I tried "12 and still love it, almost on any plinth the bigger gap between a turntable drive and a tonearm tower looks better :)) First "12 inch in my arsenal was Thomas Schick, second is Reed 3p , and the last purchase was Victor UA-7082. Personally (if i could) i would like to have all my arms in 12 inch version, but this is just aesthetics. Practically a '9 inch or 10'5 are great too, but a short arms sometimes too close to the platter and almost impossible to mount on several turtables like Technics SP-10, SP-20 series. Some popular long versions are just too expensive like FR66 for example. A '10.5 inch like EPA-100 mkII is probably ideal in this situation, glad to have one. |
Victor UA-7082 is probably the best long arm you can buy for the lowest price ever compared to many others (if you can find a perfect sample), it’s cheaper than Schick and better than Jelco!
But the Victor TT-101 must be avoided if you don’t know a person who can repair it, it is expensive service and this turntable is full of bugs just because it’s too old and back then it was way ahead of its time. Not recommended for amateurs.
Look for Denon DP-80, Luxman PD-441 or 444, and Technics SP-10 mkII. They are fine! |
@totem395 So you think it's better not to tell him anything about the obvious problem with the arm counterweight when i see it ?
I'm just trying to help!
We do not celebrate Christmas at all, sorry
But i hope you're well and Mary Christmas
He did not even get the package yet.
Anything purchased on ebay can be returned with shipping compensation from paypal, every buyer on ebay is protected 100%. This tonearm is in junk condition, they are $150 in japan in this condition with broken counterweight. The seller can compensate or accept return or offer partial refund. My advice, actually.
Or it must be fixed by OP, the rubber part must be replaced.
P.S. Finding a perfect sample of UA-7045 is not easy and they're cost much more than the whole turntable he has bought (if the arm is NOS). A perfect used sample of this arm normally goes for $700+ on ebay.
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Chakster, the TT101 is not above criticism, but your statement that it’s “too old” is ridiculous, especially coming from you, and especially since the alternatives you name are about the same vintage. Each of those other TTs you name has its own Achilles heel as far as repairs are concerned. I meant only the expensive repair even to make it work, not everyone can pay $1000 or EUR 1000 + shipping just for the service to get TT-101 back to work, this is it. I paid less for all my turntables and they does not require service at all, they are all fine, paid $1200 for MINT SP-10 mkII and never ever serviced this original. Everyone can read the dedicated thread about Victor TT-101 Repair to understand how difficult it can be, especially for those who are not in NYC, and even your own experience can prove it. I am happy that one of my TT-101 is working, but another one is not. The reason why i mentioned SP-10mkII, Denon DP-80 or Luxman PD-444 is because it’s very easy to find a MINT condition working sample, and even minor repair does not cost even close to the cost of TT-101 repair ($1k). TT-101 is not for the amateurs to mess around with it. |
Chakster
I do agree with the sentiments of cost of repair for the 101.
Part of the reason I went with a 81.
And a 71 but that’s another story. Sure with shipping cost the repair is about $1400 for me, that's crazy. TT-81 is step down and i'm pretty sure will be easily beaten by Denon DP-80 However I feel a good working 101 is likely near the Pinnacle of vintage DD table charts and if money was no object or concern I think I would pursue one. Only if you have a warranty after repair is done, because if the problem will show up again then you're broke. BTW, the plinth on the 81 of mine and the the one the OP has bought is massive and very solid weighing in at about 40lb on its own and is a multiple layer construction. Will be hard to beat that plinth.
Denon DK-300 plinth is the same quality of even better, at least better finishing and a bit better shape in my opinion. Highly recommended. They made version for two arms too. I think Denon DP-80 is highly competitive to those Victor top of the line turntables. But i like my Victor TT-101, not decided on plinth yet, too many turntables, i can open a little museum here. |
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VICTOR-CL-P2-TT-81-UA-7082-set-AC100V-Free-Shipping-d506/264532995172
Elliott Too fast. You bought the arm with dead rubber grommet that does not support the counterweight properly, you will have to replace it, the counterweight sag down too much, this is a typical problem for a cheap UA-7045 samples (with this problem they are normally sells as a junk). Look at the picture in the listing with a side view. When you will move the counterweight away from the arm tower the problem will be increased to much higher degree. This is junk, find someone who can replace the rubber part. I’ve seen many samples of UA-7045 tonearms, now i have 7082, all my samples are perfect, if you want to see what is perfect then look at the original arm (not a repaired one) and compare to yours which is almost fell off. Someone might tell you it’s normal to have a certain degree down at the counterweight part, but it’s not! I’m referring to the NOS (never used) sample and the arm pipe is just straight behind the arm tower, no matter where is the counterweight, also even if the additional subweight is address the counterweight part is just straight. My advice is to put that Shure to the recycle bin and look for a decent Victor X-1IIe or X-1II cartridges for this arm. It will be a killer setup, i know it because i have many. |
JVC factory sheet shows the original was never straight
https://audio-heritage.jp/VICTOR/etc/ua-7082.html
looking closely at your new example, it is not perfectly straight Not sure what do you mean, but i’m talking about straight line of the tube inside the counterweight behind the arm tower. LOOK HERE on the NOS sample. Now look at your sample (do you think it’s normal?). The seller screwed the counterweight to the armtower with no gap in between, in reality is will never be so close when you will balance your cartridge with the right tracking force (depends on the cart weight with headshell, especially MC). When you will move the counterweight away from the arm tower then it will almost fell off. I know what i’m talking about, i had at least 4 different samples of this tonearm on hands. It depends on the condition of the rubber, but when the arm was NEW it was absolutely in line with the armtube, no matter what you can find online, i had a NOS unused sample sealed in the box (not only various used samples). People who think it’s normal may never had more than one sample (i had 3 perfect sample and 1 bad). |
Just a final comment on the droop seen on many 7082 and 7045 arms.
The only way I believe you will ever see one of these with zero droop is from a nos example that has lived in its sealed box all of its life.
Many reasons for the droop to exist on used examples.
Not really, the NOS are normally very expensive compared to gently used samples, just like everything in audio. I've seen only a few NOS samples in 5 years or so, i bought one of them, it was 7045, sold it when i bought long 7082 (used). My 7082 does not have any problem with rubber grommet, but it's original, everything is clean like new. Regarding the used 7045 only 1 out of 3 wasn't perfect. So it's possible to find a perfect used sample, nice and clean. Another problem is oil in armlift, but the whole armlift can be replaced with new jelco armlift. The problem is that most people selling junk on ebay, i prefer to buy everything from a perfectionists like myself. |
Do you not see a slight sag in the CW, even for your pristine example? I do.
We can look at another image from the internet: a perfect tonearm and a broken sample Anything in between is SAG at different degree, but clearly visible from the first fast look on it. |
For options, I found and bought the optional extra counterweight, fits either 7082 or 7045
https://www.ebay.com/itm/193237660632
Yes, this is what you need for heavier MC carts or heavier headshells on your UA-7082 |
12-inch tonearm made of cocobolo must have very high effective mass. Fine for low compliance cartridges. Not so fine for high compliance ones. There is no single best length or best material for a tonearm. @lewm 18g, since there is no detachable "headshell" on my version of Reed 3p we can only add the mass of the cartridge and screws. So when you mount an MM on your Fidelity-Research FR-64s the "problem" is much more serious than with Reed Cocobolo. I think the mass of FR 64s is twice as much. However, you reported a good results with MM, i also can say that 18g Reed was superb with mid compliance MM cartridges (Garrott p77, Victor X-1 and X-1II, Glanz 61, AT-ML180 etc). I bought my Reed especially for ZYX Premium 4D SB2 when i sold my EPA-100 about 5 years ago, but everything turned up not as i expected, so i ended up using different cartridges on Reed arm. I remember i was happy with Garrott P77. |
If you want to see it just like a re-tipper can see it then you need a USB microscope. But i'm fine with macro lens for iPhone when i'm taking pictures of my cartridges, here is the one with unused stylus (NOS FR PMC-3) |
Probably the seller have no idea how to pack for international transit. Everything must have been disassembled, turntable must have been wrapped, the best way is to use macroflex spray between the box and the wrapped turntable, this is the best way to protect everything, this macroflex liquid foam (when it's frozen) hold the turntable tightly, so it does not move in the box at all, great protection even for a far longer transit than Canada to USA.
Make claim with paypal, open the case on paypal for this transaction, send it back for full refund, paypal will cover return shipping, this is buyers protection.
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