VPI Scout "tweaks"


My analog rig consists of a Scout with JMW-9, Dynavector 10X5, SDS, Sutherland Ph3d, VPI turntable IC, and Gingko Cloud 9. I have the geometry set via MintLP. The rest of my system is comprised of Vandersteen 2Ce sigs, Rogue Magnum 66, Anthem MCA-20 and Audioquest Diamondback IC's and Bedrock speaker cables.
It sounds really good so my question is...are there any upgrades/tweaks that will make a definitive improvement, short of buying a new table? I have about $1k to spend. Thanks in advance.
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Showing 9 responses by stanwal

I talked to Harry today and he said that current suppliers could only guarantee a 1/8 inch tolerance on a 2" sheet of acrylic, which might mean a 1/4" variation. I am using Van den Hul the First Ultimate metal screened ICs, they are a big step up from stock. Also try a power cord upgrade. I am using the Siltech that Spirit Sound was selling for $90 for 2 Ms.
You laugh but a manufactures kit I still have came with 4 pennies to put under the spikes. After 20 years I forget who it was from. Possibly B&W. Seriously, something like Star Sounds discs under feet makes a considerable difference.
Apparently VPI is switching to an aluminum platter for the Scout. What difference this will make I have no idea.
One that is cheap but that makes a considerable difference I just discovered tonight. Put Star Sound coupling disks under the feet. I had my Scoutmaster on the TNT stand resting on top of which was a 3" maple platform supported by Star Sound cones. I thought that this would make anything else unnecessary but the disks really tightened up the bass and made the top end better. They are brass and cost $8.69 each. They also have replacement feet for the tables but not sure which ones they fit. Going to check on this.
Got the brass feet from Star Sound last night. To my ear they were a big improvement. Instead of aluminum feet coupled to the table by a large rubber washer you have a machined brass foot coupled to the table directly. What I heard was increased transparency with better bass and transient response. No magic involved, brass is almost universally considered to be a better material than aluminum and costs much more. I ask Harry about it before I bought some and he thought it might well be an improvement. The ones that fit are the 1/4th-20 thread ones.
Harry told me which to use. I think the others are for the older tables. The 1/4th -20 work, I have been using them. I ordered the washers in case but horrors! didn't level my table when I put the new feet on. I know, I should have but it sounded great. My new table is here so I have to take the new feet off the Scoutmaster and put them on the Aries. The 1.5 is the correct height. Just a little lower than the VPI but works fine. Use one washer and it will be the same. The 2" height would probably work too if they have the right thread size. The coupling discs work too. I have been very happy with Star Sound products, their rep lives in town and he brought some over; thats when I decided to become a dealer. In case any of you think I am promoting them to make money, I haven't actually sold any yet. I don't maintain that they are the absolute best thing on the market, there are many products I haven't heard. But they do work as described and have made my system sound considerably better. Stan
It is 1.5AP-1A.5. with 1/4-20 thread. The coupling discs have only one size. Stan
4, they replace the original VPI feet. You unscrew them and screw these in in their place. Very straightforward. Takes about five minutes if you are younger, 10 if you are my age.
Another thing to try is to remove the rubber feet from the turntable motor and replace them with the smallest Audio Points [Star Sound]. I have just done this with my Aries and the difference was considerable. I took the rubber feet off the Scout motor and replaced it with some sorbothane discs which helped but did not make the same difference. Going to change it next.