Tube amps and speaker ohms


In your opinion , do push pull amps work better with 8 ohms or 4 ohms. .I am under the impression the lower the ohms, the more power is demanded from the amp....Another question, are there low powered SET amps ,and high power SET amps?
I'm looking at a 40 watt 845 tube amp for my 8 ohm, 89 db speaker.. just cked the Thor has a 86 db W18 midwoofers(2 per cabinet) and a 88 db tweeter. Will an 845 amp rated 40 watts be able to drive the 86/88 db speaker? With authority, bass, mids, highs, in dynamic sound stage? Synergy? Or poor match?
bartokfan
Divad, You didn't ask, but what the hell.....

If you want powerful bass stay with an amp that is designed around the 6550/KT88/KT90. EL34's are potentially great mid-range tubes but lack the bass of one of these power tubes. In my systems the KT88 has more 'color' (as does the EL34) than the 6550 or the KT90. It reminds me, somewhat of an EL34 with balls.

In your place I would start with an amp designed around the KT88. There are a lot of different brands with different tone available for substituting in KT88's, most new production are quite good.

Re Chinese tube amps (I've got three) be mindful of a couple of things which can be important. Support is #1! If you're not a techie type and can't maintain and fix things yourself, get something which can be serviced without a return to China.

Also, one of the things that some Chinese amps are starting to appear with are on-deck bias meters and bias pots for each tube. Highly recommended feature! Allows you to easily maintain proper bias, follow tube wear, and replace or substitue tubes. Auto bias curcuits are also good for new tube amp users, but IMHO, in the long run manual bias with post for each tube are far more beneficial to the user.

Also, some Chinese amps are now coming with fuses that protect the bias curcuit in case of a tube short. Very important unless you can solder in new resistors. The sonic compromise by having a fuse is, IMHO, minimal if any for most folks.

Hope that helps you a bit.
Thanks for the advice. The Yaqin MC100B that I was looking at has 4 x KT88's and adjustable bias for each tube - access via marked holes in the top plate. I'm not frightened to get into the techie stuff so that appeals to me. A screwdriver and multimeter job, I guess?

Think I'll take a gamble on this one. Can probbaly get hold of one for approx £400 and if I get on with it then I can look to upgrade to something more classy.
Great vintage monoblocks if you can find them. The put out 100 w/ch and weigh about 45 lbs each. The irons are monstrous, but they sound increadible with low efficiency/low impediance speakers.
I think the point Newbee made about the EL34 versus KT88/6550/KT90 is something that REALLY needs to be lauded. EXCELLENT POINT!!!

The EL34 is a tube that is going to be in many of these amplifiers. And, while it is my favorite of the traditional push-pull amplifier tubes, it does has its shortcomings. As Newbee pointed out, you are going to give up those low frequencies (and overall power) in exchange for those wonderful mids. Please be aware of this.

Another tube to consider is the KT77 made by JJ. VERY powerful bass, and good power overall. You still don't match those EL34 mids. Consider it a great tube slotting between the EL34 and the KT88. In more than a few amps, we actually heard MORE emphatic bass with the KT77 than the bigger tubes, combined with some seriously better midrange.
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