TT setup woes


I am having some difficulties in setting up a new (for me) analogue front end (Nottingham Hyperspace TT, OL Illustrious arm, Shelter 90X cart.). Intially I set the VTF to 1.9g; dialed in the overhang with DB protractor; and set the anti-skating bias at what the mft. of the arm said was a good starting point. The VTA looked and sounded a little off; but since the arm was as low as I could set it and it would be a week before I could get the collett machined so I could set the arm lower, I went ahead and tried it. It sounded wonderful. I listened to records all weekend. It tracked everything I played. Floated images out in space like I had never heard. Here's the problem. The next week I had another 0.100" machined off the outside of the collett. In my hurry to set the arm back up, I didn't notice that the wire cradle that holds the anti-skating bias bob weight had moved. The result was too much compensation. This was made apparent by the bad break-up, misstracking in the left channel on the inner tracks of one of my favorite albums. The anti-skating problem was corrected, but the buzzing on the albums played while it was off is still there. Records not played when there was a problem, seem to do OK. Also, the damaged (?) LPs seem to play OK on my old rig (MMF7, Clearaudio Vert. Wood). Both cart. have elliptical stylis. The sound now seems to be less satisfying. Female vocals have a slightly glazed or metalic sound to them and the imaging is not quite what I remember from my first sessions. How much of this is psychological due to my hearing it break-up; are the LPs in question damaged or is it still having problems with the TT setup; I don't know. Any help or suggetions will be appreciated. -JT
john_tracy

Showing 3 responses by 4yanx

John, because I have some experience with the 'Not/Illustrious combination (you of all folks knowing why), I will probably mention some things that you have already done but that others might find useful. I would first suspect the azimuth as Tom has mentioned. Check the arm pod of the Hyperspace first to ensure that it is plumb and level with the platter plinth. Next, make sure that the collet ring is seated "plumb" such that the arm pillar is perpendicular to the platter. After these are successfully accomplished, check the azimuth (with a small spirit level on top of the headshell is possible). The Illustrious CAN be adjusted for azimuth by CAREFULLY loosening the hex nut located behind the headshell, CAREFULLY rotating the headshell, and the CAREFULLY re-tightening the nut. I am told that the re-tightening is most crucial so as not to collapse the arm tube.

The wire cradle for the anti-skate "bob" (according to OL) should be at approximately the angle as shown on the template provided. HOWEVER, there are many who believe that this cradle is best set to be perpendicular to the arm when the cartridge is positioned at the outer edge of a record. Too, the cradle is held with a tiny hex screw and it can get out of vertical - loosen the hex nut and make sure that the wire is fully seated in its "hole".

Here’s to hoping that you get back to your original sound. Oh, one last thing. Make sure that you tighten the two grub screws on the collar JUST tight enough to keep the arm from falling. Otherwise, if one is tightened more than the other it can throw of the pillar and put it out of “perpendicularity”! :-)
Hmmm, I have also heard others, in addition to Doug, comment that their 901 was sensitive to VTA. My 501 is far less picky about VTA than it is about VTF. Others have shared with me similar experience regarding the 501. No clue about the 90X, though.
John - I am distressed that you are having such difficulties with the Illustrious/Hyperspace combo. On my Spacedeck w/Mat 1 the VTA was a snap. (maybe try a thicker mat of some sort to see how it changes things). Have you considered contacting 'Not with respect to the issue? Hard to imagine there would be that much difference in pods. Know you probably don't want to spend more for a different pod - but maybe they'd have suggestions. It just doesn't seem right.

Yes, the two grub screws make a difference with respect to tightening. JUST enough to hold in place and equal if possible. I spoke to Tom Fletcher once and he told me, and has told others, that all "bits" on the 'Nots should be just snugged so that if all were loosened just a tad, the table would fall apart. I went through and followed this advice and things opened up tremendously when compared to when I had everything cinched down pretty firm.