Tonearm ...... Acos Lustre GST-801 ..... Yea/Nay

rauliruegas

great find, much thanks.

ok now, everyone stay away from this one, I just made the seller an offer!!!

Buyer accepted my offer, my dual arm project is coming together very nicely.

Now, which MONO Cartridge for that arm?

I prefer the higher output of Grado ME+. elliptical
5.0mV, weighs 5.5g, compliance ______ ???

https://gradolabs.com/cartridges/prestige-series-specialty-cartridges/item/79-mono-phono

Compliance for this Lustre 801 arm?

Joe Grado confirmed ME+’s compliance (he didn’t specify) would be ok with JVC 9-5/8" arm UA-7045. I just wrote and asked him if ME+ compatible with the Lustre 801.

other choice

Ortofon 2 Mono SE, shibata
3.5mv, weighs 7.2g, Compliance, dynamic, lateral - 22 µm/mN

https://www.ortofon.com/2m-mono-se-p-597-n-1579


IF I buy that Ortofon, probably have to send the preamp to McIntosh sooner than later.
...............................

I need to find some more money hiding under a rock. Maybe I will put a note to myself: "Only entitled to 1 pair of socks when I turn 75 in a few years"!

rauliruegas9

Testing my skills, especially anti-skating.

I ran test records today,

Stereophile LP ..., Shure V15 torture test LP, ... Denon Demo LP...... I skipped my 4th, whatever it is, it's downstairs.

Anti-Skating test matched my TT dial (I don't trust them) and my ears, that was nice. I'm looking forward to the GST-801's Magnetic force controls.

My Shure 97xe on Audio Technica AT120 arm only hinted at a speck of resonance at 11hz. Tested it with Dynamic Stabilizer in and out, no apparent difference.

Tomorrow I will test the AT440ml, no brush, see how it does.

Joe Grado says OK for his Mono Cartridge ME+ with both JVC UA-7045 arm and Acos Lustre GST-801.

"it should work just fine
the compliance of the ME+ is 20cu"

http://www.resfreq.com/resonancecalculator.html 

......................
how do you compute from 20cu to _____ mu/mN???

Happy New Year Everyone, and thanks again for all your help with this exciting project. 

I will ask Grado what frequency.

I just tested my old AT440ml cartridge. It's wonderful on clean records, toooo noisy on used ones I acquired along the way. 

Maybe I should buy a shibata stylus for my Shure V15Vmx, it has the brush which helps with static, probably why my 97xe with brush is quieter on older LPs.  I'm guessing any Shibata will be the same, wonderful or too noisy.

But first I need to see how these cartridges pass the resonance test with either of my new arms that are coming.

With a digital stylus force guage, rather than Shure's see-saw, it is easy to change head-shells and reset things, and this TT's dinky anti-skate turns out to be accurate.

using these 3 guitars to help evaluate sound, and anti-skate imaging results as well as test records.

https://www.johnmclaughlin.com/1981/09/friday-night-in-san-francisco-1981/

This one is awesome also

https://www.johnmclaughlin.com/1996/09/the-guitar-trio-1996/

As always, go from CD to LP, people choose the LP. Go from SS to tubes, people choose the tubes.

Ortofon chart, for 20uN/mm:

total mass range 9-25g, ideal around 13g if I read the curve right.

Who knows the Mass of JVC-UA-7082 Arm _____?

Mass of Acos Lustre GST-801 Arm _____?

found tonearm database

http://www.edsstuff.org/docs/tonearm_specifications.htm

mass of my 2 arms is not there, still looking for their mass ___?
........................

interesting how the null points vary for each arm, I've been using my Shure V15VxMR null template for all my +/- 9" arms. 

I just got this as a gift for Christmas, it has a grid to use that will help get any arm right

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PH37HWP/ref=sspa_dk_hqp_detail_aax_0?spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVTQzSDhOUThNS0EyJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjY1MDI1OVdUU0MzS0k5V1ZRJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA5OTI2MjcyNTBJWEI0TkkwNzZBJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfaHFwX3NoYXJlZCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1

it's the thickness of a record which is nice when adjusting

Your right,

This morning I ordered a Jico Shibata for my Shure V15VxMR to get it going again. I've been mad at it due to the brittleness of the stylus I broke years ago. This one is boron, caution will be exercised.

As a test I cleaned a really dirty noisy record last evening, waited till properly dry, it was surprisingly noise free with the AT440ml, I just need to play something in good shape while a really dirty one is drying. 

So I will have those two: Shure shibata with brush, AT microline no brush. Both track 1.25g

Now: UA-7082 arm that is coming: keep Z1S, put a shibata in it, or, new victor cartridge with new shibata?

One of my test records has all the resonance test bands.

rauliruegas

I did see and read your post, (and everyone's) thanks. You have been quite helpful as have others.  I clicked both links, they didn't go directly to something, I hopped around, searched, didn't work out.

This project grew and grew: from 1 longer arm, (presumably use existing cartridges), to big TT, dual arms, then, use one arm for Mono, rearrange the whole system, add new stable legs to the equipment rack, order a tempered glass shelf.

Then do a better job cleaning my dirty lps, add a safety lift, get a new stylus for my Shure cartridge, resurrect my AT440ml, probable stylus/cartridge change on the 7082 when it gets here (TT shipped today from Canada).

this is complicated stuff, there are 3 threads

1. 12" arm???

that thread got me to the large Plinth JVC and to two arms.

2. Compliance/Cartridge for new specific Long Arm JVC 7082? which I bought, and 7045? (which I presumed I would buy).

Along the way I learned the 7082 is kind of heavy for my existing cartridges, so I looked for a lighter arm, found the Acos.

I further learned there is a lot to learn.

3. Acos Lustre GST-801 Arm? Separate thread because people who know about it may not be involved with thread 1 or 2.

Thanks specifically to you finding the one I bought, I got a better, more complete arm and better price.
...............

And, mixed in, which new MONO cartridge? use existing cartridges? new stylus for existing, new stylus for included JVC Z1S?

I am still a novice about compliance and resonance, and 

I found a chart about 7 million arms, the mass of my 2 arms is not listed.

Holidays almost over, my research has been sporadic, people who own these arms know more, so I just got lazy and waited.
..........................................   

to recap, here's what I was confidently able to order after help in the 3 threads:

a. New to me Dual Arm Heavy Plinth JVC TT81 including long arm 7082 with Z1S cartridge, with Din Cable, with power transformer

b. New to me 9" GST-801 arm all parts present, din cable included

c. New Stylus for Shure V15VxMR body (learned about JICO here).

d. New Grado ME+ MONO Cartridge. Learned about 'real mono' here.

e. New full size alignment disc with info to locate any arm/align any cartridge, variations of null points.

f. New record bath with drying rack (drying easily was the missing link for me).

g. New tonearm safety raiser, didn't know they existed.

h. New digital tracking gauge, goodbye Shure See-Saw.

i. improved rack arrangement, new stability, new big glass shelf.
...........................

Just waiting to make final decision on Cartridge/Stylus for 7082 arm.

being a bargain hunter, with help here, all that: $2,500.

Let's not forget, agreeably cancelling the TT from Japan, finding one in Canada, having seller repair counterweight arm portion which I learned about here.

I'm real glad I joined this forum.

Elliott

You are a funny man, I learned that here

https://www.google.com/search?q=mae+west+peel+me+a+grape&rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS881US881&oq=mae+west+peel+me+a+grape&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l2.12943j1j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

gibsonian

I'm excited to have found it, and been given a link to one with all parts at a great price. It will arrive thursday. TT arrives tuesday, I'll try to take my time.

I'll check out the lift, let everyone know it's condition.

Co-incidentally, I have been practicing lowering by hand lately, reacquiring that ability, improving but not consistent yet.

lewm

Appearance and Function.

Audio rack supporting this is 23" deep x 47" wide, table height.

3 thick glass shelves, each floating on isolators on 3 bentwood frames, each 4" radius corners. I have a 6" high wood riser/base on top of the top glass shelf that supports my existing single arm TT at a nice working height in front of large picture window. Three audio pieces under that riser/base, just high enough to receive remote control beams.

R2R on separate wood cabinet to the left; Amp and Preamp on separate wood cabinet to the right, Integrated amp just high enough to receive remote beam. Windows behind those 3 stands. Speakers out from the corners either side.

The existing wood base for existing TT is only 16" deep. The dual arm plinth is 20" deep x 22-1/4" wide.
 

I ordered a 1/4" thick tempered glass shelf 39" w x 20" deep. A tray with heavy house plants goes on the new shelf left of the TT adding weight.

I know how I will add support under the rear edge if needed, but I will see how things stack up first with the glass cantilevered 4" in the back. TT81 weight is in the front, Plants are heavy.

New deeper base is easy if needed, but, for access to rear jacks, I will try leaving the 16" deep base

.............................

chakster

LOL, famous last words is right.

But after this big step up, I will coast happily for quite a while. Unless what I bought is defective, hopefully not.

I have to fix my friends TT. He has an awesome system. We listened to a new sealed vintage WAR album here, he loved it so much I sent it home with him. He was not happy with it there. He has a Technics 1200 I gave him years ago when I was using my Thorens/SME. He changed the cartridge to a Grado, set up by someone else, I think they did it wrong.

My new alignment disc, new acrylic block with 2mm grid, new digital tracking force guage, his microscope, level, my lifetime supply of screws, washers, shims, brushes ...

And I can bring my headshells to compare to his Grado after I align it for general comparison.

I am in love with the speed of the new digital force gauge, the old Shure see-saw one takes a long time.

uberwaltz

I try to chase less rabbits than many here do!!!

Probably because of this rabbit tale.

Age 16, travelling across USA with my friend, his relatives in New Mexico took us out to the desert to hunt Jack Rabbits.

I had low cut hiking shoes, and wore shorts, it was very hot. I noticed they had long pants on?

They gave me a long barreled pistol, I was a darn good shot, out of the truck we got. Walk slowly into the desert, dodging cactus.

Bingo, I spot a Jack Rabbit and start to give chase. Everybody starts yelling, NOOO, stop, don't chase him, don't go in there.

Oh no, I'm not losing to a rabbit, he dodges, I leap, .... he gets away.

I come back to the truck, they are all laughing, more than I thought they should, after all I never saw that kind of rabbit before, I'll figure out how they move and get one for sure.

I look down, my legs are bleeding, covered with Jumping Cactus, front, sides, rear, oh behind the knee was the worst. Turns out, you just disturb the ground where these spring loaded devils are lying, up they leap onto you. Then, the more you move, the deeper the barbs get in, especially the ones behind your knees. It was hours cutting and puling the barbs out of me.

'Tiptoe Thru the Tulips' and Jumping Cactus!

best-groove

Nope, I bought a sealed one this original pressing

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_World_Is_a_Ghetto

some very nice harmonies on it as well as their famous song.

stopped in tiny place on the way home, $4.99

I should probably buy a new version of this one.

Eric Burdon and WAR,

mine has been played and played and played some more.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Love_Is_All_Around_(album)

Arrived, Gorgeous, now I need to find a deck to put it on,

the TT81 with large plinth I bought arrived severely damaged yesterday.

I received and installed the 801 tonearm. All is terrific,

EXCEPT, the tonearm lifter is not working.

Nothing moves up when raising the lever. I know how to loosen the set screw to raise/lower the cylinder, but center post does not move.

Any ideas? 

thanks, Elliott 

Happily, I solved it. I really like this Acos Lustre GST-801 lift.

A suggestion on AudioKarma mentioned looking underneath, verifying a set screw was snug. That may be the problem for other's.

I found my problem, and suspect/hope it could be a common problem for others, as it is easily fixed.

1. Lever flexes a long thin strip of metal (visible when upside down). The end of the metal activates the rise/lower action when flexed by the lever.

2. The lift raises/lowers 'by itself' after you 'start' it, by moving the lever up or down. (IOW, once started, the action is not controlled by the lever, it's controlled by fluid moving). It starts up and continues to rise like a cake.

3. There is a small gap at the forward end of the metal strip below the cylinder. There is a small projecting rod on the bottom of the cylinder. The cylinder has to be rotated so that the pin moves out of sight, above the end of the flexible metal strip.

4. My cylinder had been rotated, the rod was in the gap, no metal strip below it, so, when the metal strip flexed, it did not contact the pin. I simply rotated the cylinder so that the pin moved out of sight, now above the metal strip. Fixed, but not height adjusted.

5. The top curved rail rotates, for proper positioning for the full sweep of the tonearm. The curved rail has it's own set screw. Loosen set screw, position (rotate) the curved rail for full arm sweep, tighten.

6. I think mine, and probably others, people loosen the cylinder set screw and rotate the cylinder to position the attached curved rail. Inadvertently moving the cylinder's lower pin to the gap where there is no contact with the flexible metal strip....................
...................................

My procedure:
First, get arm height, arm balance, general VTA angle set. Adjusting the height/clearance of the lift's top curved rail when down (below the tonearm when playing) is relative to the tonearm's downward angle.

1. loosen and lightly snug two set screws (cylinder and top curved rail) (so no real force needed when making final adjustment, avoiding one part moving the other).

2. loosen cylinder's set screw and rotate cylinder (view from bottom) so the pin is out of sight above the metal strip. slight tighten.
  
**** Note: never rotate the cylinder later when adjusting it's height, or positioning the top curved rail ****

3. loosen cylinder's set screw, make general height adjustment, slight tighten. To get the top curved rail close to the bottom of the tonearm prior to next step.

4. loosen top curved rail's set screw, rotate to position it for the full sweep of the tonearm, tighten. it's done.

5. final height of cylinder will need to be coordinated with arm height. adjust bit by bit, avoiding rotating it, to keep it's lower pin above the flexible metal strip.

Elliott

I have to send the long victor 7082 arm/tt back to seller for full refund, so this GST-801 is my main stereo arm. I love it.

Initial height adjustment/set screw was a PITA, but, now, VTA while playing is a dream, and it’s lift when working is wonderful. Impressive quality, very heavy/solid mounting ring.

Magnetic Tracking Force and Anti-Skate: When you turn anti-skate to OFF, it’s off, it just stops moving when aligning and setting tracking force.

It’s indicator of tracking force is very, very close to the digital scale measurements, and the anti-skate indicator seems right on, no further adjustment was needed when doing final listening using these 3 guitars on side 2, track 2 and 3. (3 guitars only those tracks)

https://www.google.com/search?q=friday+night+in+san+francisco&rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS881US881&sxsrf=ACYBGNRWtGXYIiLa1anbLNfpV8WIKxKBrw:1579751526671&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=FYnBqYrNxZ2acM%253A%252CMtTWRSsX8qs8LM%252C%252Fm%252F01pmn5x&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kTMOhE8AhRucmhPF9RS6WKh5uHiRQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi2iNKE6ZjnAhWhVt8KHQkkAUYQ_B0wFHoECAoQAw#imgrc=FYnBqYrNxZ2acM: