Wall Outlet Oyaide, Furutek, Wattgate, and others


Hi

Any recommendation which the Better Wall Outlet : Bicchino , Furutek , Oyaide , Wattgate or Others?
i used the power. Cord : Elrod Statement Gold, Diamand for the Amp,
And Purist 25 Anniversary for the rest equipment.j
mehdi

Showing 6 responses by davehrab

Birds of a feather flock together ... look to match the type of alloy in your power cord’s termination to a similar alloy in the wall outlet ... this way there is only one signature metal and not two

Your Elrod Diamond has a F1 Oyaide beryllium copper termination .. match it to a beryllium copper outlet like a Oyaide R1 or RO or the mentioned Furutech

I am not familiar with the PAD line but let’s assume for sake of argument that the terminations on the PAD power cords are the best Phosphors Bronze type Jim could find ... then I would match the PAD power cords up with the best Phosphorous Bronze outlet I could find

Plating will also have to be taken into consideration ... your Elrod’s beryllium copper is platinum and palladium plated and would match well to the Oyaide R1 outlet

If this combo is a little to incise ... you can go with the Oyaide RO beryllium copper with no plating or the Furutech with it’s slightly warmer and very pleasant gold plating

You’ll have to do some research on the type of termination the PAD cords have and then just find the matching alloy outlet
Here’s a new contender for your consideration ... New Heavy Weight Contender

Everything in your power deliver circuit sits in series from your panel box through your dedicated line to your outlet and to the power cord and component ... it all lies in series

The most important thing in your power delivery system is “low series resistance” ... look at the specs on this new Heavy Weight Contender’s resistance against two of the other giants in the industry
“Because it is what I close to believe”

A lot of mfgers are now offering cables that are 7 and 9 gauge ... why so big ? Would they go through all the effort and expense for no benefit and what is the benefit of going to a larger gauge

Every thing in the chain from the power company to your component lies in series with the other connecting components

Unlike IC and speaker cables that must be driven by a low impedance source’s to a high impedance load’s and can be impacted by the LCR reactants ... power deliver components just sit there as a connection between two point acting as a bridge would in connecting the north and south banks of a river
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Ozzy .. the price listed in the Lit. is 180? ... not sure if the ? is US dollars or Euro .. also need to check on shipping tariffs and taxes before there is any surprises from Europe

Assuming their resistance and grip figures are genuine this could be a real contender ... I don’t put much credence in the listening evaluation comparisons as that is more a subjective opinion where as the resistance and grip numbers are objective measurements

The other red flag is the use of the phrase “Pure Copper Conductors’ ... that might be a bit soft to work with so I would be interest in knowing which alloy Tin or Phosphorus/bronze they are based on ... my preference is beryllium like in my R1s and PS Audio Premier Ports

I think the word “Copper” is loosely interpreted and can lose something in translation from a foreign manufacture ... Pacific rim mfgers often use the word “Red Copper” to refer to the premium grade alloy they use ... but I believe the Red Copper is only Phosphorous Bronze and not the higher quality Beryllium grade alloy

If anybody can tech this one out it’s you Ozzy ... go get em Dog

Zd542 ... it’s not that difficult to understand and has been around since the days of Edison ... put some current through a resister and you will get a voltage drop ... a voltage drop = signal loss .. signal loss = information gone forever

Our components draw power off the peaks of the sine wave and in bursts ... it is not like water that is constantly flowing evenly out of a faucet ... it only draws current when it’s needed and how much it needs but if it isn’t there when it’s needed because resistance has reduced the voltage ... well then you stepped in the stream but the water passed you by

Should be Clear as Vodka now
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Al .. I haven’t been completely “Transparent” about my obsession with series resistance ...

My original post was nothing but an attempt to offer some incite on matching the metallurgy of the power cord to the wall outlet for a better compatibility

Any body that can afford Elrod Diamond series and PAD 25th anniversary certain has the ware with all to move above Hubble and Pass Seymour

When I stumbled upon the Receptilock I was intrigued by the advanced looking body shell which looks like ground up purpose built and intoxicated by the low resistance and grip numbers vs the other well known outlets

So why my obsession with low series resistance ... isn’t resistance equated with the DC side ... if we were talking about AC current ... wouldn’t we refer to the opposing force against the signal as “Impedance” and not Resistance

With my very limited knowledge I’m guessing that if you know the L/C/R values you can calculate Impedance ... and if you held the L and C values dead fixed in place and varied the R value ... then Impedance would swing in the same direction as series resistance ... If the resistance goes up and L and C are held constant ... wouldn’t impedance go up and vice versa

Let me ask this .. if series resistance rises does impedance also rise and do I want a power deliver component with a high or higher Impedance or a low or lower impedance for current delivery
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Hello Al ... thanks for your enlightenment and how do you get your posts up so quick ... mine seem to take forever ..

I couldn’t agree more with both your posts about a point of diminishing returns and how going to far can be detrimental ... also at certain levels things can be insignificant and irrelevant

I seemed to have gotten off course when I received a poke in the eye with a sharp stick over my comment
The most important thing in your power delivery system is “low series resistance

It appears you support this point with your comment
In a local (in-house) power distribution system, however, impedance at 60 Hz will be dominated by resistance. Inductance and capacitance will become more significant at the frequencies of the much higher frequency components of the AC waveform

I never meant to imply that L and C were irrelevant ... only that R was more of a concern when looking at all 3 ... the reason being is rising series resistance would also increase Impedance
And, yes, resistance in series will add to impedance.

And the last piece of the puzzle is high or low Impedance ...
In answer to your last question, the impedance of the power delivery system should be low,
The enemy of my enemy is my friend ... Sun Tzu ... doesn’t inductance act as a low pass filter allowing low frequencies to pass while presenting a rising Impedance to frequencies as they rise ... I think that’s what you are saying

at least at frequencies up to and somewhat beyond the frequency components corresponding to the brief high current spikes that have been mentioned. (Series impedance that is high at frequencies greater than that may be helpful in reducing noise, but I would not expect an outlet to play much of a role in that regard).
OK so the outlet may not play a significant role in reducing RF.. but isn’t the Inductance of the cabling our friend in helping defeat some RF ?

My comments' are much more theory based to try and understand which direction things move in and their possible effects where as you’ve run the numbers and can speak from a practical stand point of the value of those numbers ... but it seems we agree

Increase series resistance will raise impedance and we would prefer to have a deliver system with a low Impedance

Now I would like to share some incite with you ....

If you want to teach your grandchildren about taxes ... eat 30 percent of their Ice Cream (;-

Best Dave