What is everyone using for dedicated AC lines???


I need to buy some dedicated AC cable.

What is everyone using? Romex?

I want the best performance, I will tear out the cable when I leave the house. If its not up to code, oh well, I'd rather have better performance anyways.

I thought about 10/3 Romex for the amp and 12/3 for the CD/Preamp.

What do you think?

Please, no arguements over this I need to buy cable ASAP!
asi_tek

Showing 6 responses by glen

Just want to clarify that you don't count the ground when buying romex cable. 10-2 is a hot,neutral and ground. If you buy 10-3(2-hots,neutral and ground) you could use one of the conductors for an isolated ground(I.G.) in theory.
I hate you guys, why, because it's Sunday night (my day off) and I just pulled out my NEC code book to check something.
Table 310-16 states that a #10 conductor THHN has an ampere rating of 40 amps. A #10 tw (Romex) has an ampere rating of 30 amps. Regardless of these ratings there is a note on this table (240-3) that say's the overcurrent protection shall not exceed 30 amps for a # 10 copper conductor.

Buy the way stranded and solid conductors have the same number of circular mils and thus are rated the same.
Wow this thread is taking off, here's my take.

I just bought a "new" old house (with a view of course) :^)

I currently have a 100-amp service. I'm going to change that to 200 amps real soon.

Then I'm going to take out the existing sub panel (Approx 50 feet away) and upgrade it to a 40-space 200-amp sub panel.

I'll run a 2" conduit between the service and the sub-panel.

Then I'm going to pull two new hots, one Neutral (4/0 THHN cu rated for 200amps) a dirty ground and an Isolated ground.

I'll set both panels up with isolated ground bars, add a ground rod, replace the ground clamp at the water main, and run new bare copper continuous to both the ground rod and water main.

Then I'm going to tie the water and gas together with a jumper and two ground clamps, this I will do at the H/W/H for convenience and yes it is legal in CA.

After rewiring the new 200-amp sub panel I'm going to add another 100-amp sub panel on the other side of the house near my listening room (approx 150' away)

I will run a 1-1/4" conduit from the 200-amp sub to the 100-amp sub-sub. Then I'm going to size the wire for 120 amps (THHN cu) but only install a 100-amp breaker.

I will add another isolated ground bar at this panel.

Then I'll take six dedicated 20-amp circuits (#12 THHN Stranded) up to my listening room. Each with it's own neutral plus one isolated ground and one dirty ground. I may add a drain wire too (That's an idea Albert gave me awhile back that I found intriguing)

I'll be using industrial grade Hubbell I.G. 20 amp receptacles (Ground up of course) at my gear. That should get things rolling in the AC tweak department wouldn't you say.

OH, and yes I am an electrician and personally "Bang for the buck" this is as good as it gets IMO.
Thanks KT88, I'll paypal you $20.00 right away :^). I've been wanting to come over and here those new speakers by the way.

Sean - The first 200amp main is just a breaker at the meter nothing else.
Twisted conductors cancel RF. I use them all the time in low voltage control work though normally not for that particular reason.
Look who's talking Albert and Sean. I haven't seen you guys in the forums in months. By the way great pics of CES this year Albert :^)

I've been real busy fixing up my house, but I still browse Audiogon on a daily bases.

Got to go, I'm doing my lay out for a tile floor in the entry way

One thing I didn't mention; the maximum ampere rating of a conductor (table 310-16 of the NEC) is just the starting point in calculating the correct size. There are other factors that have to be addressed which will lower the ampere rating of a conductor (i.e. ambient temperature, number of wires in a conduit, length of run)

Glen