Wall Receptacle Oyaide R0, Furutech GTX-G and SR Black UEF


Hi there been searching around for some good receptacles as I am about to do some reno work for a dedicated room and I have narrowed down to these 3 brands based on what I have read in the web and on the availability within my reach. 

I am thinking of getting one of them but problem is, it is not easy to do a comparison specifically to these 3 series and I have not read so far anyone doing a comparison for specifically the oyaide R0 receptacle which is an unplated version of R1. 

So I am asking here for some help if anyone have had the privilege trying them all in their setup? I have read the thread on this forum "SR red fuse" started by Oregonpapa touching on the SR blacks receptacle with David pritchard comments on it which is btw a very good and informative thread and I have ordered the SR black fuse for my amp based on their reviews and other members too who have pitched in too.

There lots of other kinds of receptacles around and I am aware there are some that do not believe with those uber expensive receptacles performing better than a hospital grade receptacle but then this hobby is full of surprises and voodoos that over the years have made me a believer.
 
A little detail on my setup I am using ARC's (ref150,ref 6 and cd 9) paired up with SF Guarneri EVO's. As for cables am using full loom Transparent Ultra MM2 hooked on to my QB8 which is using Frey 2 power cable to my wattgate wall receptacle.
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Showing 5 responses by nmmusicman

Being a long time Oyaide user/advocate, I could shed a bit of light on the R1 vs. R0 outlets. The R1 is one of the most refined outlets available with excellent octave to octave balance along with an excellent delineated soundstage. However, it is somewhat romantic and as such should be chosen with care when implemented in ones system.

The R0 is a much more refined R1 with the romanticism stripped away 
which yields a most stunningly accurate soundstage and bass control.
The highs are as neutral as I've heard along with a linear midband.

Of course, anyone considering outlets in this category should seriously
start with the Oyaide WPC-Z wall mount plate system as this allows the outlet(s) to really show their attributes. 

As to the other 2 outlets, I have a SR Tesla Plex SE and it is a very nice piece providing an outstanding soundstage along with solid top to bottom balance and extended/refined lows. I use one to feed my REL Stadium lll subbass system with outstanding results

I've always wanted to try the Furutech outlets and may do so here someday, especially the GTX series.

Hope this helps
IME, the WPC-Z wall mount system is not just an accessory but an essential building block to allow the Oyaide, or other outlets, to perform to their maximum potential and worth every penny for the ROI delivered. 

An additional item I would like to mention is Oyaide is now offering an unplated version of the P004 male plug which should be a most synergistic match with the RO outlet.

As an aside, I just received an unplated P004 but have yet to press it into service. I'll report out when I have done so.
Macdude,

I had the same experience as you when I first starting using Oyaide outlets. Issues I thought were related to digital playback were in fact power related to my outlet/power conditioning. Each step up the Oyaide line, while sometimes sideways, was always an improvement  to digital playback and to everything else as well, just not as dramatic as the digital transformation. 

Going to high current balanced power was the best upgrade I've made.
" Nmmusicman, what balanced power setup are you using?"

I'm using a dedicated 20 amp line to the listening room with a Platinum Power PP-1 balanced power transformer with a rated capacity of 2400VA.
I'm also using a second unit for the HT system.

The transformers for the PP-1 were custom made to Platinum Power specs by Plitron using 10 gauge wiring instead of the usual 12 gauge along with other proprietary tweaks. Unfortunately, Platinum Power is long out of business and units very seldom come up for sale if at all.
Hi macdude,

"I would also place the PP-1 on isolation feet or an isolation stand if you haven't already done so. That will make a big difference.

How about this:  The PP-1 in the main rig is placed on maglev isolators which in turn are placed on a Sound Anchors amp stand that is filled with 10lbs of sand that is then spiked to the cement pad thru the carpet. In addition, the first outlet in the daisy chain has been replaced by an Oyaide RO. My amp and REL sub are connected to the first outlet. There are also TeknaSonics C-5 and C-10 vibration transducers strategically placed on the chassis.

The PP-1 in the HT system is placed on a Steve Blinn component rack where it is isolated with German Acoustics spike feet that are interfaced with low durometer o-rings. There is also a TeknaSonics C-5 vibration transducer on the chassis. Inside are Walker Audio resonance control discs placed for best results. 

I'm glad you are liking the results from the R0, it will only get better as it breaks in. Please keep us posted to the RO performance attributes.

Cheers