It is pure nonsense but if you pay me enough I will buy one and cook your stuff for you and charge accordingly. Since you want to waste money on spurious things why not send it to me?
Being serious here for a moment. What makes you think this is even a real thing to do except reviews from high end audio sales people or columnists with conflicts of interest who get rewarded for kind words about silly things? I swear there is more snake oil in audio cables than any other aspect of audio. True Golden Ear 1% nonsense.
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You know, there’s such as thing as being overly skeptical. There’s also fake skepticism. Thanks for being serious. 🤡
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Not quite sure what this implies but the skepticism is not fake. I for the life of me can't understand the pursuit of fallacies with large amounts of money on items that would never pass a true blind test.
I suppose a set of those nice beeswax impregnated fuses would do nicely and then a new super duper power cord and then new house wiring and outlet boxes and of course a true balanced output generator isolated from the utility power grid since you can't replace the signal degrading conductors from the power plant to the house.
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Fake concern on your part. Fake skepticism, too. The sarcasm appears to be real, however. No offense to you personally.
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Well you got me on the concern part as I don't have any. What I do have is a fascination for the comic theater of the absurd audio presents at times as otherwise normal people go off the rails. Skepticism is real too as things that can't be proven except by opinions has no value to me and you bet the sarcasm is real. No offense taken by the way.
Later this month I am going to a teaching session by the chief engineer for Klipsch Speakers. Day one is "Why Paul Klipsch did what he did" and day two is "Why Roy Delgado does what he does". Roy is the guy behind some fabulous equipment and best in class cinema all horn systems which sound terrific no matter where you use them. These are the kinds of people to listen too as far as I am concerned and he has no time for snake oil like cable burners.
But still I get fascinated with the power of advertising and the thought there is a sucker born every minute. People actually believe this stuff and so just like car wrecks I look as I drive by.
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Just send me all your cables and $500 and I'll bathe them in himalayan
salt, freeze them to -10c during the next full moon and send them back.
Guaranteed to give you your money's worth.
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NO wait, send them to me and I will do that and send them back in an embossed gold lame box. For an extra $500 I will personalize your gold lame box with your name and date of birth of your super audio conductors!!!
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The cable cooker will not work with MIT network boxes. The network box
does not allow for the signal to properly flow through the cables. I
know this because I have had this problem with MIT cables.
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You mean to tell me that a 60G + cable thingy can't be cooked? I find that VERY disturbing that it would be impossible to create a mono crystal conductor.
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geoffkait: I'm wondering: Once I install the speaker cable, have I now
made it directional for future use? Do I need to tag the direction of
connection ( like my interconnects are labelled directionally)?
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I think your cable cooker, you do have one don't you, can adjust for this. Read your cooker manual and they will no doubt have directions on how to re-align your directional audio cable.
You guys have me wondering if I should get my 14g zip cord transformed into a correctly aligned directional mono crystal audio super conductor so I can hear the full liquid fidelity of superb tonal neutral corrected sound burbling out of my speakers.
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Are you ever going to tell us why wire is directional?
Is it because electrons can be polarized?
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All wire used in audio is directional. From the outlet to the audio file source. From there to the amp or dac or whatever and from there to the speakers. Some may have many devices in the stream but they only work one way and the wires are self aligning to the devices and if nothing works you have the wrong sequence of devices hooked up. Sarc off.
OP it is hard to tell if someone is really looking for information, or just looking for validation of a poor choice they want to make or have made that does nothing but cost lots of money like cable cookers. Research what engineers have to say and level headed audio guys who demand proof of concept in ways that can be independently verified. The high and audio market is full of things meant to part people from their money and give scant rewards for the dollars spent in exchange. What causes ridicule and sarcasm is the number of people who believe this stuff while being unable to prove its worth and then angrily defending their bad choice. The ultimate rebuttals typically are you don't have trained or acute hearing ability (the fabled golden ears). You are just jealous because you can't afford what I can. My favorite is just because you cant measure it means nothing because I can hear it. How can that be since if there is a difference it must be quantifiable therefore measurable. There is a placebo effect though that does say I spent gobs of cash and therefore it must be better and gosh, I think I can hear it now.
Cable cookers do not work and will never work and there is no one that can prove they do work. Buy any measuring tool you want and do a before and after and get back to me on what you find after you get a cable cooked and I think I know what you will say.
Get a UMike and learn to use it with Room Equalizer Wizard, a free program and you can begin to learn to actually measure what your equipment is producing and how sound reacts to your room. You will be able to measure every REAL change and also measure and discover there are a ton of expensive things that do nothing.
I would also recommend you go to forums like DIY where very serious and knowledgeable people who understand the electronics of audio and in many cases are also builders with hands on experience can tell you what does and does not work. Don't be a sucker for slick promotional $$$ dollar extraction machines. Become an informed buyer.
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f. your music plays backwards
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Send it off to both of them. Each cooker will be slightly different and you need to make sure your cables are fully baked. Then send it through again to remove any residual unbaked areas. If it does not sound right keep doing so until it does. Since it might wear off go ahead and do this with two sets so you always have a good one in reserve. Also don't let this get around any magnetic fields or you might have to do it all over again. Make sure to hook it up in the right direction to or else you might have to send it back and get it redone again. Do not install or use around any heating or cooling vents as your AC might harm the cook job. Make sure you do not accept your cables unless they were certifiably delivered and transported in temperatures above 60 degrees because cold can harm the cook job. Make sure your Microwave is not running if you move these through your kitchen as the MW resonance frequencies can harm the cook job.
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One more day in the frig as the dwell down continues... Tomorrow
afternoon the wires (and short jumper lengths I made) will come out and
lie around in the stereo room, resting (like the recommendation for oven
roasted meat) for a couple of days before they go back into the system.
geoffkait:
will the treated wires need a break-in period again? if so, how long do
you recommend? I am presently running another identical set - so should
I Immediately hear a difference once I swap them in?
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Love your sense of humor! Frig is priceless.
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You are welcome and I expect it will be both informative and fun.
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How much is Klipsch paying you to go to this school?
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What this is is a way for the Klipsch Museum in Hope to raise money. The Klipsch museum is run by volunteers and is self supporting through memberships and special events. Roy Delgado current chief Klipsch engineer who learned much from Paul Klipsch and worked with him for years agreed to teach up to 50 people for two days and the money goes to the museum. Roy does not do this often with the last time being some years ago around when the Jubilees got released. So in a nutshell I pay them to go and get to support the museum and learn from one of the true masters of Audio. Plus it is a gathering of serious hands on people so they also share knowledge. Every attendee on the list so far has serious cinema gear for their home theaters or builds speakers or both and every name on the list I know does build. This is of particular interest to me since I currently manufacture a set of machined aluminum replacement tweeter lenses for two types of Klipsch speaker tweeters and I am working on my first complete speaker build with the intent to sell them also.
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As a side topic, I would love to hear a well set-up Klipsch LaScala or
Klipschorn (or maybe better yet a restored/upgraded Altec VOTT or
similar) played through a nice medium-powered tube amplifier. I believe
I may have taken the wrong path 20 years ago by not starting out with a
pair of high efficiency Klipsch speakers. The whole amplifier thing
would have been so much easier by not needing high power and I suspect
the dynamics and life-like realism of live music would have been easier
to approximate in my home. I am currently having a pair of SOTA 600 wpc
+/- amps built for me so I am too far down the road to switch to horns
now, but if I were starting over.....
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Klipsch is very efficient. I think the very lowest of the older Vintage gear, which is all I fool around with, is the Forte at 98db and then Cornwalls at 98.5 db with Chorus next at 101db with the La Scala and the KHorn at 105db. I have run a set of MCM 1900's that had a passive crossover with one 200 watt per channel amp and never turned it all the way up.
One of the nice things about Klipsch is the size of the community and if you search you will find someone not to far away who will let you listen to their system. The Klipsch forum is a good place to start asking for nearby owners and obviously I think Klispch is the best bang for the buck at the very least and in the better pro gear simply the best all the way around.
I have three Altec A-7's in my shop right now being restored and they are the only ones besides Klipsch I will fool with. Very mellow sounding and require little power but not quite as life like as Klipsch and if you like to hear and feel percussion Klipsch is the right choice. Classical and Jazz and acoustic are really nice on Altecs.
It is never to late to try Klipsch and there are generally some for sale near where ever you are fairly often. They won't last long unless very overpriced and the bonus is a huge dedicated group of current owners who will help you restore and upgrade things like crossover capacitors. You can get replacement drivers and parts for speakers 50 and 60 years old no problem and they sound really good. Not one other speaker company can claim this except perhaps the Altec Lansing JBL group. All this expensive stuff you read about like Wilson and the rest are here today and gone tomorrow and none have the longevity of Klipsch and the huge market of good used and upgrade new parts that Klipsch does.
I didn't intend to become a Klipsch "nut" when I first started looking into audio but I did become one when I saw what I could get for my money and have never regretted it.
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Say insearchofprat here is something for you to think about. Great satire by the way whether intentional or accidental. You do know you have to keep from having any dips in elevation in your cables don't you? Electrons can puddle there in the dips and it can cause a popping noise when you first power up your amp. This is because the puddled electrons join the inrush of new ones and cause a temporary surge of power you will hear as a pop in your speakers. If you have a gentle slope from the amp down to the speakers with no sags anywhere all the electrons will drain off into the speaker each time you shut down and this will eliminate the pops. I also recommend rare earth heavy metal conductors as there is less space between atoms for the electrons to puddle up in so it will reduce pops even if you have dips.
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I never turn my integrated or my CD off: they are either in rest mode or playing music...
Taking your other comments with a critical eye.
I think I'm gonna let the electrons do whatever they do...
But I am unafraid to try uncommon materials and methods:
Maybe
sound is affected - just by my interior design 'intuition' of having
several different types and sizes of crystals on the integrated amp,
specifically (logistically?) placed above the power cord connection, and
above the CD drawer... Or Maybe its my use of tennis bàlls in Tropicana
Yellow Plastic Bottle Tops, for isolation with rubber and particleboard
2" squares below each equipment foot, on top of 2" Pink Insulation Foam
Board. Speakers with the same isolation... My friend ( with the
spectacular custom Italian speakers, All Naim electronics,
top-of-the-line Luna cables, space-age-looking 200 lb turntable and
rock-solid custom equipment table/rack = about a $400,000+ system)
laughs at my puny wacko music maker - but it makes me happy. AND THAT TO
ME IS WHAT IT'S ALL ABOUT!
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I think your real name is Jeff Medwin. However on to your reality. You do know all that stuff does not work right unless you have the same day of production on the plastic bottle tops. Cosmic rays vary each day and this effects plastic while being molded so you need to date align them so they will be cosmic ray aligned for your system. Also the tennis balls need to be the same type and manufacturer and come from the same lot number to be consistent.
Have you tried concrete pavers on your speaker tops yet? It really dampens down erratic sonics emission from your speakers and will smooth out all the little jagged edges your sound has from cabinet resonance.
You don't happen to have any pictures of your setup anywhere do you? I would love t see your work!!
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No Mahlman is contributing utter nonsense BS to utter nonsense BS and having fun doing so. It is written theater of the absurd and sometimes I just can't help myself.
Hey, I mean HEY WHAT DO YOU THINK OF THE VIBRATION ISOLATION STUFF HMMMM?
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Thanks for the chuckles! - you had me laughing line by line...
" I know you have a serious concern for performance so I thought I would mention some things for you to try. Cooking your cable is important and in order to keep it up to top sonic condition you have to use heat tape on your conductor. I recommend you get one of those plastic wire looms to use for this. Now a word of caution. Use the black plastic ones only because they have a carbon content in them that produces better linear alignment with the electron flow in the conductor. You know how people talk about fast sounds? It is more than what your speaker cone is made of or horn VS direct radiator. The carbon content wire loom + heat tape and the cable will allow your signal to go much faster and this leads to really snappy drum solos. There is an environmental aspect to this too as your use of carbon content plastic acts not only to improve electronic efficiency it acts as a mini carbon heat sink by containing that bad carbon in a place where the environment won't be effected anymore. Have you ever tried golf balls and electrical tape rolls to isolate your speakers and amps from vibrations? There is a first rate research scientist I have no doubt you could relate to here with his system.
https://www.audioasylum.com/cgi/vt.mpl?f=hug&m=182196
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" Although I have a plethora of defrosted food from the freezer I need to use " Hey you are just the guy I need to speak to. I have a bunch of hot sauce in the freezer and I was wondering is it still hot when frozen or do I need to thaw it out for it to be hot? If it is still hot while in the freezer can I heat treat and freeze cables at the same time and accomplish both steps at once?
I think frig is a great word choice for this thread.
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will try to use 'Refrig' or 'Freezer' or 'Icebox' in an attempt to keep minds on topic
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When in the middle of refrig I never have trouble keeping my mind on the topic. Refrig is fine as long as it follows frig
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insearchofprat when are you going to change your name to ifoundprat? (many of them it seems) It's friggin amazing I say. By the way I found a cooker at Costco I think will work but I have a question. Should I use peanut or sunflower oil? I figure a light all natural oil will help the transients be much better and allow for a much more transparent sound signal. I figure lard might end up hogging to much of the signal.
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