Two Sunfire Signature's wired together?

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You can count on it!

I have two bridged Sunfire Amps which I used to drive the the four 12" woofers in the bass towers for my old Infinity Betas (circa 80s). I used Counterpoint Natural Progrssion Mono Blocks to drive the remaining drivers in the HF/mid panels--all EMIT ribbons including the most awesome midbass ribon panels. The bass was crossed over at 80 hz 18 db per octive.

Even though the Counterpoints only put out 150 watts per, they were far and away the highest current amps on the market and they literally made all the ribbons including the dificult midbass ribbons sing. Pure magic. The combination was absolutely the best sound I'd ever heard from a stereo system.. A doctor friend of mine who owned the Infinity IRS $175,000 reference system which was driven by a Jadis Defy 7 on top and the 1000 watts per mono amps built in Infinity amps for thre 6 12" woofers in each bass tower came over to compare sounds based on memory. Less than an hour into the listening session he literally started to cry. His girlfriend asked him what was wrong and hew said he'd wasted all that money and the Betas driven by that combination (and an Audio Research LS-2a mark II preamp) literally blew his $200,000+ investment away.

Alas, my then wife (now ex) sold the Betas out from under me after conning me into joining her brother on the links for a liesurely round of golf one saturday and the dream was shattered.

Ironically, I now own Carver ALS speakers with two 32" verticcal ribbons each reaching way down into the 100s hertz-wize and 4 12" woofers complementing the ribbons on both speakers. I'm going to have to reconfigure the speakers for bi-amping. The Counterpoints sound very good driving them full range, but they really can't handle all the power guzzling and wildly unstable loads if you want to play transients at sound levels that I'm used to but my new wife complains about. I can't use the bridged Sunfires or I'll undoubtedly blow them trying to drive a load which is supposedly 3.75 ohms (but probably closer to 3 ohms realistically);

Now I'll have to unbridge them and biamp vertically. *@*

It'll be awesome!

Well I'm half way there! I got the two Sunfires back from Randy at Sunfire whjich turns out to be less than 10 miles from my home. They are restored to original factory specs and updated. I now must biamp the Carver Amazing Loudspeakers, original edition. I thought the cheapest way to do so would be to connect the ribbons through the passive crossover within through the existng speaker binding posts and add a second set by soldering a piece of good bass speaker cable like the old Tara Labs Temporal Continuum (which should make the bass drivers much stiffer and produce tightly controlled bass) directly to the woofers bypassing the crossover altogether. .

But it must connect to an electronic crossover between the preamps second outputs and the amplifier driving the bass signal. I've many hours trying to check out which would work the best by jumping around on the internet but the best ones are apparantly no longer made.

Which crossover works best with ribbons that are crossed over at a point around 160 and the woofers nearer 200 so that the 4 12" woofers will "augment" the ribbons below 100? That requires some pretty complex equalization of the bass frequencies. I don't think the standard Rane or Ashley is going to make the nut.

Any helpful suggestions or ideas will be gratefully appreciated!

In the meantime I have the two Sunfires smokin' with one channel of each driving each the two speakers--which ain't bi-ampin' but it's already blown me away. Never heard anything even close to this good. After about 24 hours playtime they suddenly broke in with an almost audible pop--and it hit a new dimension altogether. Out of this world!

At present I am just using one channel of each Sunfire to drive each speaker. It's not bi-amping, but each speaker is receiving the full 300 watts with the power supply which normally drives two channels driving just the one whcih gives it a bit more headroom than if I used just one amp for both channels.

What I will do once I rewire the speakers will be to use one amp vertically for each channel. Basically, I will connect the preamp to each signfire unbalanced with the highs (ribbons) receiving the Current outputs of the left channel and the woofers (through the active crossover) receiving the voltage outputs of the right channel. I then will do the same for the right channel with the other Sunfire.

Traditional biamping would have one unit drive the highs and the other the low signals. By having each amp drive both the high and low signal of one channel you get the same benefits of traditional biamping, but the amp sees both sets of drivers and therefore is more stable. The ribbons get the high current and the woofs get the high voltage. Perfect!

I have an old Audio Control x-over that I'll try unbalanced vertically and a Rane AC23B balanced x-over that I'll try using the Sunfires in a traditional bi-amp configuration and see which is best. I also will try my Ciounterpoint Natural Progression mono blocks on the ribbons and a trusty Sony TA N80ES on the botytom and see if that works better than the dual Sunfires. I also might try the Counterpoints with pone of the Sunfires on the bottom tocover all the bases. Then I'll sell the gear that doesn't make the cut.