Hello Halcro,
I own 2 of the TT-81's. One is in storage sitting on the shelf. It has been completely rebuilt (including all caps.)
Your comment about it "must be the bargain of the century" is something I have to agree with. I also own a VPI Aries Extended with all mods. I prefer the TT-81!
Regards'
Don |
I, being the owner of two TT-81's, also pay close attention to anything related to our DD tables!
(grin) |
Hi Halcro,
In addition to my TT-81, I also run the VPI Aries. Mods on it include that thick 2 inch acrylic platter. Because of the 'not so subtle differences' between the two turntables, I installed the Accromat from Firm Funk in place of the rubber mat on the Victor. It is a type of acrylic and I now find the two quite comparable in their performance signatures.
I have thought about these leather mats but have never given one a try. Have you ever tried an acrylic mat on your TT-101? If so, how did or does it compare to those leather mats?
BTW: I completely agree with your assessment of the original rubber mat that came with the Victor turntables. I could not replace mine fast enough. It truly was an overall dull presentation when compared to the VPI Aries. Thanks to the acrylic mat, this has been corrected!
Regards, |
Hi Henry,
This Jico mat that you use on your TT-101. Does it fit 'in' the lip of the platter or did you have to trim it a little?
I ask because I am considering ordering one.
Also, how did you connect the link from the work Jico that you typed in one of your above responses. This I ask because I try to learn something everyday!
Best regards, |
Doron,
+1
I have read your post a couple of times. Made me think!
Thanks. |
Halcro,
When your Acromat arrives, you will notice that it has square edges. Looking at the inside of the base of the raised edge on the platter, you will see that there is a slight radius. Because the Acromat's diameter is a tight fit when placed in the lip of the Victor's platter,this radius to square corner bothered me so I did slightly chamfer (bevel), the underside edge of the Acromat so that I wasn't worried about interference (the square corner riding a radius). I might have been overreacting to a possible non-existent problem but had I not done something, I would have thought about this for ever. Anyway, the Acromat sands very easy so take my comments only as something to consider.
Hope you like what it brings to the party! (grin)
Regards, |
Halcro,
Did you use the double-back tape to attach the Achromat to the Victor platter? I ask because my mat could not be any flatter! I've checked it with a straightedge.
BTW: Jico just got a little more of my money! (grin) Place an order
Regards. |
Halcro,
Good to hear your 101 has once again, a 'clean bill of health'! Who would of thought it could have possibly been a solder joint. You got a good tech. I will keep this information close to heart if something goes wrong with either of my TT-81's.
Regards, |
Totem395
Heat is the curse of audio components. I would hate to think you destroyed your TT101 or any audio component for that matter due to lack of circulation. I would think it was designed with its bottom hanging out for a reason.
Regards, |
Halcro and Fleib,
I have not had a need to check the V/E web site in regards the the service manual because I received the original manual with my TT-81. It does state what Halcro has repeated from the V/E site.
Regards, |
Fleib.
I also have a VPI Aries. I sent an email to VPI asking them for the price of an arm board for this Aries table so that I could mount a Lustre 801 arm that I have an opportunity to own. I was told by a return email that they no longer provide arm boards for the Aries!
How are people suppose to deal with NEW tables that they can not get parts for?
Yes, I could get some aftermarket outfit to make an arm board, but is that any different that getting someone to fix a 35 year old table?
No dealer support is "no dealer support". No matter how old it is!
Regards.
|
Fleib,
I do hope what ever is wrong with your UA-7045 is something that can be easily fixed. That is the tone arm I currently have mounted on my TT-81. You will be quite impressed with it if becomes fully operational.
In regards to the arm board on my Aries. It currently has the Graham arm board which I bought from Bob Graham to use with his 2.2 arm. I do have the original arm board that came with the Aries. It has been drilled for the Graham but I have not checked it to see if I could possible re-drill it to make it usable for the Lustre.
In all honesty, I have never had any problem with getting anything from VPI before. But they did sell a lot of these so I suspect they just sold all their back stock. I was quite surprised at their reply. It is after all nothing but a acrylic hockey puck!
Bob Graham has done the same thing with his arm wands for the 1.5, 2.0 and the 2.2. Due to certain production parts being unobtainable, you can not buy additional arm wands. He will do limited repair based upon parts available. This arm is not that old! I know our world has become a throw-away society, but come on!
Regards, |
Fleib,
When you say VTF adjuster 'lock' are you referring to the locking nut that allows the shaft to freely move up and down? There is a nut that attaches the arm to the arm board. Then there is a nut that unlocks the arm shaft that would allows the shaft to freely move up and down when opened. When you 'unlock' it, hold on to the arm because it will freely fall and bottom out. You use that one to get the working end of the cartridge into the 'general' VTA area. Once both of those nuts are locked into place, then you can use the 'numbered' VTA adjuster +/- thumb wheel device to fine tune VTA.
To do the initial set up, I set the +/- thumb wheel in the center of its +/- range. There are arrows to define this position. Then loosen the locking nut while holding onto the arm so it doesn't drop down freely, then roughly position the arm where I think it should go, lock the nut, the do the final VTA settings. Once you have done this a couple of times, you kind of get the feel for where the shaft should be located when you lock the nut. If it was set (locked), with the arm too low, you will be forced to use only one end of the
+/- scale. Too high, you will be forced to use the other end of the scale. I shoot for a general 'center' position of the +/- scale. I shoot for that position mainly because of all the different height cartridges that I have.
Regards,
Don |
Fleib,
You bring up a good point. There is no piece of equipment that can measure W&F of true absolute '0'. So at some point in this discussion, it is going to have to be accepted that the TT-101 is probably at that threshold of being
non-existent in this regard of 'measurable' W&F |
Damn, just how complicated 'can' we built this mousetrap!!!!! |
Hiho,
Pick up a replacement stylus for a AT 440MLa. I ran that on my TK-5Ea and was surprised at how great that combination was. I liked it even better than my TK-7SU.
Regards, |
Lewm,
Damn, life just sucks sometimes! I say that with 'tongue in cheek'! (grin)
We should all be so un-lucky!
Regards! |
