orientated and wish to get your hands dirty. ;^)
Useful :)

The SO is the least good of the 3 - particularly as the original ones that I had experience of were non-adjustable.