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What did a good 10 MHz clock do for your Gustard R26?

I'm auditioning an R26 and it's lovely (musical, high resolution in the microdynamics for example) but a little soft on the highest octave. The imaging is not great. On my speaker system (B&K ST120, Spendor S3/5) the images tend to collapse into left, right, center. I have a guy who does really impressive mods ... beefs up the power supply, adds ERS paper for shielding, bypass caps, etc.... but that's irreversible in case I don't like the result... I'm worried about it getting too bright after the mod. So I thought, why not try a good 10 MHz clock? I don't have the budget for a Mutec, but I could try a less expensive one and have my guy mod it and also create a good BNC cable for it. So I'm wondering what has a good 10 MHz clock done for your R26? Improve the extension on top? Improve the imaging? Has it changed the tonal balance in any way? I'd like more extended but not brighter.

magon
dspringham
53 posts
 

Looking at the back panel of the U18 there is a BNC connector marked as an input "1OMCLK".  There is also a BNC output marked "WCK".  If I understand the post, I can use my Afterdark clock with the DDC and then simply use an HDMI connection to the DAC and I will get the benefit of using the external clock with the DAC as well.  Is this correct? 

Yes, correct - Just make sure the DDC is set to External Clock and the DAC clock reference is set to Internal when using the I2S input.

 

 

 

boulder_bob's avatar
boulder_bob
19 posts
 

Thank you, dspringham 

magon OP
29 posts
 

@audphile1 Whoa... went to an iFi USB cable (maybe $150 when I bought it 7 years ago) and the brightness in the PS Audio is gone! The strangeness in the bass is gone. It's still a bit bass-light compared to the two Gustards I've had in my possession, but it's much closer to something balanced. It's also less exciting, less microdynamic, less resolution.... but it suggests that I could look for a USB cable with all that resolution, and also the correct tonal balance to boot. Or perhaps drive a D-D convertor through my original USB cable and then drive the PS Audio via coax or something else. 

Huh.... 

audphile1's avatar
audphile1
4,916 posts
 

Interesting. Take few days to get used to the sound and run it 24/7 to let the cable settle. The PS Audio DAC won’t scream look at me I’m here and attract attention to itself. But it plays music in a very satisfying way. Nothing stands out. 
It takes a bit of time to get used to it if you’re coming from a more analytical dac. 

magon OP
29 posts
 

I got a hold of a Cardas Clear USB (the top of the line Cardas USB, $450 new) and it works beautifully with the PS Audio. Good resolution, beautiful timbre, and all the bass and brightness problems are solved.

In the previous comment I mentioned an iFi USB cable. That was okay, but after listening for a few hours, it was clear it lacked beauty of timbre and it was grainy on piano.

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