Warmest sounding Green Mountain speaker?

I havent heard the bigger GMAs but the bookshelf models I have heard are clearly flawed in the bass region IMO. The mid-upper bass which gives an acoustic instruments its woodiness character and to some extent the body was lacking seriously IMO.

Agree. The lack in the mid upper bass is due to the tiny cabinet volume of the bookshelf models. Anybody know how many litres Rio uses?

Apart from that, the driver they use is an aurasound woofer. For the price of Rio, you would expect accuton or scanspeak revelator etc.
Not a $20 woofer!

I did not know this at first but green mountain audio is a one man show.  They have apparently been around for a long time but for better or worse, they have not grown their company and become a B&W. 
And ultimately if a company produces speakers which only appeal to a small subset of audiophiles, this means it is does not have universal appeal and that is because of the unique way it sounds. That is to say, it is colored. 

I am not going to slander anybody as it is illegal. But this is an audio forum where audiophiles are free to express their opinions. Its not just just compliments, we need to hear complaints as well. I will make sure everything I say respects the rules of this forum. Thank you very much

I really dont have an axe to grind. I have happily moved on from my bad experience with these. That doesnt mean I should not post in any thread about GMA. 

As you say people are free to choose what they like. If my opinion is rubbish I am fine with that. 

If one thinks GMA is no good then one is free to produce and sell better speakers. 

If you want to buy them that is fine too.

Newer versions of the Rio have been introduced using the pretext of 'better time coherence' which audiophiles accept without questioning, whereas if you listen to the speakers, (which i have personally done) what you find is a difference in the TONALITY. For example the difference in sound between the rio and the chroma, is that the forwardness noted in the review is now gone but its still not right, in my view.

you jumped in to say bad things about the Chroma, Roy and GMA

I wish i had seen threads like this before my purchase. Look, GMA make speakers which are divisive. I will not apologise for saying i hated their sound. It is the absolute truth.  
Why would I lie? if I loved them why would i say theyre horrible?
Ive owned PMC, B&W to name a couple and they were a fraction of the cost of the GMA but the GMA did not sound better it sounded (far ) worse. 

Now as far as the other points i made about cheap parts, thick cabinet walls, no chamfering, lobing, if you dont agree, then attack the points I made, dont attack me.

4th order crossovers are HARDER to do than 1st order not easier. They require more parts and each has to be chosen to within a tighter tolerance than wit 1st order.

And GMA say that they are 1st order but their tweeter is rolling off at 2khz so obviously its not going to be first order below 2khz once you add that roll off onto the natural rolloff. There is also no impedance correction on the tweeter so at its resonance you wont be getting much attenuation there either. The 14cm centre to centre distance between their drivers causes lobing at all frequencies above 1.25khz. (1.25khz is the frequency such that half of its wavelength is 14cm.)
Clearly with a first order crossover the only way to avoid lobing is by using concentric drivers

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/seas-soft-dome-tweeters/seas-prestige-27tdfc-h1189-textile-dome-tweeter/

You can see the rolloff at 2khz

What makes GMA so special that it requires a special room to work in? Why is it that my PMC sounded acceptable in the same room? and the cheap B&W speakers before that? And every other speaker I've tried?
But not GMA?
Is there any aspect of GMA speakers which CAN be faulted? If so, what? Can they be improved? How?
Does the title of this thread allude to the fact that GMA are not 'warm' sounding?
How do you explain the reviewers same opinion that there is a lack of warmth and tonal neutrality? Are we all wrong?
http://www.hifinews.co.uk/news/article/green-mountain-audio-eos-pound;4400/7610

Oh, and my listening space was small, and far from ideal.

Tell Roy that and ask him why they worked in your room but not mine!

Electrons travel at the same speed whether going through a first order crossover or a 100th order crossover. The electrons will reach your tweeter at the same time as they do your woofer. There is no such thing as ’’time coherence’’ it is a false marketing term just like the false claims of burn in. Please do not be fooled. Do your homework. Dont just jump on the bandwagon and believe what this guy says.
Its a false argument given to differentiate a product from the rest of the bunch.
See point number 8 on the list of gimmicks

http://www.audioholics.com/how-to-shop/avoiding-loudspeaker-gimmicks

Lobing on the other hand is real and first orders create the worst. If you dont believe me, move up and down in front of any first order speaker and you will hear severe changes in sound making it difficult to get the correct tonality.

The other fallacy which Roy perpetuates is the false dilemma that you either choose a first order or a higher order crossover. Neither are ideal. Both make different trade offs.

Anybody who currently owns GMA speakers can vastly improve their performance by the following way. This modification will work very well for Rio, Eos and Europa (and any other speaker). You will get the warmth that is lacking.

Buy a pair of these digital plate amplifiers. They require a pc to set the crossover settings. You will then need to unscrew the drivers and then desolder the wires and wire some cables onto the drivers and pass them out of the port (or from the back if you drill a hole in the wood at the back). very easily done.

You can choose any crossover slope you like from first order to fourth order and any type from bessel, butterworth to linkwitz riley.
You can also equalise the tweeter and woofers response to flatten them. You can also add or take away time delay on the tweeter.
You can do all of this in real time and compare the results.

Come back and tell us whether you prefer the sound. You cant go wrong with this. Even if you want to stick with first order slopes, it is still vastly better to go active than passive. You cannot lose. Even if you want to replicate the original transfer function of the passive crossover,
you can do this AND benefit from the active amplification.
You will immediately hear the difference between 1st and 4th order.

Once you get these plate amps, you can even upgrade the tweeter (and woofer) on your speakers to higher quality ones. Possibilities are endless.

https://www.minidsp.com/products/plate-amplifiers/pwr-ice125

In the highly unlikely event you want to go back to the original speaker, that is easily done since this is a reversible modification.

I did not enter this topic to start an argument or complaint about my purchase. I already did that with the relevant organisation, the Better Business Bureau. THAT was your opportunity to respond to my complaint and engage in a discussion but you refused to reply to any of their numerous letters sent to you on my behalf.
This is not the place to discuss such matters. You already chose to refuse an invitation to discuss this off the forum.

Here is the proof of the complaint: http://www.bbb.org/southern-colorado/business-reviews/audio-visual-equipment-rent-and-lease/green-mountain-audio-in-colorado-springs-co-6362500/complaints

They certainly did not dismiss my complaint and the fact that you refused to enter into any discussion at the time, diminishes your credibility.

I have no axe to grind, so I won’t bother to get into a discussion about anything that does not pertain to the technical aspects of Green mountain speakers.

bombaywalla, what did i say that amounts to slander? Everything I speak is based on experience and true facts to the best of my knowledge.
If you want to bring slander into this then how about I question all the claims about time cohesion, magic wires and 'burn in' which are used to advertise their products? 

By the way in response to your comment, my room is not faulty. The dealer from green mountain came round to set them up himself. Furthermore, I have had many speakers from pmc to b&w to cheaper ones whose tonality was just fine. If you read both the original Rio review (and the Eos review) you can see that there were issues with tonality. Roy Johson does not admit faults with his products. I am not afraid to condemn this attitude.

There is no minimum order for most drivers including scanspeak. you could buy one single accuton driver if you wanted to.

It’s a question of getting your moneys worth. If the parts used in the Rio/chromatose only cost say $100 yet it is sold for nearly $4000 the price you pay is going towards the rent for the factory and profit. Your hard earned money isnt going into the product you are spending it on.

Now the basic Rio model costs $2800 but they are charging you $1000 bucks more for their magic wire and burn in process. Audiophiles need to be educated so that they dont fall for this nonsense. Ask for proof that any of this makes a difference.

For $4000 you could buy a whole hifi, or a pair of devaliet phantom etc.
There are many more companies now producing products using more technology for less money. If you pay $4000 and all you get is a $20 woofer a few crossover parts, and a marble cabinet, it doesnt seem to me like good value. But then again, you could also buy $4000 interconnects so its up to you whether you want to spend your money wisely or stupidly.

As I said before, if you want to feel how much distortion is going into the Rio tweeter, just put your hand on the tweeter while the music is playing and feel the vibrations. Tweeter are not designed to play such low frequencies. The seas tweeter they use rolls off at 1khz. So you should only be using it down to about 1500 if you want best sound quality. If you cut corners, then you push the tweeter beyond its limits.
This is exactly why most companies dont use just a single capacitor on a tweeter.