Upper Level Vintage DD Strenghts and Weaknesses

Vintage DD, Quartz Locked, YEAH!

To me, it’s a visual preference, I like the JVC spinner look more than someone else who prefers the Denon look.

A few Pioneer semi-automatic wood base tempted me, but I went for TT81 in JVC 7 layer 2 arm-board Plinth. Had I known, and where I ended up (3rd arm squeezed in) I might have gone for the rare and bigger plinth with 3 removable arm-boards.

The 7 layer plinths of either Denon or JVC-Victor are terrific, and the real wood veneers are very nice. Some vintage TT’s are wood looking vinyl. No functional difference IF it has the 7 layer construction, just if you care (I like real wood).

I researched, decided the TT81 was the one for me, (actually a TT71 is also quartz locked, I just came across TT81). I typically try for a level below the top, i.e. the more advanced 101 or 801, even if I won the lottery, would give me nothing audibly different, potential problems, decided not to go there.

That Sony (I read about it, I forget, metalized plastic?) deck, even if technically/measurably better on a test bench, didn’t appeal to me, it would reduce the pleasure each and every time I glanced at it. Someone else, it’s the greatest. But then it seems you get a potential bearing problem with their TT’s which I would likely not have been aware of.
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I agree with chakster, add a layer of isolation under any TT, I went for a variation of these below the factory adjustable leveling feet

https://www.amazon.com/Turntable-Equipment-Tuneful-Cables-Audiophile/dp/B076DGD3X2/ref=sr_1_16?dchil...

I was going to conceal them with a skirt, but Donna likes the light coming thru under the TT so maybe I will go for something more attractive.

Townsend is talking about vibration coming from the earth up into the speakers. He expects the speaker enclosure to be 'solid enough' that it doesn't move, but let's not shake it (the enclosure).

That's what I need to prevent happening up to my TT from my springy floors, vibration any fool can feel.

So I use Isoblocks below the plinth that let the shake calm down by the time I walk away and the 1st track's content begins. Once the plinth is stable, it doesn't hurt to put it on something soft, thus I recommend it.

If you look at my system, photo of speaker face down with back removed, my speakers are on 3 hard caster wheels, and are angled up (see the block of wood above the 2 front wheels), thus the tops are slanted. This projects the tweeters directly at seated ear level, and prevents reflections parallel to the floor or ceiling. Toe-in prevents parallel side wall reflections. And slanted front effects time alignment if you think it matters.

Now look at the 1st photo, all the pretty things sitting on the slanted speaker tops. Vibrate/slide? Nope.

The 15" woofer weighs 37lbs, a monster magnet, the two horns are heavy.

Zero vibration, nothing moves just the cones, the air, far better than you would expect without computer designed internal bracing of any kind.

I ordered softer wheels based on Townsend's 'theory' (probably measurable, thus no longer theory). The wheel's axels were 'loose', no good, put my original ones back on.

I think you can make a mess of things trying to fix some infinitesimal ....