Vintage DD turntables. Are we living dangerously?

I'd like to get eventually a second TT, the Victor TT-101 could be the one or a PD-444

Have a question for you experts, just remember I am learning about analog and some things I might get it wrong.
Just recently acquired a PD-444, the ability of mounting 2 tonearms and looked in good condition it made it hard to pass by, still waiting for it to be delivered. I've got an EPA-100 mk2 for it with an SH-100, as I understand it this is a Medium to High mass tonearm which would benefit from moderate to low compliance cartridges.
For alignment, what do you guys recommend? the tonearm original mounting template is at $120 on Ebay which is nice but a racket IMO. I've got the protractor that comes with the Hifi News record but seems to be Bearwalds whether this specific and most japanese arms are Stevenson.
Raul posted that some tonerarm alignments even the manufacturer got it wrong (was it Saec?)
So my question would be which type of alignment should I follow?
P2S is 250mm and Overhang 15mm
Any specific method to test the bearings?
Any cartridge recommended for it?
As a second tonearm for the PD-444 what should I look for? MA-505LS? FR-64s or 66s? apparently the SAEC's and Victors are not that good as the FR and MA per previous comments. Just trying to look for a versatile tonearm different than the EPA-100?Note I also have a 1200mk5 Technics with medium mass tonearm.
Thank you in advance for your answers, I'm excited with learning and rediscovering vinyl.
Raul, looking forward to your comments (bad or good) I won't complain, your experience is legendary
Chak, of course I'm interested on your comments tooLew and Nandric, I respect you immensely, you guys make a lot of sense.
All the best
Luis

Thank you @chakster , for the tips. I'm excited rediscovering analog, my 1200mk5 which supposedly is not an audiophile class TT sounds great compared to my digital, I would say different. I can only imagine the possibilities with the PD-444 and two good tonearms and carts.

@dgarretson Thank you so much, I will certainly PM you, a good friend of mine has a workshop where he makes furniture with wood and metal, I installed the CNC control computers for him, and Solidworks too, he can design anything and have the router to machine the wood piece, it will be just a matter of selecting the right wood or board, I am not a TT expert nor I have too much experience except with TT that are ready to play :) but wood expands and contracts more than particle board, it is also more dense which is good so I guess you guys will know which material is best. I guess granite would be too hard to prepare for this task.Wow, a PD-444 with 3 arms !!!!!

@chakster thank you for pointing out the dimensions, you are correct it cannot be mounted on the PD-444's existing stock mounts, what @dgarretson is saying is different, it is adding a pivoting board to add the arm.I don't have the PD-444 yet, it is in transit, I have seen pictures but not the actual unit and thought what dgarretson proposed was a symmetric extension to the TT, but it is an attachable board and indeed something will have to be devised to make that happen. It certainly won't look too appealing to the eye but he made an ingenious design which apparently it also eliminates some vibrations with the wenge extension. You have to "attach" the wenge to the base of the PD-444 though (logically),  I am thankful for your proposal @dgarretson to provide the details, kudos to you for such ingenious solution, and I know it works, but I think I'm going to pass on this one, I have a DP-80 also coming and possibly I could get or make a plinth for the DP-80 and make it work with the EPA-100.I would not want to screw the wenge to the PD-444 bottom, I know it is not visible as it is under the TT but really want to keep it vintage unmodified (if possible). Thank you very much for being so kind to offer some help with my initial question.

I am in the process of opening my PD-444, checking the boards etc. very clean I have to say.Should I lubricate (or try) the spindle from the inside of the motor? with synthetic oil? or I better leave it the way it is?
I just realized that loosing the screws of the motor you need to adjust it so the plate turns freely or it could get close to the actual plinth ...

Just found this by Lew

In addition to adjusting the screw under the bearing well in order to set platter height, one can also shim the motor up, if the platter is rubbing on the escutcheon. I found on my TT101, in the course of investigating this new noise issue, that my motor is shimmed by two very thin washers under 2 of the 3 fastening screws. Under the third screw, there are 3 such washers (or shims).

So I guess I have to play with the washers and get the platter higher and free of the "escutcheon" 1st time I have seen that word

This is certainly odd to say the least, I can't fit the motor back in a way the platter doesn't touch the plinth and turns freely, it came already kind of leaning towards the right by a millimeter or so but now it just won't fit properly, I wonder if I should use washers to keep the motor lifted higher and the platter higher too

Thanks @big_greg but I see the platter touching the "escutcheon"Opened the motor there is nowhere to put oil there, looks completely sealed, from the top of the spindle it looks sealed too I don't know if putting one drop of oil there will go "in".When I mount the motor again I noticed you can move it from the bottom with a better grip and I might be able to adjust it to spin farther from other parts.

Certainly good advice, I just don’t have the skills or tools to open the actual motor where the spindle and magnet mechanism are, afraid to break it, I could open the housing but removing the board with these thin wires etc. I don’t think will do.Eventually I could locate a skilled tech who could take a look and do some of the advisable maintenance you are mentioningThank you for sharing your experience ..

Have to report adjusting and centering the motor on the PD-444 was extremely easy once you know how to do it. I am stunned by how simplistic yet great engineering this TT offers, I am sure it is not the best TT out there, surpassed by some others but mounting arms and fiddling around with the TT this was really designed for simple operation.

Hey Lew, not really, there are 4 screws attaching the motor to the plinth and 1 single washer between the motor and such plinth but the trick to align the motor is to handle the motor from below, you get a better grip and there is some tolerances to wiggle it and adjust it any way you want, very simple system.The spindle removal seems to be challenging, I opened the motor and there is a board but I can't see how to access the spindle, there are some wires going into that area and looks complex to manage and get in there.Per some other member recommendations I am using this oil as multipurpose for everything " ROYAL PURPLE SYNTHETIC" looks to be appropriate.Here are some pictures how the board look, this TT either had almost no use or it was serviced and I am inclined to think it was serviced indeed, it is very clean inside
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/e6zkpkdj0jf83mo/AADJGfDYFFKoj5o6m5ZKdZjMa?dl=0

feel free to PM me for a Digikey BOM of the appropriate Panasonic substitutions

@dgarretson Thank you so much, I will PM you, it is indeed a good idea, my soldering skills are not that good but a friend of mine could do it, and I will pay him so he will be happy.

a simple matter of removing a few screws that must hold the PCB

@lewm It looks simple to remove the screws but my concern is the wires, if I go replacing the caps I can do it at that time

They go bad on the shelf perhaps faster than when subject to frequent use in circuit

Yeah I agree, it is a good idea.

As an aside, the wiring harness is as much of a rat's nest as what one finds inside a TT101

:)